Pre pool opening (white water mold)

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Been closing the cover more regularly haven’t seen it again.

Added final treatment dose of ahhsome today. Water and Chems are looking decent. Ph is out of range but that always happens

I’m not dancing and I’m not saying a word . That seems to wreck everything 🤣
 
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Ok, so I’m going to let the pool store close us this year. We intend to open and close ourselves moving forward . I know y’all said you can help us with that.

They are starting to schedule closings and told me to “shock” the pool before they come as the product they use (ez pool) only has an oxidizing shock, metal magic and algaecide.

Upon opening (which they did) I refused the chems but let them do the opening


Should I do the same for closing ?
Add chems myself and let them blow the lines etc ? And could you guide me through the chems when time comes
 
Badpoolmom said:
They are starting to schedule closings and told me to “shock” the pool before they come as the product they use (ez pool) only has an oxidizing shock, metal magic and algaecide.
Click to expand...

What is your CYA?

What algaecide would the closing company use?

The only one we recommend for closing is Polyquat 60.

Basically, add liquid chlorine up to at least half SLAM level. Then let FC drop to high end of your FC/CYA range and add the PQ60 and let circulate for 24 hours before closing.

Algaecide - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com www.troublefreepool.com

The following is Buckman Labs’ recommendation on how to use Polyquat 60 for closing your pool for the season.

As they recommend for proper winterization, the pool should be "shocked" with about 5-10ppm chlorine to destroy any lingering oxidant demand and remove any residual ammonia or chloramine, etc. After a couple of days, adjust the pH back to 7.2-7.6 and then add Polyquat 60 at the maximum rate as instructed per the label. This approach allows you to receive the highest benefit from both chemicals.
 
Ty. I will read that

Currently cya is 40. I don’t intend to close until October

I have several bottles for proteam polyquat 60 from their other openings and closings
As well as several bottles of metal magic
 
As mentioned my current cya is 40
I raise fc to 8 daily (which is 1/2 slam level) am I running it too hot ?
Normally by the time I test (once per day now) it’s fallen to 4 or 5
 
Badpoolmom said:
Currently cya is 40. I don’t intend to close until October
Click to expand...
That should be plenty late to skip the polyquat60. Your choices are:

1). close at half slam and use PQ

2). close at full slam.




Badpoolmom said:
I raise fc to 8 daily (which is 1/2 slam level) am I running it too hot ?
Click to expand...
You need to remain above min after the daily losses happen. 'Hot' is relative to the daily loss. If you're losing 1ppm daily in the late season, 3 over min is hot because it will take 3 days to reach min. If you're losing 4ppm per day, on the other hand, 3 over min is inadequate.

Your season had unusual loss while straightening out all that went down prior to TFP, so it's been hard to judge which loss came from what. Hopefully we get to the predictability we all see and love before the season is done
 
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So remember a few weeks ago I was seeing an air bubble in the pump? Where used to I couldn’t see water even moving . Now I can clearly see the water pouring into the pump. The water level continues to reduce in the pump.

I called the pb he said to turn the pump off , mark the water line with electrical tape. Turn pump back on and see if water level dropped . It did . Approx 3/4 of an inch.

What does this indicate ?

He said to monitor loss for 24 hours
 
Badpoolmom said:
Still trying to understand how gunk is still collecting
Click to expand...
It's still deep in there needing to be removed. Clearly it was way worse than we thought originally, but progress is progress so it's a win. :)

Badpoolmom said:
What does this indicate ?
Click to expand...
Air getting in on the suction side. Check your weir doors that they're flapping away freely. They stick at times or get jammed with a twig (etc) and are the easiest explanation.

Water level is another frequent cause of suction issues out of the blue on a newish pool. We've been real cool by me at night recently and your cover should help with evaporation alot, but it still may have dipped just enough to matter.
 
Badpoolmom said:
So remember a few weeks ago I was seeing an air bubble in the pump? Where used to I couldn’t see water even moving . Now I can clearly see the water pouring into the pump. The water level continues to reduce in the pump.

I called the pb he said to turn the pump off , mark the water line with electrical tape. Turn pump back on and see if water level dropped . It did . Approx 3/4 of an inch.

What does this indicate ?
Click to expand...

Is your pool plumbed with flex PVC? Unfortunately fiberglass pool installers like to use flex pvc.

It can indicate a restriction in a suction line pipe and your pump unable to get the volume of water it needs.

Your pool could be developing a problem like @Casey had. Read...

Imagine Illusion 40 Complete 10/19/21

Why can't you run the pipes the other way to the skimmer and just go around the deck passed the slide.
www.troublefreepool.com www.troublefreepool.com
 
This is about the only pic I’m finding (hub prob has more ) maybe this does look flexy . The gray handle is the main drain, immediately left of it is skimmer IMG_6490.png
 
Yup, looks like they used flex PVC is some places on the suction lines.
 

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