Reviving out of service pool: FG & deck Refresh

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I will leave the equipment stuff alone for smarter people than myself.

dianedebuda said:
Still scooping away. Imagination can run wild seeing bubbles arise when I'm bringing up muck from the depth. Creature from the Black Lagoon not sighted yet though. :D
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LOL We had one we were VERY worried about such a thing!! It was a FULL pond with turtles, frogs, cattails and all kinds of pond plants!!
 
Your situation is a little different than a normal spa setup. The majority of spas have their own pump and utilize a heater. I'd have to take some time and comprehend the whole setup. The problem is you don't want full VS flow going through the panels for long periods. A solution is to install stops in the valve limiting the closure and allowing partial bypass but it would also do so when not using jets so not great solution. I'll look in the Hayward book for what groups can do on powered valves and how many theres prob a way to do like you wanted. Not sure on pentair I have limited experience with their automation
 
Found the AquaPlus Group info. Looks like it's only available with the AquaPlus 16 and the ProLogic PS units. From what I can tell, looks like it would do what I want - a single button to control the Jets and all of its dependancies.
--set Jets/Return valve
--set Solar Flow valve
--set pump speed
--change SWG level
--turn on blower

If I run an AquaPlus in a pool-only configuration, are the "Spa" actuator controls available as general purpose?

Since finding the Hayward Group, feeling more that what I'd interpreted for the Intellicenter Group is correct, but sure wish a Pentair affectionado would confirm.

Thinking the Pentair Quad DE filter might be our best choice. Internally configured as cartridges rather than grid "leaves" like our old filter and the current Hayward one. Saw a video where the presenter said these are much lighter when dirty compared to a true cartridge filter (dirty) element. Next step is size. On our old DE filter, tank measures 21-1/2", so guessing grids are 18" which means it was 36 sq ft max. Never had a problem with that filter keeping the pool clean. Smallest Quad DE unit is 60 (assuming 60 means 60 sq ft), so that looks promising. Thoughts?

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A heart-felt Thank You to the creators of Tylenol... :LOL:
 
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The next dozen posts may be a little confusing. I'd started a new thread in Pumps about repurposing a cleaner line as a water filler since I thought the topic might not be unique to me. Mods decided to combine the threads, so there's a mix now of replies to this original thread and the water filler thread. Wouldn't want a mod's job trying to keep things organized. :LOL:

From water filler thread:
Going to abandon Polaris cleaner. Thinking about using that pipe as a water filler line by connecting irrigation valve with check value. Any problems with that?
 
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Doubt there'd be enough suction and it'd be so easy to clog since removal is completely blind because of the algae. A lot of the yuck is 7-8 ft deep and a leaf net mostly full of muck probably weights about 15-20 lb. When I get to the point of few leaves and light muck, am seriously thinking about getting an AG pump instead of a sump so I can vac and drain enough to be able to work on the plumbing in the pad. Saw a thread about a service tech who was doing that.
 
Your poor knees and whole body! I wish I had THE quick answer for you. The only problem with the pool pump is the stuff has to get past the impeller :( I have clogged up my impeller with just a few leaves so............See about renting a "trash pump". They are made to suck up some stuff so might work for you.
 

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Sure didn't expect the knee pain. Guess it's from the lift and bounce then wiggle, wiggle, wiggle of the net to drain excess water before dumping into the lawn cart. 'Fraid the the only real answer is persistence. Like I said, I'll only consider the AG pump after scoops yield almost no leaves. Maybe a leaf canister before the pump... Cost of a house brand pump at inyopools not much more than a trash pump and it'd be more useful if I don't burn it up. Probably need to use over period of several days, so renting likely not cost effective.
 
From water filler thread:

YippeeSkippy said:
Which Polaris cleaner did you have? Was it pressure sided or suction- did it have its own pump for power?
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Polaris 9600 Sport, never used & still in the box. Yes, it required an aux pump. Purchased a number of years ago right before family health issues detoured "life". So the pipe at this point is unused with one end in the pool, one end in the pad.

Since my original post was removed, I'll restate that I'm considering adding an irrigation valve plus a check valve to add water to the pool.
 
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I can't find that cleaner to check but look at the link below to Skippy's Pool Cooler. We had a pressure side outlet for a cheap Polaris sweeper type cleaner and when we went robot we turned it in to a return/fountain port. Do you have the same type wall plug on yours? Water comes out of your port, right??

