Poollife NST prime tablets

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coryg said:
How long after putting the liquid chlorine is it ok to test.
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20 mins with good circulation to see that you reached target level. After that try to test/add every 2 to 3 hours at first, without having to confirm the FC after. It's a best practice but you'll blow through your supplies in a day or two.

The testing will tell you how often you should be adding more.

Usually, if you hit it every 2 to 3 hoirs on day 1, the FC holds 4 to 6 hours on day two, allowing alot more time for errands and such. By day 3, it's holding 8 to 12 hours which is plenty of time to have to work on Monday.

You can dose early at any time to buy yourself the next block of time away if you need to leave for whatever reason.

The more effort you put in, the quicker it goes no matter how bad it might be. If life doesn't allow you to put the effort in, the process still works with 2 adds a day, it just takes longer.

Brush and vac at least once daily. Scrub every inch where algae may be hiding in plain sight. Ladder rails hold a gallon or two of old water each. Auto fills, all up in the skimmer, light niches, etc. Cycle any water features twice a day for a few mins to clear them (if applicable).

You got this !!!
 
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I have to ask, your tests seemed ok. Why are you SLAMMING? Was your water cloudy or visible algae? You haven’t indicated what your CC was. Is your water clear? Are you in a slam or just inquiring about the process. You seem to be adding chlorine on a whim, are you testing prior to additions and targeting how much to add to bring your chlorine to a specific level?
 
I forgot to add. Switch to 10ml pool samples for FC. Each drop is .5 FC and you'll save 2.5X the supplies. There is no need for .2 resolution.

Take your SLAM target of 16 for example. Whether you test a 15.5 or a 15.8, it's close enough and that you're 15+ is the important #. Or you overshot a skootch and it's 16.5 vs 16.2.

For regular operation, a 2.X sucks no matter the resolution, while a 8.X is golden for most CYA levels.
 
Lake Placid said:
I have to ask, your tests seemed ok. Why are you SLAMMING? Was your water cloudy or visible algae? You haven’t indicated what your CC was. Is your water clear? Are you in a slam or just inquiring about the process. You seem to be adding chlorine on a whim, are you testing prior to additions and targeting how much to add to bring your chlorine to a specific level?
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I was following one of your previous statement. I believe it is attached as a quote. It looks like a typo got me
 
Pool has changed in last couple of days. It is blue now I guess from all the cleaning. It was clear Thursday but is a little cloudy now. I cut grass yesterday and got a lot in the pool. Did my best to remove all the dust, grass and whatever else got in the pool. I suppose what I did by adding 2.5 gallons of chlorine is a decent shocking.
 

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So now y’all have sparked my interest in a SWG. Which is the best unit/brand? I research a lot before committing to purchases like this. I prefer bells and whistles that make things easier or in some cases cool.
 
coryg said:
. I prefer bells and whistles that make things easier or in some cases cool.
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Stick with Hayward so your automation 'talks' to it. You'll be able to adjust the SWG through the app.

With a long and hot season, you want the biggest one they make which is for 40k gallons. It's a little under 3X your volume and the unit will last that much longer for only a little cost increase. The ROI is awesome and the bulk of the cost is getting in the game with the base unit. The install costs the same for any unit so that's a wash.
 
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Tested chlorine and CYA this morning.
FC= 8.8 ppm
CC= .2 ppm
CYA= 40 ppm


What is the relation of combined chlorine to FC? Should I worry about CC or just focus on free chlorine?
 
Use a 10 ml water sample for the FAS DPD test. No need for 0.2 ml accuracy.
The CC at or below 0.5 is negligible. CC does not need to be measured except at the end of a SLAM process.
 
What is the ideal numbers for chemicals and such in a pool. I see that pool math gives a range but I would like to get to near perfect and use as a base line and adjust accordingly.
 
There is no ideal. Every pool water and environment is different. We provide ranges such that if you are within those, your system does not need special monitoring. Some of us cannot keep certain parameters in range, such as CH, and thus monitor CSI, etc.
 

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