Pool Design & Specs - Please Critique - Pflugerville, TX

ans678

Member
Sep 6, 2021
11
Pflugerville, TX
Hi Everyone.

I would love to get your opinion on this pool design and specs.
I am still evaluating different pool designs and equipment and would love to get your feedback.
I included notes in red that I've learned so far and have questions on, but feel free to add anything else.
THANK YOU! :)

Pool Specs

Pool Size: 32x20
Pool Perimeter: 104ft
Pool Area: 560ft²
Pool Depth: 3.5 to 5.5 - still debating if we want to start with 3.5, thoughts?
Pool Gallons: 15,228

Spa Specs
Spa Dimensions 6x8
Spa Perimeter: 28ft
Spa Area: 48ft²
Spa Depth: 3.5ft
Spa Gallons: 675
Pool and Spa Gallons: 15,903
Water Feature #1 2 Bubblers

Equipment
Filter: Pentair Cartridge Filter 420sq - Request 520 instead?
Heater 1: Pentair 400K BTU Heater - Would like to switch to Electric heater - any recommendations? We aren't connected to gas (rural), so we depend on propane
Main Pump: Pentair Intelliflo 3HP VS - Is this good?
Spa Blower: 1HP Silencer Blower
Control Panel: Pentair PSL 4 - - Request Intellicenter?
Remote Control: Screenlogic Wi-Fi
Pool Lights: Pentair Globrite LED. Quantity: 3 - From feedback on forum, request Microbrite instead of Globrite?
Spa Light: Pentair Globrite LED. Quantity: 1 From feedback on forum, request Microbrite instead of Globrite?
Optional Features
Sanitization - Inline Chlorinator Request Pentair IC40 or IC60?
Extra Sanitization - Salt Generation - is there a specific one to request?

Water Line Fill -
Not Included

Drains - Standard
Skimmers - Standard Skimmer

Plaster
Pebble Sheen (Tier 1)
Tile: Emser Products - anyone heard of this?

Construction Specs

Pool Pipes: Schedule 40 PVC.
Returns: (5) Directional Inlets, Looped for even pressure.
Skimmers: (2) Independently plumbed for optimum control.
Drains: (4) 10" Top, VGB compliant
Spa Pipes: 2 1/2"" Schedule 40 PVC, suction and returned
Spa Jets: (6) Spa Jets
Spa Air: 1.5" Dedicated air lines

Steel and Gunite

Pool Shell: 1/2" Grade 60 Steel Rebar on 10" Centers, both directions
Pool Bond Beam: 1/2" Grade 60 Steel Rebar x4
Concrete: Gunite/Shotcrete rated to a minimum 4000 PSI
Thickness: 12" Bond Beam, 8-10" Walls/ Floor

Decking
Reinforcement: 3/8" Rebar 16" on center, 4" Crushed Base, up to 1/2" of Mastic
 

Attachments

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Nice looking design.

My pool depth is 3.5' - 5'. I would not go less than 4' deep in the shallow end. If I am in the shallow end I am typically walking around on my knees. Initially went with the 3.5' as my daughter is vertically challenged and I wanted her to be comfortable being able to stand. Well guess what. She grew. And now that 3.5' seems really shallow. My next pool will be 4' minimum in the shallow end.

Get the biggest filter you can. It will save you having to clean it multiple times a season.

An electric heater will not heat your spa very quickly. I have a MasterTemp 400 heater and it heats my spa about 1 degree a minute. Something to consider is that a gunite spa is nothing like a stand alone hot tub. The seats are typically nothing more than a concrete bench that is not contoured or anything. If you are not wanting to run a gas heater, and you have to have a spa, a stand alone hot tub may be a better fit for you.

Definitely request Intellicenter. At a minimum, get rid of the PSL, which is a 'lite' version. @Jimrahbe can offer a little better information on the Easytouch systems.

Globrites do not have the best track record. Definitely go with Microbrites as that way you can use any nicheless light in the future, if those should also have issues.

Your PB is installing an inline chlorinator (which you will likely never use) and a SWCG. With a ~16,000 gallon pool, an IC40 should be just fine.

Emser is a tile distributor. Your builder will likely have you visit their showroom to pick your tile. He will have an allowance for tile and only specific tiles will be included in that allowance. Anything else would be an upgrade and a cost impact.

Good luck!

--Jeff
 
678,

Without gas, I would not get a spa.. Have you ever been in a gunite spa before? If not, please try one before you buy one.

3.5' is too shallow, go 4'

The CCP 420 will work, but I'd go with the 520. Bigger is always better for filters.

The IntelliFlo pump is the "Gold Standard" for VS pool pumps.

The PSLite4 is a cheap version of the real thing.. Get a "real" EasyTouch, or better yet the new IntelliCenter
You only need ScreenLogic if you get the EasyTouch, it is not needed for the IntelliCenter. Either will work for you.

The IntelliChlor IC40 or IC60 is your Saltwater Chlorine Generator (SWCG)... The IC40 should work just fine, the IC60 should last a little longer..

Make sure your main drain is plumbed back to the equipment pad.. I suspect it will be, just make sure it is..

Thanks,

Jim R.
 
My build thread (Build Thread) might be useful to you.

still debating if we want to start with 3.5, thoughts?
I would suggest 4'.

Request 520 instead?
Yes.

Is this good?
Yes, the it's the gold standard (011028 VS or 011056 VSF)

Request Intellicenter?
Yes, I would suggest that.

request Microbrite instead of Globrite?
Yes, absolutely.

Request Pentair IC40 or IC60?
Yes. You'd be fine with an IC40, but for a little more money you can upgrade to the IC60 which would last longer. I would suggest removing the inline tab feeder.

Water Line Fill - Not Included
You're going to want one, as well as an overflow.
 
