Yup. Fire when ready. Loss greater than 1 means something was eating your FC. Or vice versa.
here it is again for easy finding SLAM Process
here it is again for easy finding SLAM Process
Purchasing our very first pool (with a house)
- Thread starter Vanti
- Start date
How is the water looking ? You need to be able to see bottom for swimmer safety.
if it’s somewhat clear then swimming is safe anywhere between minimum up to and including SLAM level based upon your CYA and the FC/CYA Levels
It's very clear, and we can definitely see the bottom. We're just having a stupid heatwave and it'd be nice to enjoy it. I'm glad we'll be able to.
Hey y'all, I've got a SLAM question. Our FC level is supposed to be 20, and we've found out that it takes 1 gallon of liquid chlorine to bring it up by about 3ppm. What we've been debating about is the plan when we do a test and the level is like, 17. Do we add just one gallon to get it to 20, or is it better to add more (like 1.5 or 2 gallons) so that it ends up slightly above and can stay there longer before drifting down?
We both work tomorrow, so we won't be able to test as often as we have this weekend -- I think we'll probably be able to do 3 or 4 tests, maybe 5. Thanks!
We both work tomorrow, so we won't be able to test as often as we have this weekend -- I think we'll probably be able to do 3 or 4 tests, maybe 5. Thanks!
How fast/much is it dropping between doses now? If you can test 4 times that would be awesome! I would shoot for 20 or so and go from there. With the water being clear makes you ahead of the curve already!
It went from 22 to 19.5 overnight. Husband guesstimates it's dropping about 1/2 ppm every hour or so -- it's about 90, sunny with sun on the pool for a decent part of the day, and we swam in it for awhile. We've only had to add 2 gallons of 10% today, but yesterday was at least 5 or 6 gallons and maybe more. We lost track somewhere along the way. 
I would get it to SLAM level as often as you can and call it good.
Do you happen to have a SWG?
Do you happen to have a SWG?
OK, cool! I'm going to test during halftime of the soccer game. I figure by the time husband gets home it'll be about an hour or so later and it'll give us our night reading.
No SWG. We haven't had our pool equipment crash course yet, but we're both sure of that much.
No SWG. We haven't had our pool equipment crash course yet, but we're both sure of that much.
Hi Truly Fantastic People!
So, I finally have more info about our pool after meeting with the pool person this week. We've found out that we have a 15-20k gallon white plaster pool that was probably built with or around the time the house was built, in 1963. Husband and I were compromising with our pool volume by calling it 17.5k gallons but the pool person treats it as a 20k gallon pool and says that usually works fine.
We did our first SLAM this week and the pool is visually looking great. Our results for today:
FC: 14.5
pH: 7.3
TA: 100
CH: 400
CYA: 50
I've been logging everything in the Pool Math app which says FC & TA are outside of the recommended range, and pH is outside of the ideal range. But, the test kit says that TA should be 100-120. Which should we be going by, or does it really matter that much?
Also, I'm trying to make my signature helpful for y'all now that things are less chaotic. I googled and this is what I found, but I'm not sure what's actually important:
Hayward Heater
Hayward Sand Filter
Pentair Booster Pump for the Polaris
Pentair Pool Pump
Century Pump Motor????
And finally, we're on a time of use electric plan. Meaning that our cost of electricity is lowest from 10PM - 6AM and the priciest hours are from 3-8PM. Is running our pump overnight OK, or is it best to run during the day? We were hoping we could run it overnight for 8 hours (PDX daytime summer temps are 70-90ish as a general rule). Also, suggestions on how often and how long we should run the Polaris?
Thanks again for your insight.
So, I finally have more info about our pool after meeting with the pool person this week. We've found out that we have a 15-20k gallon white plaster pool that was probably built with or around the time the house was built, in 1963. Husband and I were compromising with our pool volume by calling it 17.5k gallons but the pool person treats it as a 20k gallon pool and says that usually works fine.
We did our first SLAM this week and the pool is visually looking great. Our results for today:
FC: 14.5
pH: 7.3
TA: 100
CH: 400
CYA: 50
I've been logging everything in the Pool Math app which says FC & TA are outside of the recommended range, and pH is outside of the ideal range. But, the test kit says that TA should be 100-120. Which should we be going by, or does it really matter that much?
Also, I'm trying to make my signature helpful for y'all now that things are less chaotic. I googled and this is what I found, but I'm not sure what's actually important:
Hayward Heater
Hayward Sand Filter
Pentair Booster Pump for the Polaris
Pentair Pool Pump
Century Pump Motor????
And finally, we're on a time of use electric plan. Meaning that our cost of electricity is lowest from 10PM - 6AM and the priciest hours are from 3-8PM. Is running our pump overnight OK, or is it best to run during the day? We were hoping we could run it overnight for 8 hours (PDX daytime summer temps are 70-90ish as a general rule). Also, suggestions on how often and how long we should run the Polaris?
