Pool Management: What Next?

Heard from the pool company that came to check and has quoted me $800 dollars to replace without insurance coverage. This is starting to get expensive now and the insurance says they will cover only if the work is done by a licensed person.
Make sure you get the insurance company to pre approve any quote that you get even if they tell you it’s ok to find your own service person to repair. That’s one of the other ways they got me.
 
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Make sure you get the insurance company to pre approve any quote that you get even if they tell you it’s ok to find your own service person to repair. That’s one of the other ways they got me.
Yeah they are not going to cover the board change. After the board change if it still does not work they will "open' the case again for further research. However this board change is on me....

3 buttons. S5 (Salinity). S6 (H-Temp). S7 (R-Temp).
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Ah thank you so much... that makes so much sense...
 
Disconnect the flow salinity temp sensor from the front board.

Press and hold the test buttons marked salinity and R-temp.

While still pressing the test buttons press the ‘Salinity’ key (‘C’) on the front cover of the unit.

The LCD should read 2.8 gpl*.

While still holding the two front board test buttons press the ‘Pool Temperature’ key (‘D’).

It should read 75° F or 24° C.

Next, press and hold the board ‘H-Temp’ test button, and at the same time press the ‘Salinity’

key (‘C’) together with the ‘Chlorine Production Rate’ arrow down key (‘A’) on the front cover of the unit.

The LCD should read 91° F or 33° C .

Ok so I ran this test and they all matched.the first one said 3.0 but I believe that is still within specs. I guess I need to look at other troubleshooting steps?
 
Attached. What more pics can I provide?
 

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I suspect that you just need a new cell and trisensor.
The service guy who came "claims" they put in a new cell and sensor and it didn't work. Like i said, I was not there to see it. Perhaps once the experts here can guide me I can go back to my insurance and ask them to send in a "different" company to evaluate to challenge the first teams analysis.
 
Can you show a good picture of the circuit board that has the three buttons?
The board has 4 screws in back attaching to front plate. If you need the view from front let me know and I will try to remove them as well and get a view from that side
 

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When you disconnected the trisensor, did the 170 error code go away?
Yes it did go away. Said 0 and I know for sure the flow sensor is bad and burnt so needs to be changed. I did see the kid change the flow sensor and power on but I am not sure what he did after that. including if he actually tried a new cell...since I wasn't there to see it...
 
I really think that you just need a new cell, cord and trisensor.

Tell the warranty company to send over someone competent with the right parts.
Ok any guidance or specifics I can give to convince them that they need to send a different contractor? The yelp reviews of these guys were horrible and I was worried when they were selected. It almost appears they just make the money by giving 2 service calls and when the actual work needs to happen they just move on to avoid anything that requires more time..
 
Ok any guidance or specifics I can give to convince them that they need to send a different contractor?
Tell them that the people seemed incompetent.

Ask them to send someone else.

If they try to avoid sending someone else, ask what qualifications the original service people have.

They have to send "qualified" technicians.

That means that the technician has some sort of certification from Jandy that the technician has taken and passed some sort of class or training.

No proof of training means that they are not qualified.
 

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