Pump motor failing, need advice.

JamesW

TFP Expert
Mar 2, 2011
23,144
The Intelliflo is the same front end as a WhisperFlo.

The IntelliFlo comes with a 073131 impeller and a 072928 diffuser.

If you put a 1.65 hp motor on a 073131 impeller, the motor would quickly burn up.

The impeller is probably a 073128.

Impeller......Total HP.

073126.........0.95
073127.........1.25
073128.........1.65
073129.........2.20
073130.........2.60
073131.........3.45

If you go with a 2.7 hp VS motor, you want to use a 073130 impeller and the correct 072927 diffuser.

You also want a seal and gaskets.




Note that there is a drip on the motor which has caused excessive corrosion.

I would probably go with a new Intelliflo over rebuilding this pump.
 
Last edited:

undrwater

Well-known member
The following is what I ordered from Inyo pools:
Order Items:
Tune Up Kit Pentair/Purex WhisperfloTune Up Kit Pentair/Purex Whisperflo GOKIT32
Shipping: Ground
Qty: 1
Price: $34.95
Total: $34.95
Impeller, 2 Hp Full 2 1/2 Hp Up (073130)Impeller, 2 Hp Full 2 1/2 Hp Up (073130) 5074-27D
Shipping: Ground
Qty: 1
Price: $89.99
Total: $89.99
V-Green 2.7 HP Square Flange 48Y Variable Speed Motor - ECM27SQUV-Green 2.7 HP Square Flange 48Y Variable Speed Motor - ECM27SQU ECM27SQU
Shipping: Ground
Qty: 1
Price: $699.99
Total: $699.99


Will the existing diffuser not work with the new kit?

If I rebuild the old motor, it will be for fun, and not be put back in the service of the pool. Can these motors be repurposed?
 

setsailsoon

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Will the existing diffuser not work with the new kit?
Sometimes there are two different diffusers for the impellers. One for the smaller ones and the other for the larger. If James says you need it, you need it.
 

undrwater

Well-known member
Everything came in today. While waiting, I decided to clean the DE filter since it was time. I also re-lubed the diverter valves.

The old diffuser has the part number on it, and it's the correct one. The new one is obviously correct, but has no identification stamp.

The old impeller has no stamp, but looks nearly exactly like the new one (which would be wrong for the old motor, right?).

I went ahead and used all the new parts, and got the motor set up. Tomorrow I will install it. I'll also add pics.

Of note: the thick (bonding?) wire that attaches to the outside of the motor was not attached. What are the consequences of that? The existing wire isn't long enough to reach where the motor will be (maybe that's why they didn't attach it?). Can I splice a length to it?

I'm tired!
 

setsailsoon

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I searched all through the NEC code one time to find the answer to this question. Couldn't find it so I decided to take the safest approach and use a new wire back to the old connection for the old motor. I would run a new bonding wire back to the point where the previous wire connected. If it was spliced to another wire be sure to use a proper new bonding splice connector. You can get these at big box stores in the electrical department. Use the same size wire as the rest of your bonding wire. For most residential pools this is #8 copper. There are a couple of different brands of connectors and Morris is common. Allen seems to know a lot about code requirements, maybe he can help. @ajw22 can you help?
 
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ajw22

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Jul 21, 2013
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Northern NJ
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Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
Use a direct burial rated copper split bolt (on right in picture) to splice bare #8 copper bonding wire together...

Copper_lugs_and_split_bolts.jpg
 
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JamesW

TFP Expert
Mar 2, 2011
23,144
The old impeller was cracked, so it's good that you got a new one.

Was the seal plate good?

Were the seal plate brass grommets good?
 

undrwater

Well-known member
Which is the seal plate? All the other components looked good.

I searched it up. that plate on the front. It was dirty, but otherwise in good shape. the brass grommets (threads, yes?) were also in good shape.
 

JamesW

TFP Expert
Mar 2, 2011
23,144
OK, sometimes the part number is difficult or impossible to find.

Hopefully, everything will work.
 

undrwater

Well-known member
It all works. It wasn't easy (of course). I've got it running now full speed, and no leaks.

I'm not done. I have no choice but to mount the controller somewhere else. The output pipe from the pump is blocking it {oh what fun threading the motor amongst all the pipes was!}.

Apparently there's a wifi module as well. Of COURSE I have to get that (or come up with a diy solution).

I'm tired again. I'll post pics tomorrow.
 

setsailsoon

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under,

I looked at the wifi link they sell and my take is it's not worth it. Almost $300 for a simple wifi that adds features I would never need even if I didn't have automation. Once you set the internal schedule it runs daily. If you really do want to start stop remotely a neat DIY alternative is just get a 3 HP pump start relay and trigger it with a cheap wifi switch board. Pump start relays are under $75 and wifi switch boards are under $20. Krain makes a nice switch with an outdoor housing.

Another neat feature the 2.7 hp v-drive has out of the box is an aux power supply that can be used for swg. My 1.65 has a superb digital input interface not available on the 2.7 but it lacks the aux power connector.

Chris
 
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