Pool filter valve

[VargusAZ]

Good afternoon,
I noticed a couple of months ago that the valve on top of my pool filter does not easily lock back into place. Today after I cleaned the pump basket (not the filter), I turned the pump on and per the manual I open the valve to release the air, however I can not lock it back on. I had for now to tape it and hope it won't move and start leaking. Any suggestions? Do I need to take it apart and clean it? Maybe there is a washer inside that must be replaced?
See pictures attached showing the two notches and how far it is from locking into place. For some reason it looks like one side is slightly further away from locking into place? Maybe the "stick" going into the notch is bent on one side?

Your help is greatly appreciated.

 

[HermanTX]

Suggest you turn off the pump - then turn it completely locked. Then turn on pump.
Since you have already bled the air, it should be fine.

 

[JamesW]

Take it apart and clean and lubricate the oring.

Slightly lift the tab as you unscrew the valve.

Or, turn it upside down and squirt some spray silicone lubricant into the valve and open and close it a few times.

Rinse it out well first to clean out any debris.

 

[VargusAZ]

Suggest you turn off the pump - then turn it completely locked. Then turn on pump.
Since you have already bled the air, it should be fine.

I can't lock it in place with the pump on or off

 

[VargusAZ]

Take it apart and clean and lubricate the oring.

Slightly lift the tab as you unscrew the valve.

Or, turn it upside down and squirt some spray silicone lubricant into the valve and open and close it a few times.

Rinse it out well first to clean out any debris.

@JamesW I have never done this, can you please provide more details?
So I can unscrew the valve from the top of the filter, then how do I take the valve apart?
Thanks

 

[JamesW]

Unscrew the valve from the filter.

Make sure that the pump is off at the breaker and not just the timer.

The valve comes apart into two pieces.

Rotate the top part while lifting slightly on the tabs that you can see in the picture.

 

[HermanTX]

@JamesW I have never done this, can you please provide more details?
So I can unscrew the valve from the top of the filter, then how do I take the valve apart?
Thanks

You see those tabs on the black plastic piece. There is 1 on each side. They need to be pulled outward slightly to allow you to rotate the top off of the valve. Be sure to turn off pump, turn off breaker for pump and bleed filter.

 

[HermanTX]

@VargusAZ I was doing some maintenance today and decided to take my Pentair Highflow Manual Air Relief Valve apart You have to slightly pull out the 2 tabs (opposite each other) and continue to rotate counterclockwise and slightly pull up to release the top part which also contains the pressure gauge on top. Also, there are 2 little protruding tabs that must align to 2 holes to separate the top from the lower piece (the lower piece remains on the filter top). There are 2 o-rings on the stem of the part that you removed. These create a seal when in full lock position. If either are damaged then that could be causing the piece not to full rotate into the lock position.
Well I thought it be good to pull mine off and replace them or lube them up. I went to 2 different pool stores and neither carry just the orings but they wanted to sell me a whole new valve. So I went to Ace Hardware and found 2 orings that matched to the original orings. The lower one (the smallest of the 2) is 5/16" ID x 1/2" OD and 3/32 body diameter. ACE #59597. The upper o-ring is 3/4" ID x 7/8" OD and 1/16" body diameter. ACE #56012. They cost 0.79cents and 0.69cents respectively. I lubed them up and put these on and replaced the upper piece and it smoothly went into place. I then put on my pump, let the pressure build, opened the valve to release air and then closed it. All worked well and no leaks. Hope this helps you, especially if you need to replace one of the orings.

 

[VargusAZ]

@VargusAZ I was doing some maintenance today and decided to take my Pentair Highflow Manual Air Relief Valve apart You have to slightly pull out the 2 tabs (opposite each other) and continue to rotate counterclockwise and slightly pull up to release the top part which also contains the pressure gauge on top. Also, there are 2 little protruding tabs that must align to 2 holes to separate the top from the lower piece (the lower piece remains on the filter top). There are 2 o-rings on the stem of the part that you removed. These create a seal when in full lock position. If either are damaged then that could be causing the piece not to full rotate into the lock position.
Well I thought it be good to pull mine off and replace them or lube them up. I went to 2 different pool stores and neither carry just the orings but they wanted to sell me a whole new valve. So I went to Ace Hardware and found 2 orings that matched to the original orings. The lower one (the smallest of the 2) is 5/16" ID x 1/2" OD and 3/32 body diameter. ACE #59597. The upper o-ring is 3/4" ID x 7/8" OD and 1/16" body diameter. ACE #56012. They cost 0.79cents and 0.69cents respectively. I lubed them up and put these on and replaced the upper piece and it smoothly went into place. I then put on my pump, let the pressure build, opened the valve to release air and then closed it. All worked well and no leaks. Hope this helps you, especially if you need to replace one of the orings.

