Replacing Pump - Do i have enough room or replace check valve?

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RichTJ99

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Sep 16, 2016
273
Katonah NY
Hi,

So I am looking to replace my pump for a VS model (not sure which one yet). I was looking at the plumbing and am not sure how to remove the pump without cutting either into the check valve. I didnt do the original install in 1985 but on the right side it looks like its PVC glued to copper which is screwed into the pump.

Do I cut through that union? Am I likely to damage the check valve?

Any suggestions on next steps?

Thanks,
Rich

2017-06-07 13.54.37.jpg
 
I don't quite understand what purpose that check valve serves.

You're going to want to use new threaded, o-ringed unions when you install the new VS pump. So, yes I'd just cut through the old one and replace that whole section of PVC between the pump and the valve.
 
The check valve was in the mix when I bought the house (pool). I dont know where the proper place for a check valve would be.

How would I cut that out or would I need to remove the check valve and the actuator valve (jandy handle on far left)?

It looks like its pump - coupler - check valve - coupler - actuator valve - doesnt look (to me) like a place to splice it all back in?
 
I could be wrong, but I don't believe you really need to have a check valve unless you
are running a solar heating system.

Do you have a spa plumbed in too? That would also need a check valve.
 
I am on my cell phone so hopefully these links of work properly

http://i.imgur.com/1BF6EMU.jpg

http://imgur.com/rsflz8P

http://imgur.com/cT19pRG

It's certainly move the pump and the tank back a little bit but I do have a heater next to the tank so I need to be mindful of reconnecting then end of it but I could go back several feet to some extent period

My biggest question is how do I get started with everything being so tight? Do I cut as much as I can cut and use two and a half inch pipe then go back to 2-inch just to get it started?


SoCalGuy said:
Yep, it's a tight fit. Can you reposition the pump to give you more room? Post some pics of the rest of the plumbing so we can see what you're working with.
Click to expand...
 
Last edited:
Before you start hacking into the plumbing, you should take a look at the dimensions of some VS pumps and see how the locations of the inlet and outlet openings compare to the one you're replacing and find out what size pipe you need.

If it were me, just based on the pics, I'd be tempted to redo all of that copper with PVC. I'd probably cut the old pump out right before that union on the suction side, and either cut the copper pipe on the return side where that clamp is, or just chop it all out back to where it ties into the PVC with that blue goop. You should be able to use couplers to connect everything up, but it will be tight, so plan everything out before you apply glue.

If you decide you need that check valve for some reason, just get a new one... they're only about $30, no big deal.
 
Someone else with more experience on pool/spa combos could probably better suggest
where the check valve goes.

Often there are posts by spa/pool folk who find their spa's draining when off
and that usually is found to be a bad check valve.

I could be wrong of course, but I don't think the check valve for a spa goes
just before the filter like yours does.
 

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SoCalGuy said:
Before you start hacking into the plumbing, you should take a look at the dimensions of some VS pumps and see how the locations of the inlet and outlet openings compare to the one you're replacing and find out what size pipe you need.

If it were me, just based on the pics, I'd be tempted to redo all of that copper with PVC. I'd probably cut the old pump out right before that union on the suction side, and either cut the copper pipe on the return side where that clamp is, or just chop it all out back to where it ties into the PVC with that blue goop. You should be able to use couplers to connect everything up, but it will be tight, so plan everything out before you apply glue.

If you decide you need that check valve for some reason, just get a new one... they're only about $30, no big deal.
Click to expand...

I was thinking the same exact thing - cut the all the copper out from the check valve area to the clamp (temp sensor) - replace it all with PVC.

I am looking at that inteliflo pump or maybe the Jandy one (as the rest is Jandy - doesnt matter much to me).

What I am not understanding is if I cut the threads at the pump area - How do I get that 2.5" coupler off the check valve so I can add additional pvc?

Do I put a 3" pipe over the existing 2.5" coupler & bring it back to 2" PVC for the pump?

I am likely going to hire the someone to redo the PVC (unless you guys think its easy) but want to know exactly the 'right' way to do it vs the 'lazy' way a hired person might try.

Thanks,
Rich

- - - Updated - - -

I find that my spa drains when running for long periods of time. if running for 4 hours i lose a few inches of water - i figure I have a leak somewhere but I have well water & its easy enough to top it back off.

My pool equipment is about 2-3 feet above the pool water line.


borjis said:
Someone else with more experience on pool/spa combos could probably better suggest
where the check valve goes.

Often there are posts by spa/pool folk who find their spa's draining when off
and that usually is found to be a bad check valve.

I could be wrong of course, but I don't think the check valve for a spa goes
just before the filter like yours does.
Click to expand...
 
I think the best way to do it would be replace the Jandy valve (another $60) and go with fresh new PVC all the way back to the piece marked "SPA". Cut that coupler off, leaving enough old PVC to couple a new piece of PVC into a new Jandy.

On the bright side, it looks like whoever owned the pool before you got a lot of years out of that equipment. The Intelliflo is an excellent pump and should give you years of trouble free use.
 
SoCalGuy said:
I think the best way to do it would be replace the Jandy valve (another $60) and go with fresh new PVC all the way back to the piece marked "SPA". Cut that coupler off, leaving enough old PVC to couple a new piece of PVC into a new Jandy.

On the bright side, it looks like whoever owned the pool before you got a lot of years out of that equipment. The Intelliflo is an excellent pump and should give you years of trouble free use.
Click to expand...

So this is what is confusing to me - there isnt really enough PVC (2") exposed to cut off the old & add on the new.

Am I missing something obvious? It seems like if I cut out the Jandy valve (and replace) - how do I add PVC onto the couplers that go over the 2" PVC (which you cant see as they are covered by the 90 turns?

It looks like all my PVC 2" PVC is covered by the 2.5" couplers?


2017-06-09 10.32.05.jpg

- - - Updated - - -

kadavis said:
CMP Pool Products Catalog, You can use a fitting extender on the 2" pvc coupling in front of the pump. If your pocketbook allows you may want to cut out that filter and replace. Since you already have Jandy automation you may want to go with one of there VS pumps
Click to expand...

So this looks like half the coupler is on the Jandy Check valve (left) & half the coupler is on a copper PVC fitting?

I am planning to remove the entire pump, filter, all copper in that area.
 

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^^^^ Yup use that fitting it goes over the 2" coupling. If your system is 2 to 3 feet higher then your pool then that check valve is there to help your pump prime by being able to hold water and not letting the suction side depressurize and drop the water down 3 feet when you open up the pump. If you are going to install a VS pump then you would probably have to push the filter back as the pump will be bulkier and sit higher. THE JEP2.0 or VST-3050 will allow you to mount the Controls to the wall just to let you know.
 
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