Requesting help for optimal setup on existing pool

HoboTeaParty

Member
Mar 30, 2019
5
Houston, TX
I am not sure if this is the right section to post this in but since it is technically new and a renovation it may be fine.

I bought a house that sat empty for a while after repairs were done because of hurricane Harvey.
While it was vacant the pool pump was stolen and the pool was semi-drained.
The old owner used a two part epoxy paint to redo the pool but left two squares unpainted where they had a DIY brace made of plywood and 2x4s.

Here is what it currently looks like as I remove all the palm tree debris:

20190328_070433.jpg

I know where to get the paint to finish off the squares and the pool cleaning is straight forward but I need help on a couple of issues:

1. I need to replace the pump.
2. There is a crack by the skimmer that needs to be fixed.

On top of those two main issues I have the following questions:

1. Do I want to switch from the chlorine tab system to salt water generation?
2. Do I need to replace the filter since it has been open to the elements for a bit?
3. Is UV sanitation worth adding?

Here is what the current pool equipment looks like:
20180820_134332.jpg

The pipes are all 1.5" that go through the ground but the filter is 2" and has slip adapters.
I am looking at the Pentair 1.5HP Variable Speed Pump but I think 1.5HP is to much for the 1.5" pipes.

Here is the gap/crack by the skimmer:
20190330_102216.jpg

It looks like they tried to patch it with some sort of mortar and from what I have been told it was a pool type mortar like Patch-It waterproof cement.
Any recommendations beyond just trying to patch with the same stuff?
Looks like I can get a tub of the stuff for $20 local.


**** POOL INFO ****
Located in Houston, TX
34' L x 16' W
3'6" to 7'6" Depth
~22,440 Gallons

~65' from pump area to skimmer
~30' from pump area to jets/return

Let me know if you need more information.
***********************

I am Electrical Engineer by trade so feel free to get technical (preferred actually) and I will be doing all of the work myself.
I would love recommendations for the most optimal setup for the pool equipment and I have no real preference on any brand or setup.
I would also like to make this as low maintenance as possible (I know it will have some but time is money so I am willing to pay for automation to a certain degree).
I am also very nerdy so any suggestions on remote monitoring and/or control would be great, basically a smart pool or IoT pool is what I am looking for (DIY or commercial).

Sorry if this is got to long or to much for one post.
Thanks for reading and any help is appreciated.
 
Welcome to TFP.

Pump - for your pool a 2 speed pump will serve you just as well as a VS pump. Unless you intend to put in a full automation panel that can fully control a VS pump. You can run your pool all the time on low speed. The Pentair Superflow 2 speed pump or the Intelliflo VS pump work well.

Skimmer crack - that crack is large. It looks like the skimmer moved from the pool wall. You have to figure out the stability of the skimmer before you patch it or it will just crack again. @bdavis466 @jimmythegreek @PoolguyinCT may have thoughts on this.

SWG is highly recommended. How many gallons is your pool? Are you going to install it or have it "professionally" installed? I like the Pentair ICXX if it will be professionally installed or the Circupool RJ series SWG.

Filter - What type of filter is it? I would open it and see what the insides look like. If it looks good internally I would keep it.

UV sanitation is not worth the money. Your pool gets plenty of free UV. You have no way of confirming if your UV system is working or not so you can't change your sanitation methods.

Please put what you know of your pool in your signature and then update it as it changes. See What we need to know to answer your questions
 
@ajw22 , I can't list the majority of the stuff that link asks for because I don't have them yet. :)
I can list that I have a in ground pool that is around 22,400 gallons and is fiberglass.
I have a cartridge filter that I may be swapping out or changing to a different type.
I don't have a pump so I cant list anything for it, don't have a SWG or a test kit at this point.
I am on city water.

I will look at the 2 speeds, I do plan on having it on 230V power and was looking at the VS for some more power savings.

For the crack would something like JB water weld work?

I was already looking at the Circupool SWG so its good to see that it is recommended.
 
@PoolguyinCT , wont the water pressure push the wall back?

After a quick google, I see what you mean about the faceplate, I don't have anything like that around so what are the odds that I can buy an aftermarket replacement?
I found replacements online, anything I need to know beyond just find a matching one and screwing it on?

I am working on the pool now and it still has debris in it, once it is clear I will upload more photos.
 
2 speed pump on low has about the same power savings as a VS pump. If you get a SWG you need to run the VS pump around 1500 rpm to satisfy the flow switch.

@PoolguyinCT raises good issues about the integrity of the fiberglass tub that you should resolve before you invest in equipment.
 
I think before you spend any money at all on the pool you need to figure out if the shell is salvageable. that bulge is huge and fiberglass just cant bend that far without damage. Id bet the paint covered up many cracks whether they were hairline cracks or something more. without inspections of those areas you wouldnt know if a repair was done with a skimcoat on the outside or just heavy paintjob. pool paint is the least favorable fix in any pool. even the good stuff doesnt last long and even then its all in the prep. as poolguyCT said the skimmer is probably sheered if not cracked underneath with that much movement. If it was me I would start filling that pool with water to the highest level you can get to the skimmer and see what happens. the pool should never have been emptied but you already know that. I wouldnt feel safe with my friends/family in that pool the way it is, thats a disaster waiting to happen. if the wall gives out you could get concrete/dirt/stone whatever landsliding into the pool from the deck. imagine a kid or someone standing there when that happens. the only way to really address this is to remove the deck from the sides of the bulges and dig down and expose the pool. you want bracing in the rest of the pool ASAP and you want to control groundwater/rainwater if it happens during the repair. at that point you can determine if the shell is salvageable, but I can tell you this is gonna be alot of work and not cheap if you choose to hire somebody. I dont know if a contractor is going to want to put his name on this its the busy season and theres easier money to be made. maybe a excavator can get his mini in there and open it up and you find a boat guy who does fiberglass to address the walls. Im sure this isnt what you want to hear right now, but its the reality. you see the thickness of the shell around the skimmer, thats whats holding back the earth/deck as a retaining wall right now. I can see the poor repair around the skimmer with no faceplate so you know this repair was very poor. the paintjob is probably very poor as well with minimal if no prep. if you were to repaint and fix this up your work is only as good as the substrate which doesnt look great. the skimmer also needs to be opened up top from the deck and thats a job in itself. get us some better pics and lets see the bottom of deepend too, is there a hydrostatic valve or drains?
 

