Raypak Heater leaking. Rebuild thread.

[PoolStored]

Found water around the heater! Yikes.

Raypak P-M336A-EN-X, Serial 1705343383, born May 2017, making this 7 years old...haven't had a problem since I've owned the pool.

Without tearing it apart, the water is leaking above the return header. Until I have some time to tear it apart, I'm assuming it is the return header o-ring gasket. Or something else has failed.



May be a multi-week thread, as I have some travel next week, and may not get to it.

If you have raypak heater, this may help you in the future if you have a leak...come along for the ride!

Yes, it is on bypass.

 

[1poolman1]

Found water around the heater! Yikes.

Raypak P-M336A-EN-X, Serial 1705343383, born May 2017, making this 7 years old...haven't had a problem since I've owned the pool.

Without tearing it apart, the water is leaking above the return header. Until I have some time to tear it apart, I'm assuming it is the return header o-ring gasket. Or something else has failed.

View attachment 580172

May be a multi-week thread, as I have some travel next week, and may not get to it.

If you have raypak heater, this may help you in the future if you have a leak...come along for the ride!

Yes, it is on bypass.

There is a thin orange O ring that seals the front and rear header. 006713F. They come packaged as a pair.

 

[PoolStored]

There is a thin orange O ring that seals the front and rear header. 006713F. They come packaged as a pair.

Thanks, already ordered before I posted! Fix it first, then document.

 

[PoolStored]

I hoping its not a header or the tube bundle...those expensive!

 

[PoolStored]

Sooooo....headers are dry. Gotta be the Polymer Cupro Nickel tubes. UGH. $1300.

Do YOU drop the coin on the tubes before you pull it apart? (NOT asking if I should, I got that part...asking what would YOU do? LOL)

First pic is right above the drip...

 

[PoolStored]

So, general condition of the heater is not bad, a tad bit of rust around. I'll inspect the burners, at but at $1500 for the tubes, I'm considering just replacing the unit ($3200, free shipping). At my age, it will be the last heater I buy. @1poolman1 @mas985 @ajw22 thoughts? I'll see if I can get JamesW opinion too...

Heater has been under cover for its life.

Vent.jpg

• PoolStored
• Jun 1, 2022

 

[1poolman1]

Sooooo....headers are dry. Gotta be the Polymer Cupro Nickel tubes. UGH. $1300.

Do YOU drop the coin on the tubes before you pull it apart? (NOT asking if I should, I got that part...asking what would YOU do? LOL)

First pic is right above the drip...

View attachment 580184
View attachment 580185
View attachment 580186

Sorry. Look above each tube. Looks like small water spray forming a rust pattern. Hopefully the rest of the heater is OK.
I worry about all the other metal parts in a heater, internal to the front header and inthe combustion chamber. Then if there has been much water intrusion, the refractory material.
Its not hard to pull the burner tray and check its condition.

 

[PoolStored]

Looks like small water spray forming a rust pattern. Hopefully thexrest of the heater is OK.

Heater is 7 years old, I've owned it for 4. It has never leaked during my ownership. That leaves...it was damage during previous owner. Unless there is some way it could spray only while the heater was on, slow enough not to downward, and could evaporate it with heat. What conditions would that be?

 

[1poolman1]

Heater is 7 years old, I've owned it for 4. It has never leaked during my ownership. That leaves...it was damage during previous owner. Unless there is some way it could spray only while the heater was on, slow enough not to downward, and could evaporate it with heat. What conditions would that be?

Have seen heaters only leak while heating. Expansion of parts, I'm guessing. A light leak/spray would/could be carried upward by the tremendous air flow when the burners are lit.

 

[PoolStored]

I'll inspect the burners, but is it even worth fighting this thing at this point, or I'm patching up a dying beast (I know, you can't tell me cause you can't see it. Lol. Same answer I would give). If maintained, under cover, what is the typical lifespan of a heater?

