Pool Perfect+ Phos Free with SWG and other SWG questions?

Quinten

Bronze Supporter
Apr 7, 2021
50
Las Vegas, NV
I'm planning on getting a SWG in the next few weeks and while reading up on the circupool, it states not to add chemicals directly into the skimmer. The directions on Pool perfect state to add directly into the skimmer so I would think that wouldn't be a good idea with a SWG? It also states not to use dry acid so...

OK to just dilute the pool perfect and add it to the deep end?

When I use the dry acid I had always dissolved it in a bucket of water first and added to the deep end. I will switch to the muriatic acid in the jugs, but should I just toss the rest of the dry acid or will dissolving it and adding to the deep end be ok until it's used up?

Was looking at getting the circupool core 55 (16,000 gal gunite pool with pentair VSP) and was wondering if the SWG cell needs to be removed during the cooler winter months? I'm in Las Vegas where the temps don't get below 32*F in the winter, I didn't see anything to replace the SWG cell though? I thought there was something to put in place of the SWG cell during the cooler months?

Thanks
 
I suggest you thoroughly review Pool School - Trouble Free Pool

There is no need for 'Pool Perfect'. Especially no Phos Free. And NEVER, and I mean NEVER, use dry acid in a pool with a SWCG or a plaster pool. The sulfates build up in the pool water and destroy metal and concrete.

When the water temperature drops enough that the SWCG stops generating chlorine, test your FC once or twice a week and add liquid chlorine.
 
OK thanks, wasn't aware of the dry acid issues, good thing I haven't used it more than a couple times last year.

I thought you needed to remove the SWG cell during cooler weather to avoid damage, but if it's just a matter of it not producing and can leave it, that's good. I see there are dummy cells for some models... Still trying to decide between the various SWG, circupool seems to get many positive reviews but they have a few different designs.
 
If you fill out your signature we can provide more informed guidance on SWCG's, as well as water chemistry.

Circupool is fine for a standalone, no automation pool.
 
Q,

We believe in adding what our tests say we need, not what the pool store is trying to sell us.

Phos-Free and Pool Perfect are just never needed, unless your goal is to transfer money from your pocket to your Pool Store's pocket. :mrgreen:

I like to say they are all "magic", but with no white Rabbit.

As a side note: You will love your saltwater pool. Just make sure that any system you buy is rated for at least 2 x the volume of your pool. So, a 20K pool requires a 40K cell. If you still have a single speed pump, then the bigger the cell the less time your pump will need to run.

Thanks,

Jim R.
 
Updated pool info...
Great. A VS pump but no automation. Do you have a timer by chance? You will need some way to remove the power from your SWCG when the pump is not scheduled to run. There are multiple ways to achieve that.
 
There is the old mechanical timer however that was bypassed when the VS pump was installed, I believe it can still be used and may still have power, but the pump is powered all the time. I can get an electrician to check it out but it would probably be cheaper to add another timer (outlets on the electric junction box) or just run the pump 24/7. The house electric is on solar so the cost to run the pump won't be an issue, however the pump longevity may pose another issue if run 24/7.
 
If you can run the pump 24/7, that is the best solution. Longevity is not really effected by running from what we have seen.

I would suggest you get a Circupool RJ45 or a Hayward Aquarite T15.

How do you control your solar heating system? Typically that takes some kind of automation.
 
Q,

Just for reference, I have three IntelliFlo pumps that run 24/7, mostly at 1200 RPM. One has been running this way for over 10 years, one is going on 8 years and the last one for about 7 years.

When these pumps were brand new, they were so quiet that you had to touch them to make sure they were still running. Now, I can tell they are running if I'm standing right next to them, but still very, very quiet.

I'll be sure to post as soon as one of them quits running. :mrgreen:

Thanks,

Jim R.
 
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I was planning on installing the SWG myself, was looking at circupool core 55 as it looks like the simplest installation
There are few ways your pump could have been connected to constant power. Try to trace those line back from the pump. We should be able to assist in getting the SWG connected to the timer.

I recently installed the RJ-45+. Too soon to comment on longevity, but I chose it based on reviews and info here. No complaints so far. If you buy from Discount Salt Pool, make sure you take advantage of the $10 upgrade promotion. No hurry, I don't think it ever ends.
 
One other note...maintaining proper water chemistry will give you the best chance of getting the most out of your SWG. If you haven't already, get a TFP recommended test kit, along with a Taylor K-1766 salt test kit. You can use the money you would have used to buy a bottle of Perfect Weekly and Phos-Free.
 
I live here in Las Vegas, Northwest part of the valley. My pool just passed it’s one year anniversary. I left the swg cell in over the winter. It stopped generating chlorine so I had to add liquid chlorine manually. No big deal, in the next few days, now that the water is about 59 - 60 degrees, I will check the salt level then crank up the swg percentage. Easy peasy.
 
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There are few ways your pump could have been connected to constant power. Try to trace those line back from the pump. We should be able to assist in getting the SWG connected to the timer.

I recently installed the RJ-45+. Too soon to comment on longevity, but I chose it based on reviews and info here. No complaints so far. If you buy from Discount Salt Pool, make sure you take advantage of the $10 upgrade promotion. No hurry, I don't think it ever ends.
I did check the mechanical timer and it does still keep time, I'll open up the box and post some photos of the wiring in a week or so. Is the RJ-45+ you have the core (all in one) unit? Is yours hardwired or plugged in? I'll talk with DSP this week about power cord options.

I was also planning on draining about 50% of the water and refilling (I do that every couple years)... I've been using CYA in a sock placed in the skimmer basket after refilling to get the CYA levels back up. What method of adding CYA to the pool is recommended with a SWG since adding chemicals directly to the skimmer is not advised?
 
Is the RJ-45+ you have the core (all in one) unit? Is yours hardwired or plugged in?
The RJ Series have separate controllers that mount on a wall/post. There are two components that need to be plumbed into the return line; the salt cell and the flow switch. Mine is wired to a cheap Sonoff Wi/Fi smart switch, then to the panel (240 volts). With the smart switch, I'm able to set schedules via an app and control remotely with phone app or Alexa.

I like to have my equipment protected from the elements. I like the simplicity of the Core series, but I wouldn't want my controller exposed to the elements. You'll need to swap out the cell after a few years, but the controller will remain. You could conceivably use the controller for 10 to 15 years. That's a long time for plastic and sensitive electronics to survive in the LV climate. With the RJ series, you can mount to a wall/post and build a small enclosure for protection. Just my 2 cents.

If you use the plug-in option, you'll need a standard 120 volt plug nearby. Best to wire to the timer, which is likely 240 volts.
 
I was also planning on draining about 50% of the water and refilling (I do that every couple years)...
You drain 50% of your pool water because? Is you CH very high? You mentioned that you add CYA with the sock method. Are you also using tablets to chlorinate, which also raises CYA, so you drain because your CYA is high? Just a thought... Before you drain post a full set a test results with your test kit and get experienced eyes on the test results so that you'll know if you need to drain or not.
 
You drain 50% of your pool water because? Is you CH very high? You mentioned that you add CYA with the sock method. Are you also using tablets to chlorinate, which also raises CYA, so you drain because your CYA is high? Just a thought... Before you drain post a full set a test results with your test kit and get experienced eyes on the test results so that you'll know if you need to drain or not.
Yes CYA levels are at the high end (plus chlorinated tabs) and also the water in Las Vegas is pretty poor. With the high evaporation rates in the summer, the water just leaves a residue on you that you feel when showering after a swim... replacing ~ 50% every few years seems to help. Hoping that converting to SWG will help with that a little too.
 

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