Pool Management: What Next?

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So spoke to a CSR today at FIdelity and got a very canned response. The rep said I need to pay out of my pocket to counter their decision and get in writing before they will review. I asked if they will pay for the associated costs and they said No. I told them that the rep who diagnosed the issue is not Jandy approved so there is no way I can take that as a valid diagnosis.

AT the end I had to ask him to escalate it to a higher level. In the past I have had them send a secondary review just pay the deductible. I am not sure if the rep was unaware or trying to push back...

Any other tactics is appreciated..
 
csriram45 said:
So spoke to a CSR today at FIdelity and got a very canned response. The rep said I need to pay out of my pocket to counter their decision and get in writing before they will review. I asked if they will pay for the associated costs and they said No. I told them that the rep who diagnosed the issue is not Jandy approved so there is no way I can take that as a valid diagnosis.

AT the end I had to ask him to escalate it to a higher level. In the past I have had them send a secondary review just pay the deductible. I am not sure if the rep was unaware or trying to push back...

Any other tactics is appreciated..
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I got a parking ticket in front of my apartment once even though my parking permit was displayed on the windshield. I sent the ticket in denying that I was illegally parked and got a reply that if I paid the $80 fine, I could then have a hearing to investigate it. I paid and got a letter back a few days later saying that they held the hearing and the fine was determined to be valid. :mad:

Good luck!
 
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Edit: Spoke to another agent. A bit more reasonable to talk to but not much different result. I guess i need to get a second opinion from someone certified to prove that the diagnosis is incorrect and submit to Fidelity so they will then review and open this again.

Anyone here certified pool technician :) willing to do the diagnosis (remotely with me or in person) to write a report for me.
 
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also I was looking to see if I can borrow or try on my own with a flow sensor kit. While looking at them I have following questions

1. I am told that the new flow sensor need the following adapter -

Zodiac Jandy PureLink Sensor Adapter Cable AKC13 | R0538600​

Is this required? Is anyone able to confirm based on the pictures I have shared before?? It looks like just an extension cable but not sure if there is any other compatiblity reasons. ? Want to make sure that If I do I am ordering it.

2. Looks like new sensors have two programs A and B and bases on your board you have to pick. Anyone able to confirm which one I need to use based on my pictures? Is it possible the kid who came didn't know or care and that's why the sensor didn't work?

3. Just a second opinion looks like is gonna put me back $200. What a scam these insurances are. I should have just told them I wanted a different provider at the very first time.

4. Any idea where the best pricing on the PLC1400 kit is? I see places selling for $700+ tax but wanted to check.

5. Came across this thread where OP had success. Replacement cell for Jandy Aquapure 1400

I know TFP has warned to stay away but with credit card protection etc. I guess worth a try?


Finally, how does one get warranty if you buy over internet?
 
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Edit: Was able to locate clear instructions. I have attached, I assume this is what I need to follow.

So I went ahead and ordered a flow sensor. Should arrive in couple of days. Since it's the new kind, is there any specific steps I need to do when installing and making sure it recognizes?
 

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Ok update: Got my flow sensor today and even though it was dark and I went with the swap and all the errors are gone. As you can see the old sensor had burnt out which I was aware so I wanted to give it a shot.

The link New video by Sriram Chandrasekaran

YouTube link -

Shows that the errors are gone. Howwver the Chlorine shows zero which I assume is because salt cell needs to be replaced. Do I need to do any configuration? How can I check salt level and other params?

Any other expert guidance?

I am hoping I can call Fidelity now and show the video and tell them that it was the flow sensor that was bad for the errors and the video shows how with the new sensors errors go away and so front board is NOT the issue and the fact that it shows 0% means that the salt cell itself needs replacement. While I am hoping they will pay for even the sensor but worse case if they say they will only pay for the cell I am ok, let's see what comes up
 

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‘JO’ – Indicates operation is controlled by a Jandy AquaLink RS or PDA, and system is in SERVICE or TIME MODE.

‘JA’ – Indicates operation is controlled by a Jandy AquaLink RS or PDA, and system is in AUTO MODE.

Take the AquaLink out of Service mode and then adjust the percentage from the AquaLink RS controller.

The user interface can be used to adjust the output production rate (%) when the salt water chlorinator system is controlled by the AquaLink RS only when the AquaLink RS is placed into service mode.

When the down arrow button A or the up arrow button B is pressed, a JA in the display indicates that the AquaLink RS is controlling the entire system, including the output production rates.

The AquaLink RS Control System must be set to Service Mode before you can change the chlorine production rate from the control/power center user interface.

In Service mode, you can change the percentage using the Up button next to the display.

How do you usually control the AquaLink RS?
 
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JamesW said:
While the Aqualink RS is in Service mode, you can change the percentage with Rate ^ button.

When in JA mode you can change it with the Aqualink RS controller.
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Ok that made sense so I used my PDA and increased the percentage to 75% from 50%, went back and I can see the display show 75%. Just as I was about to start taking a video there was a loud beep it switched to code 172/180 and cell reversing/serice. Is that an error or just reverse mode?


Here is the video of PDA and the display at controller after the change.
PDA

Jandy SWG Controller
 
JamesW said:
180 - Heated sensor element not heating (generates 172 code).

180 usually means that the trisensor is bad.

Did you get a brand new one from a reliable source?
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Yes it was brand new from a reliable source. Perhaps that is why the pool service technician said the PCB was bad because he too installed a new sensor and tried.
 
JamesW said:
Can you show the connection of the trisensor wire plug to the circuit board plug socket?

Can you show a picture of the whole circuit board?
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Here are the 2 posts where I had the pictures associated. Do you want me to take more or a different view?

Pool Management: What Next?

Heard from the pool company that came to check and has quoted me $800 dollars to replace without insurance coverage. This is starting to get expensive now and the insurance says they will cover only if the work is done by a licensed person. Make sure you get the insurance company to pre approve...
www.troublefreepool.com www.troublefreepool.com

Pool Management: What Next?

Heard from the pool company that came to check and has quoted me $800 dollars to replace without insurance coverage. This is starting to get expensive now and the insurance says they will cover only if the work is done by a licensed person. Make sure you get the insurance company to pre approve...
www.troublefreepool.com www.troublefreepool.com
 

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