Quick Electrical Question - Conduit

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nick_wa

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Jun 12, 2012
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I have everything planned out for our pool build this year, besides the electrical. I have a 100A sub-panel in my detached garage, so that is where the power will come from (50' away).

What I would like to do:

a. Run (1) 20 amp circuit from garage sub-panel, to an Intermatic timer mounted in the garage, out to a post 8' from my AGP. This will go through 1" conduit with 12gauge THWN, to a outdoor rated receptacle box with gfci receptacle with an in-use cover. The pool pump and SWG will plug into this outlet (which is switched by the timer in the garage).

b. Run (1) 15 amp circuit from garage sub-panel, out to the same post 8' from my AGP. This will go through the SAME 1" conduit also with 12gauge THWN, to a separate outdoor rated receptacle box with gfci receptacle and in-use cover. This will be my convenience receptacle.

Questions:

1. Can I run both circuits in the same conduit assuming I use 3 separate THWN for each circuit and terminate to separate breakers on the panel?

2. Since my pump and SWG will be plugged into the Intermatic-switched receptacle, is this considered a "disconnect" because I am able to simply pull the plugs when needing to service the equipment?


Thanks!
 
Move up to 1.5" conduit and sweeping 90's and your good to go. The larger diameter will be easier to pull.

Building codes in your area determain exactly what is a disconnect. I think you are okay with the outlet. use GFCI breakers not outlets.

John
 
jtburf said:
Move up to 1.5" conduit and sweeping 90's and your good to go. The larger diameter will be easier to pull.

Building codes in your area determain exactly what is a disconnect. I think you are okay with the outlet. use GFCI breakers not outlets.

John
Click to expand...


Hi John, thanks for the reply.

So to confirm, 2 circuits on separate breakers to separate outlet boxes are allowed to share a conduit using all separate conductors/ground?

I'll look for more info about disconnects.
 
jtburf said:
Yes, in my area you can, why not just pull a 220V 4 wire run and split the 110's out of that?

John
Click to expand...

Code requires pumps to be on a dedicated breaker and circuit.
 
Nick,

Do you have a spa included in the pool? If so there are a lot of different ways to do this, they all work and it comes down to your personal preferences. Regardless of these choices, you may want to consider a separate timer for the SWG so you can run it independent of the pump to control FC level. Before we get into the additional considerations, please let us know more about your pool by adding details about your pool in the signature. To do this click on your site name top right and then click on "signature" to open up the text box. I see you've been on this site quite a while and it must be exciting to get started with your pool. I hope all goes well and please do keep us updated!

I hope this is helpful.

Chris
 
setsailsoon said:
Nick,

Do you have a spa included in the pool? If so there are a lot of different ways to do this, they all work and it comes down to your personal preferences. Regardless of these choices, you may want to consider a separate timer for the SWG so you can run it independent of the pump to control FC level. Before we get into the additional considerations, please let us know more about your pool by adding details about your pool in the signature. To do this click on your site name top right and then click on "signature" to open up the text box. I see you've been on this site quite a while and it must be exciting to get started with your pool. I hope all goes well and please do keep us updated!

I hope this is helpful.

Chris
Click to expand...

No spa and it will be a simple above ground pool, 21' x 54" with a 1.5hp 2 speed pump and Hayward AquaRite SWG with 40k T-Cell. The pump has to be running for the SWG so I want them to be run on the same timer.
 
Running two circuits in the same conduit is fine. With 6-#12 THWN's, 1" conduit is more than big enough. However, it never hurts to run bigger in case you want to add a sub panel out there in the future. Then it would be big enough to pull larger wires.
 
Bama Rambler said:
Running two circuits in the same conduit is fine. With 6-#12 THWN's, 1" conduit is more than big enough. However, it never hurts to run bigger in case you want to add a sub panel out there in the future. Then it would be big enough to pull larger wires.
Click to expand...

Thank you, I will consider it but glad to know I don't have to run 2 conduit.
 
