You find a speed that supplies the booster with enough water, add about 200rpm to account for a dirty filter, set the timer to run along with that speed, and you're good.
There is a way to plumb a pool so that the booster can run when the main pump is at very low rpm as well. My pool has been operating both ways for over 15 years. I did a replumb about 6 years ago. My pool is older and, because of the way it was originally plumbed, the booster did not always get enough water. Now it does at about 1100 rpm from the main pump.
So I'm likely going to have to hook the SWG up to the timer.... It registers the flow even at ~500rpm, though flickers below 650 or so.
Pump off, no flow light comes on.
Yes it is vertically mounted, and pointing in the way of flow (up)
I still need to program everything, and finish piping out the waste line.
Unfortunately I have very limited pad space, so this was the only realistic way to hook everything up, without pouring more concrete and busting up the old pad. Unfortunately that will be difficult as the pipes and electrical run through the concrete. I did use a swept fitting close to the pump to help.
I did make a mistake tho... Theres a line that comes in, that I assumed was for the pool light.... I didn't see any other lines coming in so I assumed as much.
Hooked up the transformer, and hit the light switch.
A nice little depth charge explosion occured from the light housing... Lol. An unfortunate 350$ mistake, however I can just replace the LED assembly.
The actual light line comes in NEARLY below the breakers in the box. You would have to be laying down to see it. The line I hooked up to the transformer, which is also wired up to the light switch, is for the Shed.
No clue why it is wired up that way, however I have corrected it, and tested that the light was getting 12v from the inverter instead of a spicy dose of 120v.
Still saving myself a significant amount DIY vs professional and name brand parts, so I'll chalk it up as a learning experience.
