Thanks again Arizonarob! Great info! I'm going to call the pool company with these suggestions to make sure we're on the same page. I don't want any surprises when they get here - holding up our opening!
*Pump Replacement
- Thread starter BsPool
- Start date
And the latest (I think I'm almost ready to pull the trigger)...
I talked to the pool company - they've been a great help and seem to really know what they're talking about. I told them I'd like to:
• Replace current pump with Hayward SP3206VSP 2.7 HP TriStar VS pump
• Add a surge protector
• Replace the blue t-valve with a 3-way Jandy, so that it's easy to remove the pump and bring inside during winter
In regards to the surge protector, they said that's more in an electrician's camp and not something they could hook up. Our pump and heater are hard wired to a covered outdoor switch that turns the whole system on. Would the breaker in the house be enough protection with it being hard wired - or would you still suggest the add-on surge protector? If so, how difficult are those to wire? I would want an electrician do the install - which means it would be a separate scheduling and expense. Is it a big deal to have it hooked up later so that we can move forward with replacing the pump to get the pool up and running and then have the surge protector installed at a later date?
The pool company said they we're going to look into the SP3206VSP a little more to see if they come with any kind of internal electrical protection.
Their only comment on the 3-way Jandy is that they can be pretty expensive and if I wanted I could go with the Jandy Never Lube. Any input on this? I'll probably go with the 3-way Jandy, just curious.
Getting there (I hope)! Thanks again for all the help!
I talked to the pool company - they've been a great help and seem to really know what they're talking about. I told them I'd like to:
• Replace current pump with Hayward SP3206VSP 2.7 HP TriStar VS pump
• Add a surge protector
• Replace the blue t-valve with a 3-way Jandy, so that it's easy to remove the pump and bring inside during winter
In regards to the surge protector, they said that's more in an electrician's camp and not something they could hook up. Our pump and heater are hard wired to a covered outdoor switch that turns the whole system on. Would the breaker in the house be enough protection with it being hard wired - or would you still suggest the add-on surge protector? If so, how difficult are those to wire? I would want an electrician do the install - which means it would be a separate scheduling and expense. Is it a big deal to have it hooked up later so that we can move forward with replacing the pump to get the pool up and running and then have the surge protector installed at a later date?
The pool company said they we're going to look into the SP3206VSP a little more to see if they come with any kind of internal electrical protection.
Their only comment on the 3-way Jandy is that they can be pretty expensive and if I wanted I could go with the Jandy Never Lube. Any input on this? I'll probably go with the 3-way Jandy, just curious.
Getting there (I hope)! Thanks again for all the help!
I am looking at adding a whole home surge protector for my main panel. My <1 yr old Pentair SuperFlo VS motor controller died last summer likely from a surge. The hookup is pretty simple (<10 min). A bonus is it protects your appliances and electronics throughout the home too. An Eaton unit is less than $100 plus electrician. SquareD makes another one.
- May 3, 2007
- 16,815
- Pool Size
- 20000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Hayward Aqua Rite (T-15)
No, a breaker is not sufficient. You must have surge protection for a VS pump or it may not last very long. Line surges can fry the sensitive electronics in the VS drives and they are very expensive to replace. I installed both of mine for the main house and the pool equipment sub-panel. If you have ever done electrical work, it is not hard to install. However, if you have never done electrical work, then I am not sure I would recommend doing this as your first project.
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Got it - thanks! I talked to an electrician friend of mine that said he can install/wire the surge protector.
What are your thoughts on going with a whole home surge protector? I assume it would save the same purpose and it's priced less than the pool pump protectors I've found...
Amazon.com: Eaton CHSPT2SURGE Spd Type 2 Chsp Whole Home Surge Protector, Nema 4, Single Phase, 120/240 Volts, Ul 1449 3Rd Edition: Gateway
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- May 3, 2007
- 16,815
- Pool Size
- 20000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Hayward Aqua Rite (T-15)
You can use the same one for both. This is the one I used for both the house and pool equipment: Square D by Schneider Electric HEPD80 Home Electronics Protective Device - Circuit Breakers - Amazon.com
It is a type 1 which offers a bit more protection than type 2.
It is a type 1 which offers a bit more protection than type 2.
Great thanks! And, just so I'm clear, I only need purchase one of these? It will then protect all "appliances" via the main breaker box - correct?
As always - much appreciated!
As always - much appreciated!
- May 3, 2007
- 16,815
- Pool Size
- 20000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Hayward Aqua Rite (T-15)
For the house, one at the main panel would protect the entire house from external surges. However, internal surges (e.g. appliance malfunction) could theoretically (and very rarely) take out something else in the house even with the main panel surge protector. But you can't do much about that except use power strip protectors as secondary protection. But that is a little overkill IMHO.
However, if your pool sub-panel is fed directly from the meter, like mine, you will need one on the pool sub-panel as well because the main-panel surge protector won't protect the sub-panel with that setup. If the the main panel feeds the sub-panel, in theory, the sub-panel should be protected. But to be safe, you might want two anyway.
However, if your pool sub-panel is fed directly from the meter, like mine, you will need one on the pool sub-panel as well because the main-panel surge protector won't protect the sub-panel with that setup. If the the main panel feeds the sub-panel, in theory, the sub-panel should be protected. But to be safe, you might want two anyway.
Mark, that’s exactly how mine is setup. I don’t have a “sub panel” on mine, it’s a straight feed right from the main box out front.
My main box has a surge on it, as well as a second surge right at the disconnect box for my a/c compressor.
But, you have me curious about something you mentioned earlier. When I had my pump installed in Nov of 17, there was no GFCI breaker installed at the time. (It’s just a regular dual 20amp) Should there have been one installed? And if so, which one do you recommend?