Thank you! I will be trying this over the week end. I hope I did not damage any of the pieces by trying several times. I will send pictures when I open it.
Did you have to use thread Sealing tape when you put the valve back on top of the filter?
Also, I noticed you said you waited until the pressure built up before you opened the valve, I thought the point of opening the valve was to avoid the air pressure to build up?
Thanks

 

[Rancho Cost-a-Lotta]

So I went to Ace Hardware and found 2 orings that matched to the original orings. The lower one (the smallest of the 2) is 5/16" ID x 1/2" OD and 3/32 body diameter. ACE #59597. The upper o-ring is 3/4" ID x 7/8" OD and 1/16" body diameter. ACE #56012.

So ironic! I did the same thing for the same part and went the same hardware store on the same day. I bought the same parts and had the same result. They had drawers full of different sizes.

Did you have to use thread Sealing tape when you put the valve back on top of the filter?

No sealing tape of any kind is needed. I used some silicone faucet lube on mine.

Also, I noticed you said you waited until the pressure built up before you opened the valve, I thought the point of opening the valve was to avoid the air pressure to build up?

Since the filter's already open, install the valve, leave it open and start the pump. Bleed off the air and shut the valve, turning counter-clockwise. When you shut the pump down, listen closely to the valve for an leaking air.

 

[JamesW]

I did the same thing for the same part and went the same hardware store on the same day.

You went 1,483 miles to get two O-rings?

That's what I call dedicated to pool service.

 

[HermanTX]

Did you have to use thread Sealing tape when you put the valve back on top of the filter?

For clarity. The Air Relief valve is 2 pieces. The bottom half is threaded on the bottom and screws into the top of the filter. I did not remove this piece. This remains screwed in.
The top piece of the Air Relief valve has a stem and 2 orings that rotates into the bottom half. You would not use the sealing tape on these. You would lube them up. See the picture below which is the top half and a close up of the 2 orings.

 

[Rancho Cost-a-Lotta]

You went 1,483 miles to get two O-rings?

That's what I call dedicated to pool service.

I needed a window screen repaired and 2.5" elbow HD and Lowes don't stock. Where else you gonna go.

 

[VargusAZ]

Thank you! This worked great I just cleaned the orings, lubricated them and it is working now. Can you please confirm if you typically lubricate orings in place or take them out?
What about the big one around the lead of the filter tank (see attached pic) do you lubricate this one as well?

I noticed today that my tank lead now has what looks like fuzzy sharp fiber glass on it. I had to go get some gloves. I am assuming this is common with the weather/heat?.
Thanks

For clarity. The Air Relief valve is 2 pieces. The bottom half is threaded on the bottom and screws into the top of the filter. I did not remove this piece. This remains screwed in.
The top piece of the Air Relief valve has a stem and 2 orings that rotates into the bottom half. You would not use the sealing tape on these. You would lube them up. See the picture below which is the top half and a close up of the 2 orings.
View attachment 315473View attachment 315474

 

[HermanTX]

Thank you! This worked great I just cleaned the orings, lubricated them and it is working now. Can you please confirm if you typically lubricate orings in place or take them out?

It is best to remove them. Do this by squeezing with 2 fingers (on opposite sides) so that it makes like an oval and you can then roll the oring out of the groove. Try not to use a sharp object to dig it out of the groove as that can damage the oring. Once out, clean the groove and then also clean the oring with a paper towel. Do not stretch the oring. Then take some lube and rub on the oring. Since these are small orings you can just work it around with your finger in palm of your hand.

What about the big one around the lead of the filter tank (see attached pic) do you lubricate this one as well?

This one should always be lubed if you remove the top. Since this is a large oring seal, remove it with 2 hands and try not to stretch it. Put lube on oring and work it around the entire circumference with your fingers. You may have to add several daps of lube as you work it around. Just let the oring hang as you work it around, do not stretch or pull on it. Also, clean the bottom and top sections where the oring will seal - you want to wipe those down with a rag to remove debris. Then place the oring back in place on the bottom half of the filter and ensure it is not twisted and sits properly on the circumference of the filter housing.

I noticed today that my tank lead now has what looks like fuzzy sharp fiber glass on it. I had to go get some gloves. I am assuming this is common with the weather/heat?.

This is in the inside of the filter top or bottom housings? This occurs because the housings contain fiberglass and it does breakdown overtime. Also best to use gloves because you do not want that sticking in your hand. Ensure where the oring seal is placed that it is smooth. The other areas I would not worry about. However, a couple of years ago, I bought a new filter because mine, of nearly 15 years, was showing real signs of wear. So it is something to watch. Just hose out the bottom and top housings to remove debris.

 

[VargusAZ]

It is on the outside of the filter top housing. Probably sun damaged?

Thanks