Raypak 106 Analog Heater - will not start

[Farmer7185]

Heater working at end of last season. At startup this spring, on-off switch stuck in off position. Sprayed with WD-40 and switch freed up.

However, the heater acts “dead”… no attempt to light after turning on and setting thermostat…. I can hear a click when turning on power switch and also when turning up thermostat. But, absolutely nothing after that…

Any idea where to look first?

 

[ajw22]

Look for your multimeter so you can trace the power.

Your manual is here --- https://s3.amazonaws.com/AWSProd/sites/raypakcom/documents/241519.pdf

See Troubleshooting on Page 27.

 

[Farmer7185]

Look for your multimeter so you can trace the power.

Your manual is here --- https://s3.amazonaws.com/AWSProd/sites/raypakcom/documents/241519.pdf

See Troubleshooting on Page 27.

Thanks. I have 120v coming into the transformer, and the on/off switch checks ok with an Ohm meter. No 24v at the ignition control or the temp control… simply the transformer is bad? Or, is there some other possible defect keeping the transformer from outputting the 24v?

 

[ajw22]

Or, is there some other possible defect keeping the transformer from outputting the 24v?

Any of the safety sensors will interrupt the 24V from the ignition control module.

 

[1poolman1]

Test across the two transformer leads.

 

[Farmer7185]

Any of the safety sensors will interrupt the 24V from the ignition control module.

Limits and flow check ok (closed).

 

[Farmer7185]

Test across the two transformer leads.

Yes. Pulled leads and checked. No 24v… ordered a transformer. Thanks!

 

[Mlange126]

Hi @Farmer7185 - I am having issues with my Raypak 106A - the pilot won't start & we have checked/tested everything. I'm wondering if the transformer you ordered worked and resolved the problem for you. And if so, where did you order it from? I see several online and with various prices. Thanks

 

[Farmer7185]

Hi Mlange126.

Turned out that my multimeter was defective and I did not need a transformer after all (now have a spare for futures)…

My issue turned out to be the thermal cut-off fuse. I got the replacement on Amazon. Cheap fix, but hard to get to on this model to actually replace.

If you suspect the transformer. Simply disconnect the slide on clips for the output (blue and yellow wires) and verify you have 24vac across those two wires.

 

[Mlange126]

Thank you @Farmer7185 - I appreciate the advice. Sadly, after further testing I don't think our issue is related to the cut-off fuse or the transformer. That's awesome that you were able to get it fixed w/a cheap part though. We've been doing a lot of testing and after banging the gas valve (our plumber son suggested it) we actually got a error code for the first time (nothing was showing up before) which reads low input. We'll keep testing with fingers crossed.

 

[1poolman1]

For your safety, regardless of who suggests it, NEVER hit a gas valve. If it is stuck closed, your hitting may force it to get stuck open. If it wasn't stuck closed, your hitting it may cause it to get stuck open.
If that were to happen, serious damage or injury could occur from a run-away heater. That is Every Heater School Ever 101. One of the classes I took actually had as a curriculum item "Never Whack the Valve" along with pictures of the results of some who did.

 

[Poolbreh]

What are the symptoms of your heater? Is there a spark? “Low input”? So it’s digital? I can’t find “low input” anywhere.

 

[Mlange126]

HI @Poolbreh - I 100% agree with you; that's what our plumber son told my husband. It won't ignite and we've walked through every step imaginable. My husband has taken it apart and checked everything while I've research what i could online. It's analog and while we never got any reading in the simple error codes until he walked it (I know, I know), it was only then that it registered low voltage input. We couldn’t find anything specific to this code either.