Ignition failure code came on a day after it was working fine. I cleaned the orifices...still not lighting. hear a single click no flame and IF pops up. Next plan of action?
Pool Heater Hayward h400idl - IF ignition failure error
- Thread starter deveron22
- Start date
- Jul 21, 2013
- 52,891
- Pool Size
- 35000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
Natural gas or propane?
How old is the heater?
Can you describe exactly what happens from the time you power the heater on?
Probably need to check the gas pressure.
How old is the heater?
Can you describe exactly what happens from the time you power the heater on?
Probably need to check the gas pressure.
Natural gas, 17 years old. I power on, fan blower running - about 30 seconds later i hear a click and nothing. In the past, i'd hear it light up at this point. Heater does this 3 times. I smell a little gas, which was normal. Couple minutes later IF service code.
Sorry this is all new to me. do i need to remove the igniter to test with multimeter? i didnt seem to get a reading on it when i tested it. how do i check the fuses?
swamprat69
Well-known member
You can check the ignitor with a meter by measuring the ohms at the 2 leads coming from the ignitor. An older silicon carbide ignitor ( shiny crystalline and fragile ) will normally ohm out at 45-150 ohms. A newer silicon nitride ignitor ( Looks like a smooth dull black matchstick ) will normally ohm out at about 11-17 ohms. A reading of 0 ohms means the ignitor is open and won't heat up.
i'm unsure whether i'm testing correctly. i read in another post that you can check the igniter by running it. does that mean i can unscrew it, pull it out and its safe to run to see if it works? about ready to just call a pro
You can just pull it. Turn gas inlet from the ground off. Remove ignitor and turn on heater to begin cycle. You will be able to see the end of the ignitor turn red hot. Of course wait till cool before trying to put back in place.
I did this. Mine tested 14 ohms. And it got red hot during cycle. But heater would not fire up as expected. Did hire a pro. He looked today and believes issue is still bad ignitor. He said even though it is heating up it needs to reach maximum heat point at the tip to combust. And older ones just don’t get hot enough over time.
Have a new one on order and will report back once replaced.
See my thread for more info.
I did this. Mine tested 14 ohms. And it got red hot during cycle. But heater would not fire up as expected. Did hire a pro. He looked today and believes issue is still bad ignitor. He said even though it is heating up it needs to reach maximum heat point at the tip to combust. And older ones just don’t get hot enough over time.
Have a new one on order and will report back once replaced.
See my thread for more info.
Replaced the ignitor today and it works! Thank you guys for your help, i'll keep you posted if any updates.
Is it usually the blower that's gone bad? and is that even worth replacing since it's from 2003
swamprat69
Well-known member
Is the blower making any noise when the heater starts up? Is the blower getting voltage supplied when the heater starts up? Have you checked the blower capacitor visually for case swelling and with a meter reading microfarads to see if it is within plus or minus 10% of the rated microfarads printed on the capacitor?
swamprat69
Well-known member
It looks like the multimeter that you are using will not measure microfarads. This inexpensive multimeter from Amazon will give you the ability to measure almost all of the parameters that you might need. Amazon.com: AmazonCommercial 6000 Count Digital Multimeter, IP67, True RMS, CATIV 600V: Industrial & Scientific