Nick we are doing the same thing as you but are adding a NG heater and next season will be looking more seriously at solar. After pricing everything out, we can install a hayward prologic with SWCG for not much more than the way you are doing it. We will run 220V out to the sub panel beside the pool and connect everything there. Then as we upgrade and change things we won't need to worry about not having the power required. Not sure where your located but something else to consider.
16 celcius here today. cmon summer!
 

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Nick,

Just a little FYI
Your home is fed with 220V and somewhere between 150-200 amps, your breaker box or panel split this to 110 or 220 depending on the circuit needs.
So you pull a 4 wire and feed it with 220, then in the subpanel you make 2 or 3 or 4 110V circuit's, just do not overload amps.

One wire or not does not mean a dedicated circuit unless you run each wire to an outlet and not have a breaker there.

John
 
Bosley said:
Nick we are doing the same thing as you but are adding a NG heater and next season will be looking more seriously at solar. After pricing everything out, we can install a hayward prologic with SWCG for not much more than the way you are doing it. We will run 220V out to the sub panel beside the pool and connect everything there. Then as we upgrade and change things we won't need to worry about not having the power required. Not sure where your located but something else to consider.
16 celcius here today. cmon summer!
Click to expand...

I had originally looked at the Hayward Prologic with 40k T-cell but (in addition to cost) got a bit concerned with the number of things I read about the board failing. I came across a few with the Aqua-Rite as well, but not nearly as many.
 
@Bosley You're in Canada too? Where are you buying your Aquaplus from (or where did if you already have)?

The cheapest I can find for the Aquaplus with 40k T-Cell is Amazon.ca for $1900 CAD. For the AQR15 with 40k T-Cell would be $1590 from Pool Supplies Canada.

From a US pool site, I could get the AQR15 with 40k T-Cell for $1165 or the Aquaplus with 40k T-Cell for $1520.

I wonder if I would have any warranty issues if I ordered from a US site for use in Canada?
 
@nick_wa We are just outside of Edmonton. I am also looking at Pool Supplies Canada. They seem to be cheaper than anyone else and really are great to deal with. We ordered our pool and everything from them on black friday. I actually just got a quote from them this AM for valves and stuff that we need. The prologic P and 40K SWCG is $1678 and free shipping. I cant beat that price anywhere.

I was shopping in the US but once you add the exchange and shipping it ends up costing more. We are still trying to decide if we need the automation or simply run timers and upgrade when and if we add solar. We want to see what it costs to heat with NG before we take the solar leap.
 
The Hayward control centers are actually sub panels so run a simple 40 amp 220v circuit to it and go fron there skip the single runs will be more work utilize the panel given. I have an t15 bundle and I ran 6guage to it even tho my main is 40 amps. I never know when I'll need more power someday. Do it once and be done
 
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PoolGate said:
Why don't you want to run a single say 50 amp line and put in a sub panel? Putting individual breakers is extra work for 0 gain.
Click to expand...

A couple reasons. #1 is cost. I can't find anything but #10, #12, or #14 to buy by the foot or in 30m rolls. All the electrical supply houses only sell by 300m spool. Also, panel is an extra cost and I would rather keep the timer inside (to protect it from the weather). 3 extra #12 conductors is much less than a subpanel and 6 awg (which I can't find as of yet).

jimmythegreek said:
The Hayward control centers are actually sub panels so run a simple 40 amp 220v circuit to it and go fron there skip the single runs will be more work utilize the panel given. I have an t15 bundle and I ran 6guage to it even tho my main is 40 amps. I never know when I'll need more power someday. Do it once and be done
Click to expand...

The Hayward panel is definitely nice, but my material list would be at least $600 more than doing the AQR15 with 2 circuits fed from garage panel. The conduit will be in should I ever need more power (don't foresee any future changes besides a NG heater but that would be multiple years down the road).
 
Where are you located? I often buy heavier thhn/thxn on Ebay there are a few wholesale sellers that are cheaper than my local supply house and they have 25foot increments. Many sources available online nowadays.
As for the Hayward panel I saw you mention the t15 bundle with aaquaplus. The automation and subpanel features are very nice it's worth it in the end I'm glad I went that route over timers
 

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