Its best to start the OCLT close to dark to rule out the sun and to check early before the sun in the morning.
Pool Newbie, Cloudy Salt Water
- Thread starter TheShepherd
- Start date
- Oct 25, 2017
- 604
- Pool Size
- 9700
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Jandy Truclear / Ei
I do not have a leaf rake. Will need to get one!
I was able to get 95% of it out with slooow vacuuming. There is a small amount of stuff left that appears to be rocks/heavy particles that don’t really get off the bottom.
I was able to get 95% of it out with slooow vacuuming. There is a small amount of stuff left that appears to be rocks/heavy particles that don’t really get off the bottom.
I have a question about next steps for all of you knowledgeable folks. I live out in a rural area so it takes awhile to get supplies. My wife had to go on a 40min each way drive today to stock up in more liquid chlorine to continue the shock.
Once the Shock portion is passed, what’s next for a saltwater pool?
Would I add salt while the pH is drifting down or wait and get it to the right level with liquid chlorine only? Current salt is around 2200-2400ppm. IC40 manual says 3400 is ideal, assuming it’s still functional.
Would need to be ready to start raising the CYA to SWG levels immediately?
Just want to make sure I have everything on hand. I’m fully expecting the salt cell to not be a perfect startup process.
Once the Shock portion is passed, what’s next for a saltwater pool?
Would I add salt while the pH is drifting down or wait and get it to the right level with liquid chlorine only? Current salt is around 2200-2400ppm. IC40 manual says 3400 is ideal, assuming it’s still functional.
Would need to be ready to start raising the CYA to SWG levels immediately?
Just want to make sure I have everything on hand. I’m fully expecting the salt cell to not be a perfect startup process.
- May 3, 2014
- 62,708
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
Have some CYA on hand to raise that to 70 ppm. Once you are confirmed the SLAM is complete, add the CYA and salt (I assume you can test your salinity) to get to 3400 ppm. Start the SWCG and target at least 3 ppm FC generation per day. Test FC each day to adjust run time and % generation to dial in the FC needed.
Adjust your pH to keep in the 7's.
Adjust your pH to keep in the 7's.
Great work! I would personally keep at SLAM for one or 2 more days, keep bumping that FC to 12, as often as you can test and raise it. There is just a touch of murkiness on your long shot 
You don't want the FC to drift down to maintaince and have a "surprise" algae recurrence
You don't want the FC to drift down to maintaince and have a "surprise" algae recurrence
Sorry to jump in on a tangent but is this an actual TFP recommendation; to turn off the swg for a day when adding salt? I haven’t seen that before but would love to know if that’s the consensus recommendation?
And if so, what is the issue that is being avoided? Sounds like some damage could occur to the swg??
- May 3, 2014
- 62,708
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
It is advisable to turn off the SWCG when adding and mixing in a significant amount of salt. If a high salinity concentration goes through the SWCG it may damage it. Some SWCG's are more susceptible than others.
The SWG should be off for 2 things
- during a SLAM Process, reason = it will hide true FC loss, which needs accurate monitoring
- when adding Salt, because it can (does) cause damage to the cell, it's a manufactures warning too.
Thanks for the feedback! I have salt being delivered Friday and was considering doing that anyway so I appreciate the advice! Will do!Great work! I would personally keep at SLAM for one or 2 more days, keep bumping that FC to 12, as often as you can test and raise it. There is just a touch of murkiness on your long shot
Check the salinity before you add any salt to find out the residual salinity left behind from liquid chlorine. At 30k gallons you get 160 ppm from each 40lb bag so the rest is a no brainer. Add the salt in stages as not to overshoot.
Also, if you check salt before, and then count bags added, this will help you get a better size estimate in gallons for the pool
Thanks all for the well wishes and comments! This community is fantastic and I wouldn’t have been able to finish out the clean up so quickly without all the great advice and feedback!
I’ve been raising salt and also cya (slowly). I’m circumspect that the salt cell will not work so I don’t want to end up at a 70 CyA and have to keep using bleach to keep it up while I figure out the cell.
Unfortunately, it does look like there is a problem with the cell. Sat is up to 3000ppm and the “Good Salt” light is now green. However, the Cell and Life lights are flashing. It’s been running for over twelve hours at 80% and chlorine level has gone down.
I’ve been raising salt and also cya (slowly). I’m circumspect that the salt cell will not work so I don’t want to end up at a 70 CyA and have to keep using bleach to keep it up while I figure out the cell.
Unfortunately, it does look like there is a problem with the cell. Sat is up to 3000ppm and the “Good Salt” light is now green. However, the Cell and Life lights are flashing. It’s been running for over twelve hours at 80% and chlorine level has gone down.
While I figure out the salt cell, kids and fam are asking if they can get in the pool. FC is in range for the CYA chart and CC is < .5. Water is clear so I assume I can treat it like a non-SWCG pool and they are good to go and I’ll just keep monitoring FC/pH?
Last edited:
Yes, if you can see the bottom (safety) and FC is above minimum but below SLAM for existing CYA level, you are good to go!