Just found an error message in the pro logic p4. "No cell power" related to the SWG. Any thoughts @JamesW?
Pro logic, no cell power
- Thread starter jblizzle
- Start date
Does it say No cell power 1 or no cell power 2?
Go to Diagnostics and see what the readings show. Then, press the + button to reverse polarity and see what the numbers show.
Check the yellow 20 amp fuse.
Go to Diagnostics and see what the readings show. Then, press the + button to reverse polarity and see what the numbers show.
Check the yellow 20 amp fuse.
I need to go look, but this video may be just what I was looking for.
I will have to pull the board to take a look:
I will have to pull the board to take a look:
Well my soldering skills are lacking. The error went away but as soon as the relay got thrown it popped again. On my way to a friend's house now that has more skills than me 
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Didn't you say before that it wouldn't generate at amps above 8? I swear it seems like mine is often above 8 amps and wondering if that is what drove toward this solder failure
Well we didn't even try to resolder it because the normally closed side was open unlike the other similar relays on the board where you could check continuity. So I need to find one of those relays tomorrow because my solderer is leaving town on Wednesday
I would have tried to solder it. The relays rarely go bad.
I'm not sure where you can get a replacement relay on short notice.
I'm not sure where you can get a replacement relay on short notice.
Well I'm special like I said there was no continuity between pins on this relay like there was on the other two of the same relays on the board
like I said there was no continuity between pins on this relay like there was on the other two of the same relays on the board
Although he did just remind me that we checked the continuity of the pin that I attached to neighboring pins and there was continuity. So my solder job was at least somewhat connected however the board was still throwing the same error
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Just ordered a relay off of Amazon where all the reviews were saying it fixed their Hayward motherboard
One of the reviews also mentioned using a white wire from that pin over to some of the other pins on the same trace as the soldering pad might be missing at this point
One of the reviews also mentioned using a white wire from that pin over to some of the other pins on the same trace as the soldering pad might be missing at this point
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New relay arrived at 7pm tonight and my friend had it mostly replaced by the time I got there at 7:30.
As you can see, JamesW, sometimes the relays do go bad lol ... I'm just lucky
Given some of the solder pad was missing and the discoloration of the trace, he added a couple jumper wires to additional pins on the same trace as well.
Going to try to put it back together in the morning and hope everything is up and running.
As you can see, JamesW, sometimes the relays do go bad
lol ... I'm just luckyGiven some of the solder pad was missing and the discoloration of the trace, he added a couple jumper wires to additional pins on the same trace as well.
Going to try to put it back together in the morning and hope everything is up and running.
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Ok, looking at the circuit board, it does look more damaged than most.
I think that the failure of the relay is relatively rare.
If you're running over 8 amps, that can contribute to extra heat and stress on the components.
Hopefully, it will work when you put it all back together.
I think that the failure of the relay is relatively rare.
If you're running over 8 amps, that can contribute to extra heat and stress on the components.
Hopefully, it will work when you put it all back together.
Success!!! 
I put the board back in this morning and no more warning and the cell was generating.
As you know the cell was reading a VERY high temperature in the past (115 deg) and thus the salt level was being reported lower than my Taylor test.
Oddly, when I fired it back up, the cell temperature was within 2 degrees of the water temperature and the salt level was reading up where I would have expected it to be.
I would not not think that a bad relay would impact the temp or the salt display.
I could maybe think that the board damage was adding too much resistance and thus the amp draw was lower than it should have been which could impact the salt table look up, but not sure how the temperature reading would be affected.
I did notice that the cell temperature did jump up in the the 90s, but that was after the solar heater had been turned on, so likely due to the very warm water initially running through the panels.
Also the current draw I saw this morning was up around 9 amps
I will try to look at the readings throughout the day over the weekend and see if the temperature reading is somehow fixed and matching the water temp sensor now when the solar heating is stable.
So far so good!!!
I put the board back in this morning and no more warning and the cell was generating.
As you know the cell was reading a VERY high temperature in the past (115 deg) and thus the salt level was being reported lower than my Taylor test.
Oddly, when I fired it back up, the cell temperature was within 2 degrees of the water temperature and the salt level was reading up where I would have expected it to be.
I would not not think that a bad relay would impact the temp or the salt display.
I could maybe think that the board damage was adding too much resistance and thus the amp draw was lower than it should have been which could impact the salt table look up, but not sure how the temperature reading would be affected.
I did notice that the cell temperature did jump up in the the 90s, but that was after the solar heater had been turned on, so likely due to the very warm water initially running through the panels.
Also the current draw I saw this morning was up around 9 amps
I will try to look at the readings throughout the day over the weekend and see if the temperature reading is somehow fixed and matching the water temp sensor now when the solar heating is stable.
So far so good!!!
Well bummer. Just found the same no cell power error. Not sure how I got it to show error 1 vs. 2 before. Suppose I will pull the board and see if anything is obvious.
Any thoughts?
Any thoughts?
Check diagnostics. Scroll through the default readings. Check the yellow fuse.
You might have to remove the board again and check to see the solder failed.
It would probably help to get the amperage below 8.0.
You might have to remove the board again and check to see the solder failed.
It would probably help to get the amperage below 8.0.
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