Remove Phosphates...When?

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rcortesim

Well-known member
Aug 12, 2024
54
SoCal
Pool Size
20000
Surface
Plaster
Chlorine
Liquid Chlorine
Though temps have not been extremely high over the past 10 days, I had a sudden algae bloom. I have done an overnight test and results are pretty good, so planning to use a phosphate remover next. My filter is due for a cleaning, so should I add the phosphate remover before the filter cleaning or after?
 
Algae occurs when there is insufficient sanitizer (chlorine), not phosphates.

How are you testing?
 
I use AccuBlue's home test and app. I have been doing weekly tests that usually require about 46 oz of muriatic acid and a 1 pound bag of Leslie's Power Powder Plus 73 (chlorine). Just added the chlorine yesterday evening, so decided to do a test this morning to check overnight chlorine loss, but that looks good.
 
You're flying blind because Accublue is problematic, see here :

Any experience with the AccuBlu or LaMotte Spintouch test setups?

I am a chemist and have been able to get my hands on one of these if I wanted. I know a lot of pool stores use one of these 2 or something similar, while I don't trust pool stores themselves the tech seems to make sense. It would seem to be a spectrometer that reads in the visible light range to...
www.troublefreepool.com www.troublefreepool.com

And here :
Test Kits Compared
 
rcortesim said:
I use AccuBlue's home test and app. I have been doing weekly tests that usually require about 46 oz of muriatic acid and a 1 pound bag of Leslie's Power Powder Plus 73 (chlorine). Just added the chlorine yesterday evening, so decided to do a test this morning to check overnight chlorine loss, but that looks good.
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Chlorine would typically need to be added daily; are you also using tabs?

Your methods are not great, but that's not your fault. The typical pool industry BS says throw a few tabs in, inaccurately test once a week, throw some shock in, then hope for the best.

It just doesn't work; but the good news is that you're in the right place. TFP methods are super simple, cheaper, and easier.

Pool Care Basics
 
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Leslie's got you on the AccuBlue merry go round, didn't they? Stop all of the pool store visits and rely on your own testing and chemical determinations based on proven date from this forum. Get yourself a quality test kit Test Kits Comparedand then post the results of your testing with such so that we can see where your water really is. And just because you might have some of the pool store chemicals sitting around that you spent good money on, do not be tempted to use them or you will continue the merry go round. Use liquid chlorine daily until you can provide those test results.
 
Thanks for your response, Newdude. I had already looked at the test kit comparison chart, but didn't find AccuBlue. Here are my results from overnight test. Since chlorine looks good, phosphate remover would be a next step, no?
I do see pH at the high end, but wouldn't that be due to just having added chlorine? TA and pH were both within range prior to adding chlorine yesterday evening.

Screenshot 2024-09-23 at 11.23.03 AM.png​

 
That's because AccuBlue is not a recommended testing method and for the reasons mentioned, mainly inaccuracies. If, and it's a big IF, your CYA is correct in that test then your FC should be between 6-12 ppm if you have a SWG or 10-12 if you use liquid chlorine. You can see the difference between this and what AccuBlue shows. Your PH is fine if it doesn't rise above 8. Right now you could be ripe for an algae breakout so you need to get your FC up immediately. Use the PoolMath app to calculate how much liquid chlorine to add to get into the 10-12 range. Don't use any pucks.
 

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rcortesim said:
Thanks for your response, Newdude. I had already looked at the test kit comparison chart, but didn't find AccuBlue. Here are my results from overnight test. Since chlorine looks good, phosphate remover would be a next step, no?
I do see pH at the high end, but wouldn't that be due to just having added chlorine? TA and pH were both within range prior to adding chlorine yesterday evening.

View attachment 611204​

Click to expand...
Unfortunately you are being "pool stored". They get you on try this, try that, etc. when all you need is chlorine to kill the algae. Hopefully you can ditch the Leslie's testing and advice, get one of the approved testing kits, and we can teach out how to take care of your pool for much cheaper using only what you need (no phosphate removers, flocculants, algaecides, clarifiers, minerals, and any other pool store potions).
 
Sorry, I forgot you already had the algae. Get stocked up on liquid chlorine. Get a recommended test kit first. While a little more expensive, the TFPro is the best kit (it has the speed stir), TF ships quicker than Taylor and has fresher reagents. People who shop Amazon for the Taylor kit don't usually get much life from the reagents. Get your PH down to 7.2 before you start and then remember that you have to check the FC every couple of hours in the beginning and brush a couple of times per day.
 
rcortesim said:
After further readings of all the articles that have been recommended, it looks like a SLAM is the next step.
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That is correct.

But you cannot do the SLAM with your Accublue test kit since it cannot accurately test FC over 10 PPM.

And with a CYA of 90+ you need to drain your pool first and lower your CYA to around 40.
 
TinFoilHat said:
That's because AccuBlue is not a recommended testing method and for the reasons mentioned, mainly inaccuracies. If, and it's a big IF, your CYA is correct in that test then your FC should be between 6-12 ppm if you have a SWG or 10-12 if you use liquid chlorine. You can see the difference between this and what AccuBlue shows. Your PH is fine if it doesn't rise above 8. Right now you could be ripe for an algae breakout so you need to get your FC up immediately. Use the PoolMath app to calculate how much liquid chlorine to add to get into the 10-12 range. Don't use any pucks.
Click to expand...
No SWG, I've just been using powdered chlorine (Leslie's Power Powder Plus 73). I saw the PoolMath app and intend to download it. Thanks!
 
rcortesim said:
Wow, drain my pool? That's expensive in SoCal.
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You are going to spend a lot on Liquid Chlorine during the SLAM maintaining a FC of 36+

You need to do the dilution test for CYA as your CYA can be a lot higher but your Accublue can only test up to 100.

I think you will find the water will be cheaper then the vhemicals to try and tame your algae with your high CYA.

Water Testing Instructions - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com www.troublefreepool.com
 
I was just watching the video on the PoolMath app. It mentions using everyday 6% bleach (I don't have a SWG). Is grocery-bought chlorine a suitable alternative to the liquid chlorine that is sold at pool stores?
 

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