PVC three way valve - full port

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M

miamicuse

Well-known member
May 26, 2019
126
Fort Lauderdale, Florida
I am trying to add a tee to my line to remove water from the pool/spa when the water level is too high, like after days of heavy rain.

Should this tee be added after the pump before the filter, or after the filter?

I know I can do it with a tee and two ball valves, may be it's cleaner to use a three way valve? I bought one off Amazon and I noticed the valve has a restriction in it so this one is no good. Can someone recommend if there is a 3 way PVC valve that has no restriction and doesn't cost an arm and a leg, or may be just do two ball valves with a tee.
 
Jimrahbe said:
m,

What did you buy? Was it a Jandy three way valve?

Not sure what restrictions you are talking about and how they would have any effect on what you want to do.

Show us some pics of the valve.

Thanks,

Jim R.
Click to expand...
It is a FIBROPOOL 3 way ball valve. Not a Jandy.

Here are some pictures.

IMG_20230928_140824.jpg

IMG_20230928_140837.jpg

You can see in the second image, that inside the hub there is another reduction in the white PVC by about 1/4", then the black plastic piece in the middle has another reduction.
 
For draining alone it doesn't matter. For bypassing the filter, say, for removing heavy debris at opening, you want it before the filter.

Every valve I've ever seen has some degree of internal reduction. Pools.... hose bibs.... gas shut offs..... It's not detrimental for a short length.
 
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With no signature and no description of your pool and equipment we have no idea how much the valve restriction will effect your pool.

I would not want that much restriction in my pool plumbing.

A Jandy type diverter valve does not choke down the flow.
 
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miamicuse said:
Should the tee for the waste line be upstream or downstream of the filter?
Click to expand...
Ummm, it's waste. If you want to add extra "dirt" to your filter, and pump out nice clean water...but most do it before the filter. Many times in the spring, I have way more winter gunk in the pool than there should be...so getting rid of it without having to do a filter cleaning after is the way to go.
 
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Newdude said:
For draining alone it doesn't matter. For bypassing the filter, say, for removing heavy debris at opening, you want it before the filter.

Every valve I've ever seen has some degree of internal reduction. Pools.... hose bibs.... gas shut offs..... It's not detrimental for a short length.
Click to expand...

Yes it is for the waste discharge, but since it is restricting all three ports of that tee, even when the waste branch is not used which is 99.9% of the time, it is a bottle neck just exiting the pump and entering the filter, it will become a bottle neck to the entire run.

I have full port ball valves for hose bibbs where I need as much flow as possible, for example the one next to my pool for filling pool water is full port. I have Jandy valves on the suction side of the pump I don't know if those are full port or not.
 
miamicuse said:
but since it is restricting all three ports of that tee, even when the waste branch is not used which is 99.9% of the time, it is a bottle neck just exiting the pump and entering the filter, it will become a bottle neck to the entire run
Click to expand...
We routinely see folks upset that the builder used hard 90s and not sweeps, or they need to add a couple 90s when reconfiguring something and we tell both not to lose any sleep over it. This is no different IMO.

Best practice is as little restrictions as possible. When possible, avoiding them is preferred. If not, minor restrictions won't change the price of beer.

*thoughts and expressions of Newdude are those of his own and do not reflect NewdudeCorp. Side effects include nausea, vomiting or telling him to shut the flocc up.
 

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Newdude said:
We routinely see folks upset that the builder used hard 90s and not sweeps, or they need to add a couple 90s when reconfiguring something and we tell both not to lose any sleep over it. This is no different IMO.

Best practice is as little restrictions as possible. When possible, avoiding them is preferred. If not, minor restrictions won't change the price of beer.

*thoughts and expressions of Newdude are those of his own and do not reflect NewdudeCorp. Side effects include nausea, vomiting or telling him to shut the flocc up.
Click to expand...
I think in this case there is a difference, hard 90s vs sweeps the difference is frictional losses which affect pump's performance and head requirement, I don't see one or two elbows make a appreciable difference, but if you are talking about 30 elbows that could add up, but then again if the pump can handle high head it can make up for it. On the other hand if you take a run of pipe that's 2" all the way and put in a 1-1/2" bottle neck in the middle, that will restrict the flow GPM right there, which I think it may be significant although I can't quantify it. I don't care of the waste branch is restricted but I would prefer the through branches to be full size. But if I already have valves in that run that's already restricted smaller than the pipe ID then I don't think it matters much. Like if the end of the run are two eyeballs with 3/4" outlets, may be not.

I think Jandy valves are full port right?
 
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