No the only time those have been disconnected was yesterday while pulling the burner tray out. They’re back in the right spot, but the problem has been there before and after the burner came out.
I don’t have that capabilityCan you confirm your static and dynamic gas pressures?
Then get that capability or hire someone who does.I don’t have that capability
It has been in LPG mode since I bought it new and had it installed.Propane is heavier than air and will pool at the bottom of the heater if not ignited properly. That pooling of propane is likely causing the explosion.
Propane heaters are supposed to try igniting only one time before shutting down. Gas heaters will retry igniting three times before shutting down.
Was your heater converted from NG to propane?
What is the full model number of your heater printed on a sticker likely on the inside of a panel?
Full model number is: P-R156A-EP-C
With an installation like that you have to do one piece at a time from the union to the valve. First open union.Before I go on, yes I will be bringing my gas guy in to ensure the final connections are done properly when the time comes. I still need to disconnect to re-clean the burners and pilot, or replace parts as needed.
However, the connections all seem to be standard right hand thread, so as far as I can tell there is no way to tighten one connection without loosening another. Is it possible that the gas tech overtightened one side, then backed it off to tighten the other side of any of these connections? Again, I am not going to do the gas work myself, but just trying to wrap my head around how this was hooked up.
It was a major pain in the butt to disconnect everything to remove the burner as every turn to loosen one connection tightened another. I had to remove the bracket holding the ignition valve in so everything could sort of turn a bit at a time.
When I did piece it back together, the connection coming into the ignition valve from outside did not pass the soap test. Tightening this would result in loosening the first connection outside the heater. No good.
Thanks for any input, I appreciate everyone’s time who has read and commented on this!
Thanks!
Is the union a left hand thread on the other side?With an installation like that you have to do one piece at a time from the union to the valve. First open union.
You may have to turn the pipe to the 90 away from the heater to do the next step. Take the pipe and union half out of the 90.
You can then remove the entire T with the two vertical pipes by turning counterclockwise.
Then, remove the pipe into the main valve, re-seal it and work backwards to the union again adding new pipe dope to each fitting. Yeah, its a bit of a pain, but the only way to do it so it won't leak.
No, all right hand threads. Just completely loosen the large nut holding it together, Usually takes two pipe wrenches. On yours, the nut would loosen by turning the top toward the heater while holding the left portion. Lightly clean the brass mating surface in the union, no need for any sealant between the two halves. Re-tighten securely.Is the union a left hand thread on the other side?
And this is the part number listed in my manual.Yes it is the Raypak part and the only one I can find anywhere. It looks like it’s designed to fit all models.
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