Plumbing failures

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W

Wester97

Well-known member
Mar 31, 2019
65
Texas
My neighbor dug up his yard before we finally figured out that all the water was coming from my pool plumbing!

Problem 1:
It seems that the couplers for these check valves have failed (do I really need 2?) and water is still flowing out of the bottom most joint - this is the pool side, so will it continue to flow backward until it drains down to the eyeball jets? Because of the way the plumbing is done, it seems like I need to replace the check valve(s).
Screenshot_2_19_21__1_09_PM.png

Problem 2:
This crazy looking pipe that is on the output side of the heater. It obviously needs to be replaced, but what do I need to connect to the heater?
Screenshot_2_19_21__1_08_PM.png

Thank you all so much!
 
If you're sure that second component is a check valve, then no, you don't need two. The top one looks to be the kind where a smaller pipe fits inside the port and a larger coupler fits on the outside, so it can handle more than one size of pipe. So technically you might be able to reuse that check valve if you use reducers, but you'd be choking the flow somewhat. If it were mine, I'd replace it with one that had ports that better fit the rest of my plumbing (pipe size).

The output of the heater might need CPVC pipe and fittings, for some length. That withstands higher temps than regular PVC. I'm not an expert in such things, so lets see what others say about that... If CPVC is the answer, you'll need CPVC glue for that, and then I think a special glue to go from CPVC back to PVC. (You'll need a confirmation on that, too, but that is my recollection about CPVC.)

@mas985, how does one replace the pipe that comes out of the heater (rusted grey in the pic), and with what?
 
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Is there a raised spa? Or a solar heater system? If you fill in your signature (like mine) and post a few pics of your equipment pad from several angles, maybe we can help you figure out what's what.

If that pipe leads to the pool returns, sometimes plumbers will put a check valve just before a chlorinator. I've never seen that on a vertical pipe, but if the red arrow is pointing to where an SWG once was, some plumbers will add a check valve before it, even though it's not needed. It's a throw back to using a check valve between heater and tab feeder.
 
Well, I tried to call in @mas985, but he's not checked in yet. Maybe @ajw22 has some ideas. Or if the heater is still being manufactured, perhaps a call to their service dept or tech support can point you in the right direction.
 
See page 10 in http://manuals.chudov.com/Teledyne-Pool-Heaters/Teledyne-LD-LG-Owners-Manual.pdf 2G-1 and figure 11 for a buildup of the water connection.

You have a threaded CPVC nipple that screws into the flange. I don't see anyway to unscrew the CPVC nipple with the elbow on it.

You could try cutting the PVC at the bulge and unbolting the flange if you can get the rusty bolts out. Once you do that you can ream out the elbow with a Hub Saver and be able to reuse the flange, CPVC nipple and elbow.

Otherwise you may need to replace some parts. You can find parts for your heater at...

Pool Heaters Teledyne Laars Series 2

Pool Heaters Teledyne Laars Series 2
www.parts4heating.com

Good luck. An experienced plumber may be able to do this a lot faster and have the right tools and parts.
 

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Unions are always nice to have but may be more work to get your heater going.
 
Before deciding on the unions, I would try removing the flange first. Those bolts are pretty rusted so you may end up replacing more than you think.
 
First unscrew the flange from the nipple. Then see if you can't unscrew the nipple from the 90. It appears to be glued but I can't tell for sure. There is a technique where you can separate an old glue joint using a heat gun but that is difficult to do well. But given the pipe has swelled, it might be better to just replace it.

If you decide on replacing that section of pipe, I would probably cut the pipe well down the line where the pipe starts traveling down again. That area has the most real estate but will require replacing quite a bit of pipe. Plus you can easily put a coupler there so you probably don't really need a union.
 
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