Psi question

[Macyc]

And where is the thermometer? I always just look at the temp on the screen of the easy touch

 

[Macyc]

No. But I had no reason to, if I’m in the deep end it’s wayyyy past my head. It’s hard to get my pole down there to brush. I have to extend it etc. I’ll measure it to be sure. How do I do that? I did measure the length and width myself.

 

[JamesW]

How do I do that?

Use the pole to see how deep it is.

Note where the water hits the pole and then pull up the pole and measure.

 

[Macyc]

Until I get the test kit I ordered in the mail, would this one work? I just noticed it in the garage.

 

[Macyc]

I couldn’t get directly in the middle and stand the pole straight, as close as I could get, the depth measured 8 ft 3 inches.

 

[Jimrahbe]

We do use the spa often. I also heat the entire pool often enough because this time of year, although warm enough for me, I have a disabled son and I heat it to 90 for his comfort at times also.

Macy,

Since the thermistor is after the heater, I would have thought as soon as the heater turned on, the hot water from the heater would make the automation think that the water temp was at the set point and it would just shut the heater off..

Maybe not...

As long as it is working, then nothing to worry about.

Thanks,

Jim R.

 

[JamesW]

The temperature sensor is after the heater, which is the wrong place.

As the heater turns on, the temperature sensor will read the heated water temperature.

 

[Macyc]

Ahhhh. Those arrows really helped. I see now. In spite of it being in the wrong place, somehow, it does in fact get warmed up to where it feels to me, to be what it says on the screen. When I hear the pool to 90, it feels like bath water. When I beat the spa to 102, after a while, i get too hot and turn it down.

 

[Flboy44]

I love that heater! It is still my #1 choice! Pool store has on that’s been sitting on the floor for 4 years, a cancelled sale! I’m waiting for them to give me a deal of a lifetime!

 

[JamesW]

Maybe it is using the heater's temperature sensor and not the automation's temperature sensor?

The next time you turn on the heater, watch the temperature reading on the automation to see if it jumps up about 10 to 16 degrees when the heater turns on.

 

[Macyc]

Ok, I will.

How will I ever get that calcium build up off the walls and floor? My arms ache thinking about it.

If I drain some of my pool and refill, will this bring hardness level down? How did it get too high to begin with? Guessing it’s been high for far too long. If the city water is too hard, will draining some and refilling even help?

 

[Jimrahbe]

Macy,

Unless you have results from a real test kit, you have no clue what your actual chemical levels are.

You really need to know you chemical levels before you can decide what actions to take.

Thanks,

Jim R.

 

[reggiehammond]

Between the pump running full speed half the day and the heater - you must be spending a fortune on this pool!

The pump only needs to run long enough and fast enough to do a few things:
1) Chlorinate the pool
2) Remove debris / skim surface

Many of us run our pumps at low RPM's 24 hours a day, 7 days a week. We generally like to always be skimming the surface of pool, and making chlorine, in smaller amounts, continuously.

Something to consider - but let's get that test kit ordered and received!

 

[Macyc]

So I turned the speed down to 2000. Setting is still at 12 hours a day. Should that be different? Also, when spa is on, that is set at the high rate also, should that be at 2000 as well?

Salt cell is set to 40 percent for pool and 2 percent for spa. Is that right? Maybe all this can wait on water levels.

There is a pool store nearby that is privately owned and run by a family, all same employees. I would trust them to give an accurate water test result level. Maybe I should bring a sample in while I’m waiting on the test kit I ordered?

 

[ajw22]

So I turned the speed down to 2000. Setting is still at 12 hours a day. Should that be different? Also, when spa is on, that is set at the high rate also, should that be at 2000 as well?

This where Your EasyTouch needs to be programmed to set a pump speed for the devices that are running:

• Low speed to just run SWG
• Medium speed to give the heater the 40 GPM it needs when generating heat
• High speed when the spa is on for good jet pressure

Salt cell is set to 40 percent for pool and 2 percent for spa. Is that right? Maybe all this can wait on water levels.

What size IntelliChlor cell do you have? IC20? 40? 60?

How many gallons in your pool?

There is a pool store nearby that is privately owned and run by a family, all same employees. I would trust them to give an accurate water test result level. Maybe I should bring a sample in while I’m waiting on the test kit I ordered?

We don't trust any pool store tests.

 

[Macyc]

Oh boy, I’ve no idea how to set pump speeds

I have the intelichlor ic40.

Pool is about 25,000 gallons.

 

[Macyc]

Wait, maybe I do. I switched it for pool and saw the screen for different thing like cleaner, jets etc.

 

[ajw22]

Can you take screen shots of what you are looking at and post them?

 

[ajw22]

Running your IC40 at 40% for 12 hours/day in your 25K pool will generate 1.3ppm of FC per day.

That may be adequate now but in the summer the average pool in your area requires 3 to 4 ppm of FC per day. It also depends on your CYA level.

That is all why you need your test kit.

I would up your % to 80% or run your pump 24/7 to get 2.6 ppm/day of FC.

And by June be running your SWG at 70% for 16 hours or 45% for 24 hours to get at least 3ppm/day.

BTW, PoolMath Effects of Adding calculates this for you.

 

[Macyc]

Here’s what I am looking at when I am in settings and go to intteliflow and flip thru pump 1 speeds.