- Jun 1, 2018
- 16,000
- Pool Size
- 26000
- Surface
- Vinyl
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Hayward Aqua Rite (T-15)
Hard to see because he’s using yellow dye but here’s an example
Rapid leak
- Thread starter SkipperLikesToFish
- Start date
If you can get a test plug into the actual drain pipe, that would rule that out (if it keeps losing). Then you'd know it's the HS valve or drain box itself....That's a lot of water gone somewhere, don't mess with this. As was said get some water on the plaster and find the leak, quick! Spend the money on a specialist if you need to because the alternative problems can cost a fortune...
Very well said, that’s where I have landed. The earliest I could get a company out just to check for leaks is Friday. I’m incredibly uneasy about the pool staying empty for 2 days. The water has to have drained underground which further makes me uneasy.
- Feb 6, 2015
- 7,807
- Pool Size
- 12300
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-45 Plus
Wade thru the puddle that's left and take a few pics of the drain cover up close.
Once we see those, we can suggest how to remove it.
Once the drain cover is removed, you should be able to easily see the hydrostatic relief valve.
In the mean time, try to keep the exposed plaster damp.
Once we see those, we can suggest how to remove it.
Once the drain cover is removed, you should be able to easily see the hydrostatic relief valve.
In the mean time, try to keep the exposed plaster damp.
Oh wow, it’s been dry since yesterday. I’ll do that. It will be fun in this south Florida sun to try keeping it damp
Attachments
- Feb 6, 2015
- 7,807
- Pool Size
- 12300
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-45 Plus
Do you only have a single drain cover or two of them?
Unscrew the two phillips head screws in the cover.
If the screws come out of the cover, be sure to carefully retain them.
Remove the cover- it should come off easily after unscrewing the screws.
Show us a pic of what is inside.
Unscrew the two phillips head screws in the cover.
If the screws come out of the cover, be sure to carefully retain them.
Remove the cover- it should come off easily after unscrewing the screws.
Show us a pic of what is inside.
We purchased the house (originally built in ‘66) and it already had the pool. In fact, the original skimmer was sized for a spa. We had to pay for a Hayward skimmer to be installed. When they replaced the skimmer, it had been leaking for so long that it destroyed the rebar and the concrete around the original skimmer. We are first time pool owners and this one has been a bear. It will probably take me a hour or two to take a picture of inside the drain but I will post it as soon as I can. I am very appreciative of the guidance!
I'd get some dye now that hopefully the cover is off, grab a garden hose give it 20 minutes then use the dye to self diagnose. If indeed it is the valve run out and buy what you need to remove and install a new one. With TFP and youtube call it done. Then check again with the dye and fill if all is good. Save the cash if it's that simple.
So you don’t recommend hiring a leak specialist? I am a first time pool owner.
Keep them on order and do your due diligence in the investigation just like they will do. If in fact it's the simple answer of the hydrostatic valve don't walk but run to get it and all that's needed for the job. Save the cash for the next problem that you can't solve. Then you can call to cancel. I mean it doesn't get more simple then this, after all it's drained already so take advantage as you don't need anything high tech at this point.
Brian PacNW
Silver Supporter
Can someone explain to the untrained eye what those recent photos show? Lack of HRV? Or just general deterioration?
I was just advised that this pool was built in the 60’s and they used cement. This pool did not even have a hydrostatic valve installed
That's one heck of a main drain, nothing that hydraulic cement can't take care of. I'm sure it can be fitted with a hydrostatic valve being part of the repair.
It doesn’t even look like there’s a drain at all. Or is that rusty colored spot where an iron pipe used to be? There should be a plastic shell and a drain hole leading back to your pad. But I’m stumped why it would all of a sudden fail like that.