Pool pump hums but doesn't run normally

[ewinter]

We had a thunderstorm Friday morning and when I went out to the pool in the afternoon, I saw that the pump was not working. I'm not sure if there was a power surge or if water got into the connection between the timer and the pump cord or what happened. The pump hums and then shuts off. I tried the following:
1. flipping the breaker
2. banging the pump
3. put my hand through in to check for debris in the impeller - I didn't feel anything there
3. removed the back cover of the pump, checked that the shaft rotates freely with a screwdriver
4. thought about replacing the capacitor - but see attached photo. Does this pump (Harris model 156578) have a capacitor?

What could be the issue? Should I just replace the pump? Do you think I should take the pump apart and see if there is debris in the impeller that I couldn't feel?

 

[Texas Splash]

That appears to be a split phase motor which would have no caps. It also appears to have quite a bit of corrosion which could indicate there has been an internal leak for some time now. There motor shaft might spin, but other internal damage has already been done.

How old is that motor by the way?

 

[ewinter]

The pump is five years old. I have never seen evidence of any leakage around the pump - could there have been an internal leak without me seeing any water? Maybe it's corroded because water got under the end cap? Is there anything more I can check to fix before replacing?

 

[ewinter]

And do you think that this is related to the fact that the wiring got wet the same day? (I used to have the wiring covered, but neglected to cover this season, and this was the first time that the pump was running during the rain.)

 

[Texas Splash]

could there have been an internal leak without me seeing any water? Maybe it's corroded because water got under the end cap? Is there anything more I can check to fix before replacing?

Usually a leak come from the shaft seal inside and can travel just about anywhere in the motor. Rear cover? .... if it was never on tightly or damaged perhaps. I don't see much hope for that motor, but I'll tag @JamesW for another opinion.

 

[JamesW]

There is no capacitor on that motor.

Disconnect the power wires and check the resistance from L1 to L2, L1 to ground and L2 to ground.

Do you have a bonding grid?

Can you show the motor label?

 

[ewinter]

We do not have a bonding grid. See below for the label - is that what you are looking for?

Pardon my ignorance -but what do you mean by L1, L2, and ground - do you mean on the plug itself?

 

[JamesW]

L1 and L2 are where the power wires connect.

Ground is where the ground screw connects.

You can test at the plug prongs.

 

[ewinter]

It tested the plug prongs. L1 to L2 is about 2.0, though it jumps around when the lead ends move. L1 to ground and L2 to ground both are 0.

 

[JamesW]

What is the voltage at the terminals when the pump tries to start?

What is the amperage when the pump tries to start?

 

[ewinter]

How would I test that?

 

[JamesW]

Do not do anything that you are not sure you can do safely.

You can put the leads on the terminals to check the voltage as the motor turns on.

You can clamp around one wire to check current.

Can you show the plug for the motor?

YouTube has lots of videos about using a multimeter and clamp ammeter if you need some help with that.

Do not do anything that you are not sure you can do safely.

 

[ewinter]

See picture of the plug. I use a converter to convert from the standard plug to the type that my electrical receptacle takes.

 

[ewinter]

I am checking out videos on testing the voltage and current.

 

[JamesW]

You can get one of these.

Check power quality by monitoring voltage, line and power factor.

Also displays Volts, amps, watts, Hz, and VA

https://www.harborfreight.com/kill-a-watt-electric-monitor-93519.html

 

[ewinter]

Thanks for the link! Will this help me figure out if my pump is fixable? Do you think it's possible that the issue may be something I could easily fix?

 

[JamesW]

Do you think it's possible that the issue may be something I could easily fix?

I am not sure what the problem is.

The voltage and Amperage measurements should help diagnose the issue.

 

[1poolman1]

There is no capacitor on that motor.

Disconnect the power wires and check the resistance from L1 to L2, L1 to ground and L2 to ground.

Do you have a bonding grid?

Can you show the motor label?

View attachment 596001

Through-bolt motors are so inexpensive that they are disposable items. If that is a 1hp motor, it can be as little as $100.00. Unfortunately, they do cost nearly the same as a new pump that uses them by the time you get the appropriate seal and gaskets/O rings/your labor. That same pump at Doheny's Pool (labeled Dohneny, not Harris) is $160.00 if 1hp. Best just to get new at this point.

 

[ewinter]

@JamesW I ordered a device to test voltage & amperage, but it blinks and says OVERLOAD when I plug the pump in.

 

[ewinter]

Through-bolt motors are so inexpensive that they are disposable items. If that is a 1hp motor, it can be as little as $100.00. Unfortunately, they do cost nearly the same as a new pump that uses them by the time you get the appropriate seal and gaskets/O rings/your labor. That same pump at Doheny's Pool (labeled Dohneny, not Harris) is $160.00 if 1hp. Best just to get new at this point.

@1poolman1 Thanks, if you do not think the pump is worth fixing, I will just replace it. I am looking at the filter, it's a Hayward S-180T. The manual says that it is 40 GPM. My pool has about 12,000 gallons (15'x30' oval, 4 ft deep). Do you think a 1 HP pump is the appropriate size?