Pool Management: What Next?

@mknauss is right. When I started down the TFPC path a little over a year ago I spent a ton of time trying to figure the pool out. Now I spend less than an hour a week doing everything.

I think if you compare the TFPC method to the traditional pool care method you'll find you save time short term, only to spend that time plus some later on (Not to mention spending more money). Here is what I mean.
  • If you use Trichlor bucks and never measure CYA, you'll save some time in the short term, until you have to drain your pool water every 1-2 years because your CYA is high. You'll also spend time SLAMing the pool because you didn't track the CYA and it was too high for the chlorine to work and therefore you got algae.
  • If you don't track your pH and TA, you'll save some time in the short term, but then your pH/TA will be too high which can cause the salt cell to break, or just not last as long. So once the salt cell goes out because of high pH/TA you'll spend all that time ( and money) replacing the salt cell.
I'm sure there are many more examples that I haven't thought of. Plus this only compares time, not expense, and quality. With the TFPC method you'll save money, and your pool will look and feel way better.
 
This is exactly what I told my wife( not in as many words) but don't think she understands. Ok good to know it gets better once you have "learnt" and "unlearnt".

This is exactly what happened to my pool. Kept adding the tabs as a form of Chlorine and then it stopped working. That's how I came across TFP.

So thank you for encouragement.. it's been a lot of learning and thank you for teaching and supporting..

Did add a gallon last night and ran the pump.. it's going to be a hot weekend... So got to watch out for the pool chemistry... Will start SLAM again Monday night... Hopefully it doesn't get too bad...
 
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So just came out with a nice day at the pool. Noticed the Jandy valve leaking again even with the new o rings. It wasn't there yesterday. Will check again to see if I need to readjust. Any tips?

Also in my spa there is a step which I think had a large crack which my previous owner had glued somehow. The glue is starting to give way and the crack seems to be widening. What's the best way to keep it together don't want whole step cracking and falling off .
 
A very frustrating day. I had ordered a rebuild kit of oring for the Jandy valve that control solar vs non solar. The one I showed was leaking. Well after the rebuild it had worked well but still drilling a bit so I went to add some lube etc. Not sure what happened but the valve leaked more than usual and not matter what I tried it isn't stopping. I am thinking it's mostly micro fissure that is not visible. Esp around where the screws go...

Have ordered a new cover and hopefully that fixes it but anything else I should look for?

Btw: I thought I posted this yesterday but don't see the post.
 
Merged threads - TFP mod.
I have an update on my salt cell issue:

So the Pool guys hired by my insurance comes back. He says that they tried to replace the cell and sensors and that its still not working and its the control board and of course Fidelity now says the electronics are not covered. I am still not convinced its the control board. Any idea and suggestions how much the control board costs and what will it take to replace? If replacing that does not fix then I can continue to open the claim and have troubleshoot...

Unfortunately the this particular pool company has very poor ratings and as per yelp is known to keep changing what they say is the issue. Any guidance is going to be helpful in the next steps.
 
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Disconnect the flow salinity temp sensor from the front board.

Press and hold the test buttons marked salinity and R-temp.

While still pressing the test buttons press the ‘Salinity’ key (‘C’) on the front cover of the unit.

The LCD should read 2.8 gpl*.

While still holding the two front board test buttons press the ‘Pool Temperature’ key (‘D’).

It should read 75° F or 24° C.

Next, press and hold the board ‘H-Temp’ test button, and at the same time press the ‘Salinity’

key (‘C’) together with the ‘Chlorine Production Rate’ arrow down key (‘A’) on the front cover of the unit.

The LCD should read 91° F or 33° C .
 

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I changed your signature. You are looking at the list of items that are shared with Poolmath, if you have the app. Your signature is a text block above that.
 
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Do you have pictures of everything?
I am planning to do that. I will take pictures/video of the set up and also the screen and follow the steps.

Since earlier I had the warranty guy come as per him he said its the cell I didn't bother spending too much time. But now he says he replaced with a new cell and sensor and it still didn't work, I don't know if he really did or not. Unfortunately, I couldn't hang around for long when he came due to a work call so I am left to trust the person. I didn't realize my warranty would not cover the electronics otherwise I would probably have made sure I was hanging around to make sure to watch every step of the way..

On a different note, How long do those transformers last? I was reading up some old threads and there is mention about voltage and the transformer can be an issue too...

Let me first follow the steps listed here.
 
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Ok looking at the steps above and the picture I feel like I don't have the buttons mentioned. I held the salinity button and then the pool temp and got code 172, 185 and 186. Not sure what that means.
 

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Have you seen this article?
Ok I seem to have missed this. I guess I am trying to figure out how to correlate what's in the troubleshooting manual and what I see.
Do I need to remove the screw of the plate on top and that will reveal the additional PIB and the buttons?

Will try and see what I find tomorrow..
 
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Heard from the pool company that came to check and has quoted me $800 dollars to replace without insurance coverage. This is starting to get expensive now and the insurance says they will cover only if the work is done by a licensed person.
 

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