I think that the conclusion is that the plaster is dissolving and raising the TA and calcium hardness.
Rapid pH increase with SWCG
- Thread starter flippinGeo
- Start date
That is correct. But because I’m not in a position to replaster again after just 3 years, I need to try and maintain this disaster.
fill water was fairly balanced…
but watch my logs. CH and TA just rise with no additions. (I did add some baking soda to bring it up slightly as my pH was trending down). Since there is no chemical source of the rise, and I suck up a ton of aggregate with the vacuu, it was concluded that my plaster is failing.
right now I’m looking for guidance on how to approach this season knowing my CH will continue to rise, and I’ll need to keep dumping acid to get TA and pH under control. Objective being to keep the CSI as tight as I can to target to slow the plaster degradation. If I add CaCl now, I worry I’ll be too hard too soon in the season. So my thought is to start the season with higher TA, low CH. Then lower TA as CH rises to try and keep my CSI within range.
Try to keep the CSI near 0.0.
I would balance now with a pH of 7.9 to 8.0 and then lower the pH as needed as the water temp and CH climb to maintain a 0.0 CSI.
I would balance now with a pH of 7.9 to 8.0 and then lower the pH as needed as the water temp and CH climb to maintain a 0.0 CSI.
Sounds good. So hold on adding CaCl though? Just seems unwise to add it as I'm trending +10 CH every 2-3 days.
In order to hit near 0.0 CSI at current CH I'm going to need to bring/hold the TA at 120, holding a pH of 8.0.
It's a difficult situation.
Adding calcium "might" slow down the plaster degradation, but probably not.
No really good options.
OK, I think this is my last question on this topic. I appreciate everyone's help on this nightmare of mine. One way or another, I'm screwed, but now it's just about reducing the "screwtiny" level for as long as I can.
So my question is... Is it safe/desired to keep my pH this high (basic) and my CH so low, so long as my CSI is close to neutral? I'm going to need to get a higher range pH tester to maintain this, but want to confirm this is an acceptable range, given my issues? I'm assuming that the pH, TA, and CH will continue to rise as the plaster continues to dissolve. But keeping my pH this high seems to be the only way to keep the CSI close to 0.0.
As of this morning this is where my water is:
So my question is... Is it safe/desired to keep my pH this high (basic) and my CH so low, so long as my CSI is close to neutral? I'm going to need to get a higher range pH tester to maintain this, but want to confirm this is an acceptable range, given my issues? I'm assuming that the pH, TA, and CH will continue to rise as the plaster continues to dissolve. But keeping my pH this high seems to be the only way to keep the CSI close to 0.0.
As of this morning this is where my water is:
- FC = 5.0
- pH >= 8.0 (8.4 is my guess, I'm going to need to get a higher range test, see photo)
- TA = 80
- CH = 130
- CYA = 80
- SALT = 3100 (Though this doesn't make sense because my cell (IC 40 calls for 3600-3800) is flashing high salt. I think I got some bunghole salt as the math on the salt adds this season have all been off. In either case, I'm now producing FC from it, so I'm rolling with it)
- TEMP = 75°
- CSI = 0.07
Sorry I lied... Does anyone have a recommendation on a digital pH tester. There are so many on the market its hard to tell the wheat from the chaff
If you can reliably and accurately keep the pH above 7.9, I would suggest a top pH of 8.2 and balance the calcium hardness accordingly.
- Jul 21, 2013
- 65,181
- Pool Size
- 35000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
DanF
Silver Supporter
- Mar 17, 2019
- 610
- Pool Size
- 12500
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-45 Plus
Agree with Alan, although I and others have the Apera pH60. The pH60 has a replaceable probe -- and you will need to replace the probe every 12-24 months. I can't recall if there are any other differences.
Yeah I may. The problem is if I add calcium now it will be high by mid late season and I’ll be back to getting new fill water every year. At $1200 not ideal. If I could at least 2 years that would help by keeping my CH down