We have propane as well. For the Gas heater we got, ( Jandy ) it will work with propane. You may check with PB to verify if the heater they are proposing can be used with propane.

For the Auto Fill line, my builder does not recommend them. And even some cities (In my area) are not approving designs with them cause they can mask leaks and waste water. Which as you know down here in TX can be a precious resource all year round.

To run your SPA and water features at the same time my builder recommended a second booster pump. If you want that you may ask them about a second pump.
 
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678,

There is a lot of difference between a water "fill line" and an automatic fill line..

I too am not in favor of the automatic water fill line.. But believe that a manual fill line should be mandatory..

I don't like automatic fill lines just because they can easily hide pool leaks. But you should not have to drag a hose across the deck to just add water to your pool.. A manual fill line lets you decide when to turn it on to add water to your pool, without having to use a hose.

I also recommend an overflow port at some point other than the knock-out hole in the back of the skimmer..

Thanks,

Jim R.
 
We love our auto fill. Ours got turned off when our pool was drained but didn't get turned back on and we couldn't figure out how to fix it. Such a pain without it! We ended up over filling it and had to drain it. I wouldn't want to do that on a regular basis.
 
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I also recommend an overflow port at some point other than the knock-out hole in the back of the skimmer..

Thanks,

Jim R.
[/QUOTE]

Hi jim-
Not sure if you saw my post, but I'm just about to have the autodrain plumbed. I do have an autofill that has the .75 inch port however my PB is recommending it instead be plumbed to the back of the skimmer. Any thoughts on which is better? Thx!
 
K,

I just like the larger ones that mount in the side wall of the pool.. They have a 2-inch opening and fit under the coping. Any overflow is better than no overflow at all.

No matter what size, they all need to go to "daylight" and not just dump the water into the ground with no exit.

Thanks,

Jim R.
 
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@Turbo1Ton So the pool guy came back at me when I asked about the chlorinator,
"We always include an inline chlorinator cause salt chlorine generation units don't work under 35 degrees Fahrenheit. Very cheap unit and offers a nice alternative"...

Is he pulling my leg or does this make sense?

Thank you for any feedback :)
 
@Turbo1Ton So the pool guy came back at me when I asked about the chlorinator,
"We always include an inline chlorinator cause salt chlorine generation units don't work under 35 degrees Fahrenheit. Very cheap unit and offers a nice alternative"...

Is he pulling my leg or does this make sense?

Thank you for any feedback :)
The IntelliChlor SWG will stop producing chlorine at 52 (+/-3) degrees F.

During the winter when the water is cold, the chlorine demand is very low. You can manually dose with liquid chlorine during that time period.
 
I am in to watch this one! LOVE the design! So much right-good swim lane, good hang out spot to chat and watch TV by the house, good bench to hang out.

The inline is not needed but will not hurt anything. Like @pjt said the SWG will not work during the burrr times but you can use liquid chlorine instead. The inline can be used IF you have lower CYA. I am going to link you to thread so you can start learning all of these letters LOL:
TFPC for Beginners

Kim :kim:
 
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As PJT stated, most SWCG have a cold water shutoff somewhere in the low to mid 50's temperature range, and with the minimal chlorine demand you switch to dosing with liquid chlorine for a few months. Most chlorine tabs will add CYA to your water also, causing your CYA to increase to unsustainable limits, which is why you want to use liquid chlorine instead.

The Pentair is 52 (+/-3), although the salt calculation likely becomes off before then so if it's like mine it is closer to 60 degrees because it thinks the salt is low and I refuse to add more.

I cannot imagine using an inline chlorinator to chlorinate my pool. I dose with liquid in the fall/winter/early spring when the water temps are too low. I don't know how much chlorine I go through. Not a lot. I dose maybe once a week. I tested this past weekend, and it had been 9 days since my last test. CL was down to 6.5 from 9. I brought it back up to 8. Will test again next weekend.

I'd leave it out if it were mine, just to avoid cluttering up the piping.

Kim gave you a link to the TFPC for beginners thread. Read through that and then read through the ABC's (ABC's of Pool Water Chemistry), if you haven't already, to begin understanding the water chemistry side of your pool. The word chemistry makes it sound difficult, but it is dirt simple. And there are lots of people here willing to help you understand it! It may not click until you start doing it (it didn't with me) but once you do, it takes a couple of weeks of regular testing and then you get it and it's quick and easy and you think "why, when I was a kid, was my dad always cussing at the pool?"

--Jeff
 
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We love our auto fill. Ours got turned off when our pool was drained but didn't get turned back on and we couldn't figure out how to fix it. Such a pain without it! We ended up over filling it and had to drain it. I wouldn't want to do that on a regular basis.
We have an autofill and I really like it too. But my builder showed me how to turn it off via a separate spigot by the hose. I turned it off this winter as I wanted to fill more with rain (which was not much unfortunately). The water slowly got to lower than I prefer and I turned it back on Feb and forgot about it. I would've overflowed the refill if I didn't have it. If you get one, just make sure it's easy to turn on/off.
 
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and????? did you sign???
Yes!!! :D BUT I had my heart set on blue granite... and turns out it wasn't included in their "tier 1" so I have spent like 3 hours looking at Blue Surf photos to come to terms with my "second" choice. :LOL: haha I'll update final pics of the design and the color choices soon. Wish us luck!! And also update my signature soon with the specs. So glad I found this forum.
 
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Blue Surf Smurf
I fixed it for you!!! This is one of my all times fav color! When it is first put on it DOES look just like Smurf blue. As they wash the cream off and it cures it settles to a wonderful blue color. The water color is wonderful! You are going to love it!

Make sure to post equipment WITH model numbers so we can go over it for you.

Kim:kim:
 

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