Plumbing failures

Wester97

Active member
Mar 31, 2019
41
Texas
My neighbor dug up his yard before we finally figured out that all the water was coming from my pool plumbing!

Problem 1:
It seems that the couplers for these check valves have failed (do I really need 2?) and water is still flowing out of the bottom most joint - this is the pool side, so will it continue to flow backward until it drains down to the eyeball jets? Because of the way the plumbing is done, it seems like I need to replace the check valve(s).
Screenshot_2_19_21__1_09_PM.png

Problem 2:
This crazy looking pipe that is on the output side of the heater. It obviously needs to be replaced, but what do I need to connect to the heater?
Screenshot_2_19_21__1_08_PM.png

Thank you all so much!
 

Dirk

Gold Supporter
TFP Guide
Nov 12, 2017
8,349
Central California
Pool Size
12300
Surface
Plaster
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
SWG Type
Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
If you're sure that second component is a check valve, then no, you don't need two. The top one looks to be the kind where a smaller pipe fits inside the port and a larger coupler fits on the outside, so it can handle more than one size of pipe. So technically you might be able to reuse that check valve if you use reducers, but you'd be choking the flow somewhat. If it were mine, I'd replace it with one that had ports that better fit the rest of my plumbing (pipe size).

The output of the heater might need CPVC pipe and fittings, for some length. That withstands higher temps than regular PVC. I'm not an expert in such things, so lets see what others say about that... If CPVC is the answer, you'll need CPVC glue for that, and then I think a special glue to go from CPVC back to PVC. (You'll need a confirmation on that, too, but that is my recollection about CPVC.)

@mas985, how does one replace the pipe that comes out of the heater (rusted grey in the pic), and with what?
 
Last edited:

Wester97

Active member
Mar 31, 2019
41
Texas
I'm also curious about what is flowing back to this check valve and how. This is the pool line, but the pool is lower than this check valve. Thanks!
 

Dirk

Gold Supporter
TFP Guide
Nov 12, 2017
8,349
Central California
Pool Size
12300
Surface
Plaster
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
SWG Type
Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
Is there a raised spa? Or a solar heater system? If you fill in your signature (like mine) and post a few pics of your equipment pad from several angles, maybe we can help you figure out what's what.

If that pipe leads to the pool returns, sometimes plumbers will put a check valve just before a chlorinator. I've never seen that on a vertical pipe, but if the red arrow is pointing to where an SWG once was, some plumbers will add a check valve before it, even though it's not needed. It's a throw back to using a check valve between heater and tab feeder.
 

Dirk

Gold Supporter
TFP Guide
Nov 12, 2017
8,349
Central California
Pool Size
12300
Surface
Plaster
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
SWG Type
Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
Well, I tried to call in @mas985, but he's not checked in yet. Maybe @ajw22 has some ideas. Or if the heater is still being manufactured, perhaps a call to their service dept or tech support can point you in the right direction.
 

ajw22

Gold Supporter
TFP Guide
Jul 21, 2013
22,113
Northern NJ
Pool Size
35000
Surface
Plaster
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
SWG Type
Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
See page 10 in http://manuals.chudov.com/Teledyne-Pool-Heaters/Teledyne-LD-LG-Owners-Manual.pdf 2G-1 and figure 11 for a buildup of the water connection.

You have a threaded CPVC nipple that screws into the flange. I don't see anyway to unscrew the CPVC nipple with the elbow on it.

You could try cutting the PVC at the bulge and unbolting the flange if you can get the rusty bolts out. Once you do that you can ream out the elbow with a Hub Saver and be able to reuse the flange, CPVC nipple and elbow.

Otherwise you may need to replace some parts. You can find parts for your heater at...


Good luck. An experienced plumber may be able to do this a lot faster and have the right tools and parts.
 

ajw22

Gold Supporter
TFP Guide
Jul 21, 2013
22,113
Northern NJ
Pool Size
35000
Surface
Plaster
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
SWG Type
Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
Unions are always nice to have but may be more work to get your heater going.
 

mas985

TFP Expert
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May 3, 2007
13,855
Pleasanton, CA
Pool Size
20000
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Before deciding on the unions, I would try removing the flange first. Those bolts are pretty rusted so you may end up replacing more than you think.
 

Wester97

Active member
Mar 31, 2019
41
Texas
This is what I found: I'm not quite sure a union will work here directly. Or, is the idea that I should use the CPVC nipple, and then a union to my PVC plumbing?

Screenshot_2_22_21__4_16_PM.png
 

mas985

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May 3, 2007
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Pleasanton, CA
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First unscrew the flange from the nipple. Then see if you can't unscrew the nipple from the 90. It appears to be glued but I can't tell for sure. There is a technique where you can separate an old glue joint using a heat gun but that is difficult to do well. But given the pipe has swelled, it might be better to just replace it.

If you decide on replacing that section of pipe, I would probably cut the pipe well down the line where the pipe starts traveling down again. That area has the most real estate but will require replacing quite a bit of pipe. Plus you can easily put a coupler there so you probably don't really need a union.
 

mas985

TFP Expert
LifeTime Supporter
May 3, 2007
13,855
Pleasanton, CA
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The nipple might be fine. It might just be a failure of the thread seal.