jedigrover
Gold Supporter
- Sep 13, 2010
- 333
- Pool Size
- 21000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Hayward Aqua Rite (T-15)
Also, if it has to be replumbed, it looks like you're going to need a new union for the SWG.
I recently had a small leak coming from a 1/2 threaded plug. Found the female end that is part of a TEE, had a split in it. I added extra LC and let it mixed. turned off pump, then applied JB Weld Plastic Bonder on the female end (in the split), screwed in the plug and sealed around it (I don't need to have access to that port). Let it dry overnight (even though it says it cured in 6 hrs) and started pump next morning and all is good.Your friend has shared a link to a Home Depot product they think you would be interested in seeing.
J-B Weld 2 oz. Waterweld 8277 maybe try this
This is what you get in the package. I point-out the O-ring and union groove to let you know that the O-ring barely stays in place. In fact, it actually sticks-out of the groove a bit and kept wanting to fall-out (when installed horizontally) which made my last bit of assembly a bit challenging. The yellow plug on the control module power cord is something I installed since I had already planned to simply plug my unit to an outlet without a timer. Not shown in this picture is one black "jumper" included with the contents that is used to convert the factory-configured unit from 240V to 120V. You'll see it below. I had already installed mine.
Yes, I saw that, and the plumber pointed it out too. Also possibly the blue screw on connectors. If need be I will contact Circupool for a replacement.Also, if it has to be replumbed, it looks like you're going to need a new union for the SWG.
Good thought. I am going to check that. Although it looks like it is coming out from under the cemented union, looks can be deceptive and I would be thrilled if its just the o-ring.I can't tell where it's leaking from, but it might just be the o-ring on the SWG coupler. I had a heck of a time keeping the o-ring in place during the install. @Texas Splash had the same problem...
View attachment 429858
You can unscrew the coupler and check reseat the o-ring or, if your plumber's coming back, let him fix it.
Yes, he reamed it out with a drill attachment. That was my concern too, but looked like the last and only option other then re-plumbing everything. I got a J-B Weld putty for water use. Its in a link I posted above. I think I am going to try that, over the liquid J-B Weld, but first going to check the o-rings. Unless you feel strongly about the original J-B Weld you are referring to.Looks like it's coming from the fitting he re-used. I think you said he used a socket-saver type tool (one that cuts the old pipe out). I haven't tried those, I've always done the torch & 2" hole saw method & never had an issue. But it certainly looks like that fitting didn't re-weld very well.
You can shut everything down, get the water out & get it nice and dry, then try some JB-Weld on that joint. I can't guarantee it will hold, but it has saved my butt a couple of times when there was just an itty-bitty leak and 2 fittings were too close. That looks like more than an itty-bitty leak though.
The close-welded connections were one of my concerns when you first posted photos of your pad. (I have some like that too--from a younger me trying to be overzealous in making it neat & using the fewest fittings possible).
I contacted Cirupool before performing an install of the RP-60 plus, and they assured me that the only portion of the system that is directional is the flow switch, and the cell can flow either way, but from my experience, it's much easier to see chlorine production if the corded side of the cell is the inlet side.I called CircuPool the other day and specifically asked about vertical installation. While the flow switch needs to be on the upward flow leg (as shown) the SWCG can be on either. But they were a little vague on if the SWCG only has 1 flow direction. Their graphics on the website show the end with the wire connection to be start of flow (i.e lets say left to right) but when in vertical position the end with the wire is shown on the bottom so flow is opposite way. Do you have an confirmation that flow can be either direction in the SWCG?
Disconnected the cell and the o-rings were seated fine. But what in the world is this in my cell? Looks like a foreign object that was in the pipe. Could it have been something from the chlorine feeder that I removed? Or a part from a valve upstream in the plumbing? Assuming it doesn’t belong.I can't tell where it's leaking from, but it might just be the o-ring on the SWG coupler. I had a heck of a time keeping the o-ring in place during the install. @Texas Splash had the same problem...
View attachment 429858
You can unscrew the coupler and check reseat the o-ring or, if your plumber's coming back, let him fix it.
Me too! I looked at a parts diagram as well, and looked on the feeder, which hasn't gone into the trash yet, and didn't seem to belong. Glad I found it. So I used the J-B Weld WaterWeld epoxy putty and stuffed the entire thing around the connection. I am letting it cure extra long. It says 1 hour cure time, and even though it's hot outside, I am giving it 3 hours to cure. Hoping I have plugged it up. I think this stuff should be called Cajun Navy Duct Tape.Amazing! Look like part of an old check valve? I looked at the parts diagram for the chlorinator and didn't see anything like that. You may need to post a new thread. "What is this?" threads seem to get lots of eyes.
Hey, believe it or not, I used the J-B Weld epoxy and the generic Harbor Freight epoxy for a project in my hangar, gluing magnets to wall paneling, and the Harbor Freight brand was superior. Seemed it held better. Fort this project on my PVC pipe, I tried the J-B Weld WaterWorld epoxy puddy, and hoping it worked well. It is curing now. Maybe I should have used that first to try to fill the crack, then the puddy. We shall see.I recently had a small leak coming from a 1/2 threaded plug. Found the female end that is part of a TEE, had a split in it. I added extra LC and let it mixed. turned off pump, then applied JB Weld Plastic Bonder on the female end (in the split), screwed in the plug and sealed around it (I don't need to have access to that port). Let it dry overnight (even though it says it cured in 6 hrs) and started pump next morning and all is good.
View attachment 429853
I had a friend in college who drove an old MG. That car was completely held together by JB Weld.Hey, believe it or not, I used the J-B Weld epoxy and the generic Harbor Freight epoxy for a project in my hangar, gluing magnets to wall paneling, and the Harbor Freight brand was superior. Seemed it held better. Fort this project on my PVC pipe, I tried the J-B Weld WaterWorld epoxy puddy, and hoping it worked well. It is curing now. Maybe I should have used that first to try to fill the crack, then the puddy. We shall see.
Check your heater? Looks like it could be part of a blow-off valve that a heater might use, and your heater is upstream.Its obviously old and appears to have a broken prong
I think you're right.Looking more at your photo and the assembly I posted above, I'm about 95% certain that's what it is.