Maddie :flower:
 
From water filler thread:
I think the type of cleaner is irrelevant at this point. It was never hooked up and the in-pool connector was never installed, so there's just a simple threaded cap IIRC. A fountain is of no interest; a way to add water to the pool without running a hose across the deck is.
 
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No, your post wasn't deleted, I believe it was moved into one another of your threads to consolidate your questions.

The type of cleaner tells us if water flows in or out of that hole in your wall. That's why we ask hence why its relevant.
 
From water filler thread:

Dave31410 said:
Unless you can devise an auto fill device, I am not sure I see the advantage over a hose.
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My irrigation control is also in the pool pad. I know about how much time it takes to add a certain amount of water, so it'd be easy to set the timer to water X minutes.

YippeeSkippy said:
No, your post wasn't deleted, I believe it was moved into one another of your threads to consolidate your questions. The type of cleaner tells us if water flows in or out of that hole in your wall. That's why we ask hence why its relevant.
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Not fussing about moving the post, although since my other thread is getting long, wasn't getting much response to my equipment questions. Keeping the title but leaving off my plans seems a disconnect. I still say the cleaner is irrelevent since the pipe involved is NOT connected to anything in the pad. It's just a pipe. Posted to see if there might be some reason, maybe back pressure or something, that this was not a good idea. I value all the help I get here. (y)
 
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If the muck is that bad the best way is a gas trash pump and then get it and clean it out manually then new fill water. I didn't know it was that bad I would have recommended it earlier. Home depot and the likes rent them you would empty average pool in 10 min. City water or well?
 
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Water is from a well and remember it's a fiberglass pool. Only plan to drain enough to redo plumbing at pump pad which is below skimmer level. Not all of it is muck, but there's been quite a bit. I was aware that a trash pump was an option and that's what the local pool guy wanted to use. BTW, have never heard back from pool guy #2. Bet the pics of my Rube Goldberg-ish plumbing on the tiny pad scared him off. :LOL:
 
Think I've about settled on equipment:

Pentair
IntelliCenter i8PSIC60 (521903-IC60)
IntelliFlo GFCI Breaker 2-Pole 20A (PA220GF)
IntelliFlo VS 3 HP pump (11028)
Quad 60 DE filter (188592)
multi-port 2" (261055)

Sure wish I could get confirmation in my IntelliCenter: configuring a Spa thread that my proposed pseudo-spa configuration looks possible. Started a separate thread since the Pentair pros don't seem to visit here. But think that thread's a leper. :ROFLMAO: Since I've not seen how IntelliCenter setup works in real life, have had to "best guess" and probably seem incoherent to them. What I'm guessing now that Spa is kind of a predefined Group/Circuit. You identify equipment mostly from the relays and set values for whatever equipment is used per Group/Circuit. Hopefully.

Price at Wholesale Pool Equipment is almost $130 more than the same equipment from polytec, but Wholesale will give a company-sponsored (not Pentair) 3 yr warranty. Seeing as pool guy #1 didn't seem too enthusiastic about my pool and pool guy #2 has never responded, I'm reluctant to contact others and am planning this now as a DIY project.

Looks like the DE filter and the cartridge ones use either the same or very close size-wise tops & bottoms. If I can find the larger ones locally and it looks like arm/shoulder movement wouldn't be a problem, may go to the 80 or 100 sq ft DE size.

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Now turning my attention to completely redoing the pool pad area. As it is now:
08 Pump pad.jpg

Alas, this is what happens when a job is interrupted and "temporary" measures are used to get it operational, particularly with the electrical. :hammer: Has both pool and irrigation controls. Looking at a complete gut job, probably including the irrigation and electrical (except for the breaker box). First thing is to replace the plastic ball valves.

09 Pump pad right floor.jpg
09a Pump pad right floor.jpg

Knew they were a weak link when I put them in years ago, but couldn't afford Jandy's then. Did put them on threaded connectors (except the red handled one), but in my infinite wisdom, didn't think about that the proximity and height of the handles would prevent removal. Not going to be easy to cut pipes from other side of wall, so may have to cut through the valves themselves. Plan to use 2" pipe inside pad (space permitting), but 1-1/2" pipe to/from the pool, so figure the 1-1/2" Jandy 2-way Never Lube is appropriate.

Or I could just leave the ball valves as is as artifacts not to be used and add the Jandy's after them...

Other side of the wall feeding the ball valves, top row is electrical & blower air, bottom row is to ball valves:
07 Pump Pad outside right pipe entry.jpg
 
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