Pool Management: What Next?

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If you are sure that the new sensor is good and the plug is installed correctly, then the circuit board might be bad.

It looks like the old sensor was bad for an extended period of time and it might have damaged the circuit board if it was shorted out.
 
JamesW said:
If you are sure that the new sensor is good and the plug is installed correctly, then the circuit board might be bad.

It looks like the old sensor was bad for an extended period of time and it might have damaged the circuit board if it was shorted out.
Click to expand...
Yikes ok I guess the pool technician was correct then... Would that be the front board or the back board? How can I confirm that the board is bad? Do the voltage analysis?
 
So interesting update: I tried again today after setting power off to everything and starting fresh. I turned on everything and then also set the salt percent back to 50% from 75% which is what it was always set.

Here is the video
Does this mean I am now producing Chlorine?? Am I interpreting it correctly? At least this rules out any board issues?
 

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what is the best way to know chlorine is being generated? I suppose run a chlorine test before and after running the pump? Also at 50% how long do I need to run my pump to keep chlorine level high enough? With the cell this old I was just trying to run it at higher percentage before... ofcourse I will take 50% over 0% and needing to change parts... but wanted to know my options...
 
csriram45 said:
what is the best way to know chlorine is being generated? I suppose run a chlorine test before and after running the pump? Also at 50% how long do I need to run my pump to keep chlorine level high enough? With the cell this old I was just trying to run it at higher percentage before... ofcourse I will take 50% over 0% and needing to change parts... but wanted to know my options...
Click to expand...
Test after sunlight is off pool, run swcg all night then test before sunlight is on the pool. You should gain FC provided you have clean water to start.
 
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reggiehammond said:
Test after sunlight is off pool, run swcg all night then test before sunlight is on the pool. You should gain FC provided you have clean water to start.
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Yes that's the plan it's been ON since it worked just to see if it runs. While I am constantly getting organic matter due to flowers falling from my neighbors tree I am assuming that the over night run would mean that the Chlorine goes up or stays same which I know will be some positive confirmation.
JamesW said:
www.homedepot.com

Klein Tools 400 Amp AC/DC Digital Clamp Meter, TRMS Auto-Ranging CL390 - The Home Depot

Get an ideal and upgraded accessory to measure current accurately and quickly with the help of this Klein Tools AC or DC Digital Clamp Meter, Auto-Ranging.
www.homedepot.com

Check the amperage.

It should be about 5 to 7 amps.

View attachment 349780
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Don't have a millimeter. Got the regular kind.
 
csriram45 said:
Don't have a millimeter. Got the regular kind.
Click to expand...
That's why I put the link to where you can get a meter.

In any case, you can measure the current if you want to really know what the cell is doing or you can just watch for any error codes.

You can also do an inline amperage test with most cheaper meters.

Check YouTube for instructions.

www.homedepot.com

Klein Tools 400 Amp AC/DC Digital Clamp Meter, TRMS Auto-Ranging CL390 - The Home Depot

Get an ideal and upgraded accessory to measure current accurately and quickly with the help of this Klein Tools AC or DC Digital Clamp Meter, Auto-Ranging.
www.homedepot.com
 
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JamesW said:
That's why I put the link to where you can get a meter.

In any case, you can measure the current if you want to really know what the cell is doing or you can just watch for any error codes.

You can also do an inline amperage test with most cheaper meters.

Check YouTube for instructions.

www.homedepot.com

Klein Tools 400 Amp AC/DC Digital Clamp Meter, TRMS Auto-Ranging CL390 - The Home Depot

Get an ideal and upgraded accessory to measure current accurately and quickly with the help of this Klein Tools AC or DC Digital Clamp Meter, Auto-Ranging.
www.homedepot.com
Click to expand...
Yeah! I did notice you shared the link, I meant about something that I can test today/tmr morning.
 
Update: I have not done the amperage test yet, need to watch few you tube videos to make sure I know what I am doing. However, I tried to bump the chlorine out put in increments of 5% and it still stayed on so now it's at 65%. Didn't want to push my luck too much.

One thing I noticed was that it defaulted to pgm A even though I know it is supposed to go to pgm B based on the instructions. Last time it chose pgm B. Does it switch automatically after some time? Not wanting to get the error again I changed it myself to pgm B and the cell turned on correctly with the flow also sensing ON. How can I make sure that its going to stick to pgm B?

I am going to do a more close Chlorine test to check the quantity before and after runs and see to confirm production..

Is it possible for electronics to run but no chlorine being produced?
 
Just wanted to come back and write a follow up and clarify something.

I eventually set the Chlorine to 75% and everything has been good so far.

I have been topping the water as needed. I haven't been checking my PDA as much as the pump and swg are on a schedule. Today I was just casually checking and to my surprise the PDA says that my salt is 2400 ppm! I am a bit puzzled. My salt was actually slightly elevated level when I started around 3600-3800 ppm. Is it possible for it to drop to 2400 PPM in 2 months?

I know my chlorine need was high because of a flowering tree next to mine that dumps tons of flowers during July and August.

I however thought the Chlorine generated turned back into salt after being consumed. I am wondering where can that much salt suddenly go? Could it be caked in the filter or the solar water panels? I mean that's a lot of salt that suddenly seems to be in accounted for.

Any ideas? I am worries about adding salt only for it to all get washed up into the pool throwing my salt levels super high..

Edit: I will do a salt test with my Taylor kit to confirm the salt PPM before adding. Read few other threads as the consensus is that it's a sign of aging cell.. let's see how it goes..
 
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csriram45 said:
Just wanted to come back and write a follow up and clarify something.

I eventually set the Chlorine to 75% and everything has been good so far.

I have been topping the water as needed. I haven't been checking my PDA as much as the pump and swg are on a schedule. Today I was just casually checking and to my surprise the PDA says that my salt is 2400 ppm! I am a bit puzzled. My salt was actually slightly elevated level when I started around 3600-3800 ppm. Is it possible for it to drop to 2400 PPM in 2 months?

I know my chlorine need was high because of a flowering tree next to mine that dumps tons of flowers during July and August.

I however thought the Chlorine generated turned back into salt after being consumed. I am wondering where can that much salt suddenly go? Could it be caked in the filter or the solar water panels? I mean that's a lot of salt that suddenly seems to be in accounted for.

Any ideas? I am worries about adding salt only for it to all get washed up into the pool throwing my salt levels super high..

Edit: I will do a salt test with my Taylor kit to confirm the salt PPM before adding. Read few other threads as the consensus is that it's a sign of aging cell.. let's see how it goes..
Click to expand...
Only trust the Taylor salt test. All the electronics sensors on the SWG tend to vary wildly on their readings.
 
Edit: Yup that was it. I am able to set it. Lets see how this goes.
Thank you

A very dumb question. I tested and all params look right after disconnecting the sensor, For recalibaration, do I connect the sensor back before recalbarating? I ask because I am unable to get to the recalibaration screen when I do the the following step

Release the button after the 3rd beep. Press and release the “Temperature “ button within 5 seconds to enter the salinity calibration screen.

it just reads HH and then goes back to the % of Chlorine production screen.

Appreciate a quick response.

Than you
Sam
 
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