Pool Pump with No Capacitor?

[xJustxJordanx]

First time homeowner AND pool owner here, so please bear with me. Looking for help on my pool pump.

When we moved in, the pool was disgusting, but the pump worked fine. Replaced a seal on the filter, SLAM, and we were going from green to blue, awesome. Then the pool pump stopped. Could turn it on, but it would just hum. Pool pump info. It's one with a switch and two speeds. I start troubleshooting on my own, and realize that the likely culprit is the capacitor, as the impeller is clear and not seized. Watch a few youtube tutorials and it seems like an extremely easy fix. I take off the back cover (it doesn't have that hump on the top like some do) and this is what I see. It looks like there is a 'seat' for a capacitor, and posts to secure a bracket to, but nowhere to be found is a capacitor or bracket or even leads to connect to it. As far as I can tell, an overwhelming number of pumps use some sort of capacitor, but mine just doesn't have one. What's more, is the company that makes this pump (StarkUSA) has no sort of website I can find.

During our first few months in the new house, we quickly realize that this was a quick flip job and certain "renovations" were not done in the correct manner. I was wondering if this might be one of those instances where something was rigged to just barely work and pass inspection rather than being fixed properly. Any info on my specific pool pump or what my problem might be or a way to contact Stark or any advice at all would be very helpful.

EDIT: So as far as I can tell I have a single-phase motor (which doesn't utilize a capacitor) and the problem lies within my centrifugal switch. Unfortunately, this is underneath that giant metal plate, and even if I could get to it, I wouldn't know what to do after. Still looking for a solution.

 

[mas985]

It is resistive start motor. Not common but they exist. The phase shift in the starter winding is provided by the resistance in the winding. It is enough to start the motor but is very inefficient.

If neither speed works then the problem is likely in the starter winding. Unfortunately, there isn't much to do to fix them when they don't start. Usually requires a new motor.

 

[xJustxJordanx]

It is resistive start motor. Not common but they exist. The phase shift in the starter winding is provided by the resistance in the winding. It is enough to start the motor but is very inefficient.

If neither speed works then the problem is likely in the starter winding. Unfortunately, there isn't much to do to fix them when they don't start. Usually requires a new motor.

Ah okay. I've seen some people mentioning the centrifugal switch, but it mine has one it is hidden. This is likely the issue. Looks like I'll be in the market for a new one. Thanks for the tip! Was trying to save money by repairing this one but it looks like that is a no go.

 

[Steve_in_C]

If you are replacing, be sure to research VS pumps. A big investment but may pay you back relatively quickly in electricity costs. I wish I had one.

 

[borjis]

oh man I hear that.
Isn't it fun to be on the receiving end of the previous owner doing the bare minimum?
ugh.

Had my fair share of that.

 

[Steve_in_C]

If you have one of the resistive start motors (old and uncommon), it will likely be less efficient than a capacitor start motor. Look at your nameplate watts (volts x amps = watts). Since your's is a 1HP pump, you should have about 1000 watts of draw, maybe 950 watts. If it draws more than this, your economics leans even more to replacement.

 

[xJustxJordanx]

If you are replacing, be sure to research VS pumps. A big investment but may pay you back relatively quickly in electricity costs. I wish I had one.

The one that died was VS. hoping to get one in the future. I don't really get how they save money though. If you run it at the lower speed, wouldn't it just take longer to do the same job, and use roughly the same electricity?

 

[xJustxJordanx]

If you have one of the resistive start motors (old and uncommon), it will likely be less efficient than a capacitor start motor. Look at your nameplate watts (volts x amps = watts). Since your's is a 1HP pump, you should have about 1000 watts of draw, maybe 950 watts. If it draws more than this, your economics leans even more to replacement.

Thanks for this comment. I didn't realize that this was the case, I will double check right now.

 

[mknauss]

wouldn't it just take longer to do the same job, and use roughly the same electricity?

No. Pool pumps primary purpose are to distribute the chlorine (or create it with a SWCG if you have one) and to skim the surface. Secondary is filtering. You only need to run your pump long enough to distribute or create your chlorine and skim the surface. Chemistry keeps your pool water clear, not the filter.

A VS pump can effectively do the above at low rpm and low electrical usage. It matters not how much water is moved, only that the above items are achieved.

 

[markayash]

I am in Atlanta and my power bill dropped around $45 a month or more going to a VS. Not required but during the summer i like to run it all the time. I was shocked when i looked at the power comparing last may to this year and the KW used

 

[mas985]

The one that died was VS. hoping to get one in the future. I don't really get how they save money though. If you run it at the lower speed, wouldn't it just take longer to do the same job, and use roughly the same electricity?

Are you sure it was a VS (i.e. multiple speeds > 3) or was it really a two speed pump? A VS is a completely different design and requires a special drive unit to run. If it was a VS pump, then what I posted before about resistive start does not apply. However, if it was a two speed pump, then it could still be resistive start.