Thanks again for your insight.
Vanti,
Pump needs to run 24/7 during slam.
So you say CYA is 50, then the slam level would be 20. Anything lower then that is not called slam. Add the chlorine as per PM then check it 20 minutes later .If it hadn't reached the slam you'd need to raise it again per PM but you'd have to try to figure out the pool capacity as your going along. Set PM for 17.5k gallons and see if you reach the slam. If not add again but if it's not hitting the mark bring up the pool capacity by 1500 gallons and recalculate. Your TA is fine for now and will eventually come down slowly when the PH goes high and you lower with MA.
Pump needs to run 24/7 during slam.
So you say CYA is 50, then the slam level would be 20. Anything lower then that is not called slam. Add the chlorine as per PM then check it 20 minutes later .If it hadn't reached the slam you'd need to raise it again per PM but you'd have to try to figure out the pool capacity as your going along. Set PM for 17.5k gallons and see if you reach the slam. If not add again but if it's not hitting the mark bring up the pool capacity by 1500 gallons and recalculate. Your TA is fine for now and will eventually come down slowly when the PH goes high and you lower with MA.
Oh, I'm sorry!
I should have clarified -- we completed our first SLAM this week. We successfully passed all 3 tests mid-week. To be extra sure, we kept the pool at SLAM levels for an extra day or two and made sure we had two back-to-back successful OCLTs.
Now that it's over we're wondering how to best manage the pumps and electricity and all of the other stuff.
In that case target for 50 is 6-8 pp and aim for 8 for the extra insurance. As before no worries on the TA it'll come down slowly as you treat with MA when bringing the PH down. For sanitization all you need is 1 hour of pump time to circulate the FC the rest of the pump/ filter time is owner preference meaning you decide how much skimming you desire and brush twice weekly. You can add the chlorine at night but will need to check mid to late day to see where the chlorine is at and adjust accordingly possibly needing the chlorine during the day when pool and sun are a factor.
Add these 2 to your signature. Don't need the link just the fact you have a heater and sand filter.
Then run your pump during this time. It is fine so long as the FC stays high enough for you CYA during the day. You will find your sweet spot on how long to run the pump after a while. Run it for 4 hours for a couple of says. Is the pool staying clean? Then go down a hour or up an hour depending on how your pool is looking.
Again let your pool tell you. Do you have a lot of leaves and such falling into the pool?
You have done a great job learning all things pool!! I love how you are already at the dialing it in part!
Kim
reggiehammond
Gold Supporter
- Oct 4, 2020
- 1,617
- Pool Size
- 30000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-60 Plus
For less than $500, you could swap to a V-Green variable speed motor. If you’re thinking of going to SWCG for chlorine, a Vs pump is a necessity. The pump would be using less than 200 watts, so the TOU pricing no longer is an issue. New motor would pay for itself quickly either way.
www.inyopools.com
Pentair SuperFlo Pump Parts - INYOPools.com
Pentair SuperFlo Pump - INYOpools.com has the largest selection of swimming pool and spa replacement parts with over 70,000 parts in stock. Order today and save!
www.inyopools.com
That's good to know! We've got a million other house projects we want to tackle once the other house sells, but I'll keep this on our to-do list.For less than $500, you could swap to a V-Green variable speed motor. If you’re thinking of going to SWCG for chlorine, a Vs pump is a necessity. The pump would be using less than 200 watts, so the TOU pricing no longer is an issue. New motor would pay for itself quickly either way.
Pentair SuperFlo Pump Parts - INYOPools.com
Pentair SuperFlo Pump - INYOpools.com has the largest selection of swimming pool and spa replacement parts with over 70,000 parts in stock. Order today and save!
A couple more questions:
We're going away for a week over Labor Day. I've seen people suggest raising their pool to SLAM levels, tossing in a few tablets, and crossing their fingers that everything is good when they get back. Is that something we should try?
I was also sorting out the testing supplies that we have last night. We bought the TF100 which includes the K1000. The previous owners left behind a K1003, which looks to be the K1000 with a couple of extra things. Do we need the extras that are in that kit? Do reagents and such expire?
The push it up to SLAM level and putting pucks in it works good. Just make sure your CYA level has room to go up a tick or two. Use Pool Math to see what x tabs will do to your CYA level. Until you leave I would keep my FC towards the high side to make sure it is really clean for when you leave.
Hey y'all! We're heading out of town for a week tomorrow. Should we get it to shock level today or do it tomorrow morning (we'll have time)? Also, how long do we need to wait to test after adding chlorine to make sure we've hit shock level?
The longer you wait to add, the longer it will last when you’re gone. Unless you are leaving at 0-dark-30. Then add tonight once it’s dark and there is no UV to burn it off.
20 mins with good circulation is plenty.