- May 3, 2007
- 16,815
- Pool Size
- 20000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Hayward Aqua Rite (T-15)
By code, there should be a GFCI. Although this wasn't always the case. I think it was added in 2011 so I am surprised that yours passed inspection.
In order for there to be an issue, there would need to be several failures in the electrical wiring (e.g. breaker, ground, bonding). Not impossible but probably pretty rare.
As to what GFCI to use, square D also makes GFCI breakers. But with a 220v installation you need a tandem GFCI breaker:
Square D by Schneider Electric HOM220GFIC Homeline 20 Amp Two-Pole GFCI Circuit Breaker, - - Amazon.com
Check to make sure it is compatible with your breaker box. They are not all the same.
In order for there to be an issue, there would need to be several failures in the electrical wiring (e.g. breaker, ground, bonding). Not impossible but probably pretty rare.
As to what GFCI to use, square D also makes GFCI breakers. But with a 220v installation you need a tandem GFCI breaker:
Square D by Schneider Electric HOM220GFIC Homeline 20 Amp Two-Pole GFCI Circuit Breaker, - - Amazon.com
Check to make sure it is compatible with your breaker box. They are not all the same.
Inspection? There’s no such thing here in AZ. Well, not as far as AFTER the initial build.
I always error on the side of caution, and so I’ll be having that upgraded asap.
Thanks for the info Mark!
All makes sense - thanks for explaining! I don't have a sub-panel, but I do have 2 main breaker panels. So I'll probably add a surge protector to each.
Figured I'd attach a few pics so that you can see the actual setup. Want to be sure I'm not missing anything since this is all foreign to me. I plan to order the new pump and protectors Monday. Thanks again!
- May 3, 2007
- 16,815
- Pool Size
- 20000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Hayward Aqua Rite (T-15)
Are there two separate main lines coming into each breaker box or does one box feed the second? If the later, you only need one surge protector on the primary breaker box.
We've got two separate main lines, so two surge protectors it is! Thanks a ton mas985 for helping me figure all of this out!
Going with...
• Hayward SP3206VSP 2.7 HP TriStar VS pump
• Two Square D by Schneider Electric HEPD80 Whole Home Surge Protectors
• And, the 3-way Jandy Valve
Hopefully all goes as planned. If not I know where to go with questions! Thanks for everyone's help!
New pump is installed and the pool is open. Let the learning curve begin with the variable speed pump! Here's a few things that I've run into so far...
• The pump doesn't push water through the jets any stronger than the old 1hp single speed (kind of surprising). I've got the pump set on Speed 4 which is the highest. Plan to use Speed 4 only until water is clean.
• It's actually louder than I expected it to be (not a huge deal though).
And, a few questions...
I had the pump running for about a 1/2 hour and the jets were barely pushing out any water. I turned it off, and bumped the handle on the DE filter. That seemed to help. Do you think that was just due to the pressure building that fast since the water isn't clean?
Of course I can't get the Raypak heater to fire up. I'm getting an error "PRS - Clean Filter Strainer". Anyone familiar with these heaters?
I need to review the SLAM procedure so that I can start following it. The pool company added 4 gallons of shock today. Is there anything that I should being doing considering we now have the new/different pump? Just curious.
Here's a pic of the new pump.
Thanks again!
• The pump doesn't push water through the jets any stronger than the old 1hp single speed (kind of surprising). I've got the pump set on Speed 4 which is the highest. Plan to use Speed 4 only until water is clean.
• It's actually louder than I expected it to be (not a huge deal though).
And, a few questions...
I had the pump running for about a 1/2 hour and the jets were barely pushing out any water. I turned it off, and bumped the handle on the DE filter. That seemed to help. Do you think that was just due to the pressure building that fast since the water isn't clean?
Of course I can't get the Raypak heater to fire up. I'm getting an error "PRS - Clean Filter Strainer". Anyone familiar with these heaters?
I need to review the SLAM procedure so that I can start following it. The pool company added 4 gallons of shock today. Is there anything that I should being doing considering we now have the new/different pump? Just curious.
Here's a pic of the new pump.
Thanks again!
- May 3, 2014
- 58,260
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
What pump did you install? Please modify your signature.
Why have the 'pool company' add 'shock'? What is the 'shock'? Run your own tests and follow the SLAM Process process. If you need to SLAM, your filter is plugging up and that is what is restricting your pump. Lower the flow rate on the pump to at least 1750 rpm (1/2 speed).
Why have the 'pool company' add 'shock'? What is the 'shock'? Run your own tests and follow the SLAM Process process. If you need to SLAM, your filter is plugging up and that is what is restricting your pump. Lower the flow rate on the pump to at least 1750 rpm (1/2 speed).
Signature is updated - forgot to do that, thanks!
The pool company that opens the pool adds the first round of shock. They didn't tell me what kind. I actually have to run out, so no time to test the water right now. I was planning to start testing tomorrow.
I reduced the pump to 1750 rpm. That really dropped the pressure on the filter and there isn't any water coming out of the jets now. Is that normal?
- May 3, 2014
- 58,260
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
No water? No, that is not normal. I would turn off the pump until you can clean the filter.
At 1750 rpm, the pump is barely "working". Doesn't seem to be sucking any water and the pressure on the filter is really low. Can you help me understand how cleaning will help it pull more water? By cleaning, I assume you mean to backwash and regenerate the DE? Bare with me - I'm no expert. I have to run out, so I'll turn it off for now.
Thanks again!
- May 3, 2014
- 58,260
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
If your filter pressure is low that implies a suction side leak or restriction. Check that your weir door is not stuck. Take the skimmer basket out and see if you can feel the water going into the suction pipe. Do not get your hand/fingers pulled into the pipe.
Are there bubbles/air in your pump basket lid?
Are there bubbles/air in your pump basket lid?