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I have all the major debris out of the pool and most of the "pond" water out of the pool.
pool_mostly_cleaned.PNG
My sump pump is having a hard time finishing the last little bit of water at the bottom so I was going to grab a smaller pump and just pump to buckets to finish it off so I can inspect the bottom.
Also, I was going to get the paint to finish off the two unpainted squares this weekend but it sounds like that would be a waste since I may have to repair the side walls.

So going from here should I:

1. Finish draining it so I can inspect the bottom with the pool un-braced or filled.
2. Source some braces that go across the pool to support the side walls.
3. Fill it completely with water to the skimmer.
4. Fill it to below the unpainted squares.
5. Just fill the whole Dang thing in with dirt and cover with rocks so I have absolutely zero maintenance or hassle...


Right now I am leaning towards starting with step 1 and checking the bottom of the pool first.
I want to see the whole thing before I spend any money on this whole ordeal.
So far I only have sweat equity in this project so I want to know what I am getting into before I open up the check book.
I will reach out to some rental places to see if they have construction braces that can span the ~16' across the pool.

I don't want to do options 3 or 4 yet because I just spent a lot of time getting the pond water out of the thing and I cant paint the sides when they are wet.
Option 5 is sounding better and better by the day but I know my family really wants this pool to be working and I have to think about the house value.

Thanks for the advice @jimmythegreek , I will add another update this weekend with more pictures.
 
You can use a shop vac to get the last of the yuck out as well.

Here is hoping you can find a SAFE way to rescue this pool. Make sure to think with your head though.............I know the family wants it BUT it has to be safe!!! :hug: Keep us in the loop so we can throw ideas at you to see what helps.

Kim:kim:
 
dont rent anything from anywhere. measure how wide the pool is in the deep end, lets say its 14ft. go to lumberyard and get 9 or 10ft 2x4s and one short stud. cut the short stud to like 18-24"pieces and nail them to the ends of the longer 2x4s. put one on one side and one on the other with someone helping and screw them together. thats your bracing. use a shop vac to clean up the last little bit and take a look for any serious damage. the only way you can proceed in my mind is to fill it with water to the skimmer. you need to know if theres any drains down there or on the wall. also look for any returns or other plumbing openings and make a list and/or pics. after you get water in it and IF it holds next would be to either decide if you will repair the walls or leave them like that. take some pics for me of both sides of pool walls in deep end with an angle so I can see how bad bulge is in relation to the angle of the pool. doesnt look as bad as i thought in original pic but its still pretty bad for fiberglass. at that point you make a decision then you check the plumbing to see if it holds. this can be done many ways but regardless you will need to replace the skimmer and that means opening up the deck to get to it. air testing the plumbing would be the next step if you dont want to play with water and pumps. if you do, what I would do is get the cheapest pump off craigslist or wherever and run a piece of pvc or flex hose into the pool water for the suction, if the skimmer is the only suction, then tie into the pool returns at the pad and run the pump to see if plumbing is still alive. you could then plug skimmer and the only way is to air test that with plugs to see if the line is sheared or cracked which im betting it is damaged. im on here often ask any questions you may have
 
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**** UPDATE ****

So I reached out to a couple of pool companies to see what they recommend.
One of the companies said they only do concrete pools and quoted me 8-12k to remove the current pool and landscape it to look like a yard again.
To get a new concrete pool of the same size would be 40- 50k.

I called a fiberglass pool company and they said that per city code its $11,450 to have the pool removed and provided the following quote:

Replace Skimmer$1848
Remove side and rear wall bulges$4000
Hydrostatic leak test on pool plumbing and fixtures$400
Resurface pool (fiberglass with 25 year warranty)$14,765
TOTAL$20,165
optional: install C-5000 cartridge filter and 1.5HP variable speed pump$2785
optional: install saltwater chlorinator system$2150

Resurfacing includes draining pool and preparing for Fibexx, repair all cosmetic cracks and delaminations with catalyzed putty. Saw cut double seal lines around all drains, tile, lights, steps, and outlet fixtures. Apply Fibexx and let cure. Sand entire surface and apply final coat of Fibexx, let cure. Inspect surface and apply non-skid surface on pool steps. Start refill with water (I pay for water), applying Staintrine and algae inhibitor to prevent staining and algae build up. Replace standard inlet fittings and main drain covers. Start up of pool equipment and chemical balancing to be provided by homeowner.

Pool is a 17'x35' one piece fiberglass shell and is approximately 40 years old.

I have no idea if this is a good deal or not, the guy gave me a bunch of BBB rating information so apparently they are good (according to them).
 
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