Post-construction Start-up

FlapjackMcCoy

Bronze Supporter
Aug 13, 2019
134
North Carolina
Hello, I missed the boat on having a construction thread but will try to make up for it by documenting the post-construction water startup. Here are some pictures of where it is today. It was mostly clear before they started, but after the concrete and the dust from the concrete stamp this is where I am at. Yes that is concrete sealer on the tanning ledge, I hope it brushes away or breaks down on it's own eventually. I'm not going to say anything because sometimes the cure is worse than the sickness. Send a message out to the PB this morning to see if I can bring the water up and run the filter. Any suggestions/warnings about getting this water filtered? Not sure if it is OK to run it through the pump, or heater, or SWG. Thanks

IMG_20200327_091114661.jpgIMG_20200327_091148972_HDR.jpgIMG_20200327_091231297.jpg
 
I would get your pool builder out ASAP. A couple of things I see:

- I see no hoses in the pool. Did you stop filling? If you did, you run the risk of getting a ring on the plaster where you stopped.
- The concrete sealer is all over the tanning ledge. Did the pool builder's crew do that? Seems very sloppy to me, and illogical why they would do that step between the plaster and fill.
- That water is really cloudy. That is from the concrete work?
- I would defer to the PB on any startup of equipment.
 
I would get your pool builder out ASAP. A couple of things I see:

- I see no hoses in the pool. Did you stop filling? If you did, you run the risk of getting a ring on the plaster where you stopped.
- The concrete sealer is all over the tanning ledge. Did the pool builder's crew do that? Seems very sloppy to me, and illogical why they would do that step between the plaster and fill.
- That water is really cloudy. That is from the concrete work?
- I would defer to the PB on any startup of equipment.
It's a fiberglass pool and they had to lower the water to get in to take off the forms and smooth out the coping edge. Yes cloudiness is from the concrete work and sand from the stamped edge. I'm not going to mention the sealer on the tanning ledge, I'd rather fully research and take care of it myself.
 
I would NOT run that stuff through your heater, SWG cell, or filter. What I would do is bypass everything except the filter. For the filter I would put some pillow stuffing or a couple of throw away T-shirts in the skimmer basket. BUT you have to check on it often to make sure you have a good flow of water through it to the pump. You may need to replace the stuff in the basket often as well as it fills up with that mess.

Better safe than sorry!
 
The white stuff actually clumped together and floated on the surface in the skimmer so I just went out there every once in awhile and scooped it out. BTW that stuff is what they spread on the stamped concrete before they stamped it. The way the PB explained it to me the heater has a thermostat like a car so the only time water flows through it is when it is running. Now the SWG I have no way to bypass but I do have it completely shut off. Thanks for the tip with the skimmer basket. PB told me to keep the filter running and go out there occasionally and brush the bottom to stir it up. I noticed when I get some of the bigger debris near the main drain the pump is not too happy about that, so I am going to start sweeping it to the center and will have to go in and remove it manually. PB said until we get most of the little pebbles and stuff out he does not recommend using the robot.
 
The way the PB explained it to me the heater has a thermostat like a car so the only time water flows through it is when it is running.

I do not believe that is true. Water is always running through the heater unless you installed an external heater bypass.

Please put model numbers in your signature for all of your "Jandy Everything" equipment.
 
Heater is a JXi400N and I just scanned the manual. Hard to tell but it looks like it has a built in bypass but there is also an optional manual bypass you can install. Was pleasantly surprised this morning to wake up to a crystal clear pool. There was a lot of dirt and debris on the bottom though, so I swept as much as I could into piles and we used a broom and dustpan to get it out. For the rest we borrowed our neighbors vacuum and that made quick work of it. Then got to work on the chemicals and the only thing that was way off was the Alkalinity, it was at 60 and the Viking manual recommends 125-150 so took care of that. PB also gave us some blue syrupy stuff to put in yesterday, that might have made a difference.
IMG_20200328_083830535.jpg
IMG_20200328_083849108.jpg
IMG_20200328_083912655.jpg
IMG_20200328_083943272.jpg
IMG_20200328_091122377.jpg
IMG_20200328_112542844.jpg
IMG_20200328_124625938.jpg
IMG_20200328_151056010.jpg
IMG_20200328_151103711.jpg
IMG_20200328_190637678.jpg
 

Enjoying this content?

Support TFP with a donation.

Give Support
The water IS looking awesome!!!

The dirt situation will get better when you get the decking done. Even then you will want a way to get dirt and such out of your spa. I could see a turkey baster working very well for that small of an area.
 
Thanks! Turkey baster is a good idea. I was also looking at those pool dust buster things. Any recommendations? The pool shell manual says 125-150 and the test kit says for fiberglass 120-150. Currently it's at 110. So 60 was fine? The PH was jumping around wildly like what is described for low TA. Todays readings were:

FC - 0
PH - 7.8
TA - 110

I added some chlorine and PH down and will test again later. Kids are dying to get in but they will have to wait :)
 
Thread Status
Hello , This thread has been inactive for over 60 days. New postings here are unlikely to be seen or responded to by other members. For better visibility, consider Starting A New Thread.