Pool light transformer makes a loud thump noise when turned on

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Re: Pool light transformer makes a loud thump noise when turned on & LED bulb replace

nabril15 said:
I measured 12v AC at the load cables right off the transformer. I did not unravel them, but that shouldn't make a difference. At the bulb socket, I measure zero, nothing.. no matter how many times I switch volmeter contacts; I touched the socket wall with 1, and the center point with the other. Therefore, it might be time to say that the light fixture is bad.
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Am I understanding that your light fixture cable run straight to the transformer? Don't you have a junction box to inspect the wiring connections!

To perform the continuity test, just disconnect the light fixture wiring from the transformer! Twist them together and probe the light socket. Set your VOM to measure resistance/Ohm and let us know what you got.
 
Re: Pool light transformer makes a loud thump noise when turned on & LED bulb replace

Meadow said:
Am I understanding that your light fixture cable run straight to the transformer? Don't you have a junction box to inspect the wiring connections!
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I never thought of that since I had a reading at the socket in my last tests a month ago or so. I will check it as well as test the continuity as you described it.
 
Re: Pool light transformer makes a loud thump noise when turned on & LED bulb replace

Meadow said:
Am I understanding that your light fixture cable run straight to the transformer? Don't you have a junction box to inspect the wiring connections!
Click to expand...

Not all lights have a junction box like you suggest. Many pool lights run straight to the transformer. My pool light doesn't have a junction box. Many times when there is one, it is because of the length of run between light and transformer. But it is not necessary.
 
An update after some tests.
At the junction box, I measured: 12.3v from the transformer,and no continuity to the light bulb socket using a working 110v incandescent bulb.

At the socket, I also measured no continuity to the joined junction box light fixture cables.
Therefore, we can declare my light fixture dead, no?
Can I replace it on my own? I know that there are youtube videos showing how to do it without even draining the pool a bit. Is draining a must do step?
 
As long as you can get a new one that fits your niche, sure you can do it. I've seen them done with out draining so sure it can be done. Sometimes people have issues pulling the old one out.
 

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ps0303 said:
As long as you can get a new one that fits your niche, sure you can do it. I've seen them done with out draining so sure it can be done. Sometimes people have issues pulling the old one out.
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Thanks.
My thought is that the tube going back to the junction box should be kept airtight, but it will fill with water if I dont drain. Then again, the cable is waterproof, so maybe that won't matter???
 
mknauss said:
Review this --

http://www.inyopools.com/HowToPage/how-to-replace-a-pool-light-fixture.aspx
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ps0303 said:
As long as you can get a new one that fits your niche, sure you can do it. I've seen them done with out draining so sure it can be done. Sometimes people have issues pulling the old one out.
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Thanks Marty and ps
It looks simple enough, as long as the old and new cable pulls go smoothly. The tube out of the junction box has 3/4" diameter, so that will make it easier to pull. The video mentions nothing abkut about the fact that once you start pulling the old cable out, water will go into the conduit tube going back to the junction box; perhaps, it is not a concern.
 
nabril15 said:
It looks simple enough, as long as the old and new cable pulls go smoothly. The tube out of the junction box has 3/4" diameter, so that will make it easier to pull. The video mentions nothing abkut about the fact that once you start pulling the old cable out, water will go into the conduit tube going back to the junction box; perhaps, it is not a concern.
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Your existing junction box should be at least 8” higher than the pool or spa water level and there is no concern for water going up at the junction box level. Except for a wet lighting cable that you just pulled.

NEC Article 680.24 Junction Boxes (explained)
(2) Installation.
(a) Vertical Spacing. The junction box shall not be located less than 4 in. above the ground or pool, outdoor spa, or hot tub deck, or not less than 8 in. above the maximum water level.

First off, get the gunite niche model # and order a replacement light fixture. Take into consideration the extra 5’ length of cable. INYOPOOLS.com should be able to help you out on this.

At the junction box, see if you can pull the old lighting cable with ease. If so, cut the old cable near the light fixture and secure the new cable to the old one. I soldered together the old wires to the new one. Also, I bought a bottle of cable pulling lubricant from Lowes but did not use it. Having able to pull the cable one way at the junction box side will save you time and effort. But if the cable won’t budge either way then get ready with a fish tape or perhaps time to engage an electrician.

I learned how to replace our Spa and Pool light fixtures by watching youtube videos. In fact, my very first cable pulling experience and it went with ease. I should say, the $1.5k quote for parts and labor motivates me to DIY!

Good luck!
 
Meadow said:
Your existing junction box should be at least 8” higher than the pool or spa water level and there is no concern for water going up at the junction box level. Except for a wet lighting cable that you just pulled.

NEC Article 680.24 Junction Boxes (explained)
(2) Installation.
(a) Vertical Spacing. The junction box shall not be located less than 4 in. above the ground or pool, outdoor spa, or hot tub deck, or not less than 8 in. above the maximum water level.

First off, get the gunite niche model # and order a replacement light fixture. Take into consideration the extra 5’ length of cable. INYOPOOLS.com should be able to help you out on this.
Click to expand...

Thanks Meadow. The junction box is indeed higher so water wont make it up there. Fine. Thanks gravity. But the conduit will obviously fill with some water, but I imagine that it's not a concern.
How do I get the niche model? Going in the very cold water (now) and looking in it? Or by looking at the light fixture (i just did) and seeing a UL label that says it's niche type S-240931?
 
Last edited:
mknauss said:
Review this --

http://www.inyopools.com/HowToPage/how-to-replace-a-pool-light-fixture.aspx
Click to expand...

ps0303 said:
As long as you can get a new one that fits your niche, sure you can do it. I've seen them done with out draining so sure it can be done. Sometimes people have issues pulling the old one out.
Click to expand...

Meadow said:
Your existing junction box should be at least 8” higher than the pool or spa water level and there is no concern for water going up at the junction box level. Except for a wet lighting cable that you just pulled.

NEC Article 680.24 Junction Boxes (explained)
(2) Installation.
(a) Vertical Spacing. The junction box shall not be located less than 4 in. above the ground or pool, outdoor spa, or hot tub deck, or not less than 8 in. above the maximum water level.

First off, get the gunite niche model # and order a replacement light fixture. Take into consideration the extra 5’ length of cable. INYOPOOLS.com should be able to help you out on this.

At the junction box, see if you can pull the old lighting cable with ease. If so, cut the old cable near the light fixture and secure the new cable to the old one. I soldered together the old wires to the new one. Also, I bought a bottle of cable pulling lubricant from Lowes but did not use it. Having able to pull the cable one way at the junction box side will save you time and effort. But if the cable won’t budge either way then get ready with a fish tape or perhaps time to engage an electrician.

I learned how to replace our Spa and Pool light fixtures by watching youtube videos. In fact, my very first cable pulling experience and it went with ease. I should say, the $1.5k quote for parts and labor motivates me to DIY!

Good luck!
Click to expand...

Meadow said:
Water inside the conduit is normal as long as there is no leak!
Post pictures of your existing light fixture. Focus on the label if any. An expert should be able to steer you in the right direction.
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Meadow said:
Cool...I'm not an expert but the pic tells it all. Any of the pool type LED fixture in the below link will fit your gunite niche. But of course, you can widen your search. The choice is yours!
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Thanks Meadow. I was given a 12v 25w LED bulb as a gift that I obviously plan to use. I also imagine that any future bulb purchase will be an led bulb.
My existing fixture is 300w. I assume that a 12v 100w fixture is cheaper, so should I get it? Or do I get a 300w one just in case?
 

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