 

[1poolman1]

I'll inspect the burners, but is it even worth fighting this thing at this point, or I'm patching up a dying beast (I know, you can't tell me cause you can't see it. Lol. Same answer I would give). If maintained, under cover, what is the typical lifespan of a heater?

While a cover aids, most importantly is how is it used? How well have chemicals been maintained?
My heater is nearly 20 years old, outdoors, un-covered, but seldom used. Right now needs a flame-sense rod but otherwise good.
Years ago, an article in a trade-only magazine, by Laars (now Jandy heaters), said a heater in constant use could expect 5 years before issues start or a replacement is needed. That was always my experience on commercial properties, especially spas. Five to seven years after installation with at least one repair in that time. Every commercial property, every brand heater.
Don't know how you have used yours, or the previous owner.

 

[PoolStored]

While a cover aids, most importantly is how is it used?

First 3 years? Who knows. Last 4 years It is turned on, 86 degrees, May 15, and turned off Mid October. The shoulder months it runs, but July/Aug, not much need with solar cover. I'm in NE Ohio.

How well have chemicals been maintained?

First 3 years? UV, Pucks, no check valve, no bypass (ugh, right?) Last 4 years? Really? It's me...PoolStored.

Ok, sarcasm off. LOL.

First 2 years, LC, Stenner, pH 7.6, FC in range, CYA 60, TA 60-80, CH 200. (CSI ?)
Last 2 years, SWCG, Borates. pH 7.4, FC in range, CYA 70, TA 50-60, CH 150, Borates 30-50. (CSI -.6)

OK, deep end time. I've had back and forth with Joyfulnoise (not @ ing him into the convo) on corrosion I've had on a new ladder installed 2 years ago. 316 Marine. Rusting at the waterline. He ran my Pukorius Index (PI) and Ryznar Index (RI) and the RI was 9.15. Anything over 8 is considered corrosive to steel. Not sure the impact on Cupro-Nickel (the only metal in this heater (save the pressure switch).

What say you?

 

[ajw22]

I buy new if the repair cost is over 50% of purchase cost. You are at that threshold.

Once a Raypak heater starts corroding it is hard to stop it.

I have my pool to swim in and not be the heater maintenance guy every season. Buying new gives you another 5-7 years of swimming without heater maintenance.

 

[Newdude]

+1 to the 50% and up rule. I might stretch that down to 30% factoring the age of whatever needs fixing.

 

[PoolStored]

Did further inspection...new heater ordered! Direct replacement, should be easy.

 

[PoolStored]

New heater is in! Mk rat proofing installed. When I was working on it last week, chipmunk jumped out! Hated drilling screws into a new unit…

Have a Harwill Q-8N/2/2/A Viton flow switch that I can set to 35-37 GPM (min flow for this heater), and will wire in series with the pressure switch to ensure adequate flow is present when heater wants to run. I’ll then program the pump for enough speed overnight to deliver the flow to heat and run low speed during the day.

Based on temp rise calculations, 2000 RPM gives me 37GPM.

Longer story, but I believe that keeping pool at a pH of 7.4 led to its demise. Current and target pH is 7.8.

 

[PoolStored]

Final chapter to the heater. Installed a flow switch and flow meter. Wasn't comfortable I was getting the flow right from the temperature measurement. I was right, I was wrong. Flow meter fit into, and replaces the check valve to the heater. No plumbing change required!

2200 RPM gives me about 37gpm. Set the switch to go off if the pump goes to 1300. Setup pump to run 8pm to 6am at 2200 to run the heater, 6am to 8pm at 1300 to keep SWCG happy. Might cost me a bit more to run the pump at 2200, but small price to pay to keep the heater happy. I don't want to replace another in my lifetime.

New heater will always fire when there is enough flow, and stay asleep when there is insufficient flow. Between the flow and the chemistry, I believe both were contributors to its demise.

Hopefully, with the right flow and the proper chemistry, this heater will last a long while.