Pool Management: What Next?

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JamesW said:
Yes.
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Awesome and btw I was mistaken. Error code is 170 not 171. I am going to try to get a new sensor flow kit and give it a shot. If you saw the pics/video above the sensor kit seems to be rusted or burnt out.

The new kit by pics seems to be different than the one currently hooked up. I should be able to replace it straight forward?

I was also thinking of getting the dummy kit for swapping out the kit for winter to keep the life longer. Is it worth doing that? I figured with no pool usage in winter. I can manage with liquid chlorine?

In any case my approach is
1. Try out with a new sensor kit (price is about the same as my pool warranty deductible).
2. If that doesn't work then have the pool warranty guy come and check it out and perhaps they will agree to replace the SwG. Don't know what the policies are about end of life replacement.
3. If #2 is not approved then try to fight it out with warranty but worse case get a new Jandy PLC1400.
4. I see compupool version as a like to like replacement. Is it any good? Worth saving 40%?
 
General update: I did clean the Cell as even thought it was not touch accumulation the one that was there was mostly around where the power electrodes were and they were stubborn. Didn't work with vinegar so had to use muriatic acid. After that rinsed and connected but no luck. I wasn't expecting it to work because I think the flow sensor seems Burnt out based on the pics.

The kids and I did use the pool today as the temp outside was perfect and pool params were perfect..

The water was "cold", fresh water so it's not warmed up. Hopefully over the weeks the solar heats it up.

I do have a question on my solar pool heater. I think I understand the flow but a bit unsure on the value positions. When I do turn on the heat my JVA turns and seems to start to leak. I almost feel like there is pressure or resistance and there is another valve that needs to be opened manually. I think I know which one it is but not sure what position it need to be.

photos.app.goo.gl

New video by Sriram Chandrasekaran

photos.app.goo.gl photos.app.goo.gl

Here is a video showing the JVA and the pipe going and then I try to show two pipes going into the ground. One had this half valve which I think is the return from solar and the other seems longer. Both are in horizontal position. Does that mean they are open or closed? I tried to turn them but it seemed tight and I didn't want to do something that I didn't know about.

Any help or let me know if I should post this in a different sub forum to get more eyes on.
 
They should be vertical to let the water pass. They were probably closed for winter. Try moving them while the water is not flowing, if you weren't already.

You can also watch your filter pressure gauge for clues as you figure out the pad.

Careful not to trip over your skimmer net 😉
 
BenB said:
They should be vertical to let the water pass. They were probably closed for winter. Try moving them while the water is not flowing, if you weren't already.

You can also watch your filter pressure gauge for clues as you figure out the pad.

Careful not to trip over your skimmer net 😉
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Yes will try it when it's not On and yes not trip. 😁😁
 
Ok I tried to turn with the filter off. The one on the right black which I think is the flow towards the heater turned but the red one which I realized has a broken handle didn't. After a lot of effort it moved quarter but not beyond. Due to its location closer to pool filter, I am not able to get enough leverage either. Any ideas?

I guess eventually I must replace them but for now would like to just get them open.

Also when it's time to close is there a particular process or procedure? I assume you don't want any water in the solar panels so I am thinking you shut the inlet first and then shut down pool pump and let the gravity do it's thing and close the the ball valve after 5-10 mins or may be even next day?

Also saw video on that the handle is replaceable. Do I just need to break the plastic in center to expose the screw? Again this is until I figure out a better valve and how to replace.
 
Update: I finally managed to turn it. However, here is what happened,

My JVA seems to be leaking. Not sure if my thing to run it without the ball valves turned created a pressure. Anyways to fix it? I assume a O ring replacement?

photos.app.goo.gl

New video by Sriram Chandrasekaran

photos.app.goo.gl photos.app.goo.gl

Had the warranty guy come and he looked and in 2 mins said need to replace. Let's see what' warranty company says.

I told him I have not added salt yet after refill to confirm before I turn back on.

With. 20,000G pool, how many bags of salt do I need? Is there a calculator?
 
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csriram45 said:
Update: I finally managed to turn it. However, here is what happened,

My JVA seems to be leaking. Not sure if my thing to run it without the ball valves turned created a pressure. Anyways to fix it? I assume a O ring replacement?

photos.app.goo.gl

New video by Sriram Chandrasekaran

photos.app.goo.gl photos.app.goo.gl

Had the warranty guy come and he looked and in 2 mins said need to replace. Let's see what' warranty company says.

I told him I have not added salt yet after refill to confirm before I turn back on.

With. 20,000G pool, how many bags of salt do I need? Is there a calculator?
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Poolmath app will tell you amount of salt only AFTER you test it with a K-1766 salt kit. Do not add all the salt that poolmath requests; do 70% and test again after 24-36 hours. Go slow as you don’t want to overshoot.
 
reggiehammond said:
Poolmath app will tell you amount of salt only AFTER you test it with a K-1766 salt kit. Do not add all the salt that poolmath requests; do 70% and test again after 24-36 hours. Go slow as you don’t want to overshoot.
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The guy came with a digital meter and told me my salt is around 1200 or so. Are the digital meters more accurate?
 
reggiehammond said:
Poolmath app will tell you amount of salt only AFTER you test it with a K-1766 salt kit. Do not add all the salt that poolmath requests; do 70% and test again after 24-36 hours. Go slow as you don’t want to overshoot.
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Got it. Looking at Salt bags is there any difference between pool salts?
 

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Just get regular water softener salt @ homedepot Morton brand plain no additives either the yellow bag which is pellets or the blue bag which is crystals. Do not buy the pool salt as it's the same stuff but because it has the word pool will cost more $. Do not buy clorox brand salt......
 
wireform said:
Just get regular water softener salt @ homedepot Morton brand plain no additives either the yellow bag which is pellets or the blue bag which is crystals. Do not buy the pool salt as it's the same stuff but because it has the word pool will cost more $. Do not buy clorox brand salt......
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Got it. That's what I thought. Salt is salt but just wanted to be sure. Good you told me about Clorox as WalMart has that on sale..

So this should be good?
www.homedepot.com

Morton Salt Pure and Natural 40 lbs. Solar Water Softener Salt Crystals 3983 - The Home Depot

This Morton Salt Pure and Natural Water Softener Salt is designed for use with most water softeners. Offers long-lasting durability.
www.homedepot.com
 
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Ok got the salt. I add it directly to the pool right? Is there a right way to add?

Hear back from Fidelity home insurance. As suspected the kid who came yesterday spent less than 5 mins and said SwG needs a change.

Fidelity calls today that the company that came says my pool salinity was low so they couldn't test. This inspite of my already telling the guy that I just refilled my pool after draining and I don't want to add salt unless I know I am going with SWG. The kid was all nice no problem but ofcourse the owner said a different info. This was consistent with their help review.

Anyways now question is if I add the salt and if my claim is rejected and I decide to hold off on SwG. What are the draw back of adding salt? Is there any?

I will add 3 bags today and 3 tomorrow. As per pool math I need to add 10 bags.
 

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