Please help. Green pool. Filter not working? High nitrates.

[Dogwell]

Pool is 18 ft x 36 ft. On the shallow end, it is about 4 ft. On the deep end, it is about 8 ft. Our terrain is hilly so lengthwise, half is above ground and the other half is below ground. There is a concrete floor and wooden sides, supported by steel supports. There is a vinyl cover with a large rip in one corner and lots of wrinkles on the floor. The previous owner used to fill the pool with the well water. We have an extremely large oak tree and lots of other trees so leaves are constantly falling in. There is a chlorinator and I've been leaving the pump on 24 x 7, but the chlorine isn't staying. The pool turned green overnight two days ago when I turned the filter off because of torrential rain and my inability to clean the leaves. If I don't clean the leaves, the skimmer basket overflows and floats away. I was afraid that means the leaves would get into the filter system and clog it.

Hi. I tried making a signature, but it didn't work. I hope this information is everything. I will try to post my chemical readings tomorrow. I had the water tested from the pool store. The nitrates were very high that they said I'd need to empty the pool 83% to bring the level down and because of the high nitrates the chlorine isn't staying.

Thank you.

 

[Dogwell]

Hi. Sorry, I am new to this and wasn't able to post everything. We are new to pools. We bought our house last year and closed it immediately because it turned green and we weren't sure what to do. We opened the pool (paid someone to do it, same person that closed it last year). I have been having the pool water tested by the local company every week or so. Initially things seemed ok, but after about 1 month we had to start shocking the pool with 4 lbs of chlorine (I bought the bags from costco) because our test results came back saying not enough chlorine. I wasn't sure why this was happening because we left the pump on all the time and I was under the impression there would be enough chlorine that way. All of a sudden 2 days ago our pool turned completely green. I am not sure what to do now. The pool store dis some other tests when I said it happened overnight and they told me the nitrates are extremely high.

This pool is 20 years old and EVERYTHING is original. If we are going to keep it, I would like to fix things properly. I think the cost of water alone is going to be $1500+ so I don't want to drain the water now. The pool store said I could put 5 oz of chlorine half an hour before we swim to keep it safe. Is that right? My girls are 1 and 3. I don't want to take risks with their health.

If we replace the liner, what so you recommend we get?

There are 4 x Filburr FC 1492 cartridges and they are very very old and dirty even after cleaning. They are expensive at $100 each. I have been reading the forum and saw several recommendations for Quad DE Cartridge filters. Is it possible for me to switch to that system? Will it help with the green pool?

Should we replace the pool pump while we are doing all of this other stuff?

Please help. I am completely lost here. I thought we were ok for a bit just following pool store recommendations but with this green pool I am way over my head.

Many many thanks.

 

[triptyx]

Welcome to TFP. We've brought back pools that were worse than yours from the "dead", stick with us and we'll help you.

Before you do anything, we need accurate chemical measurements. No filter on the planet can stop algae - only proper chlorination. In order to establish the correct approach for your pool, you'll need a complete testing kit. We recommend the TF-100 as the absolute best value, especially given what you've said here. The K-2006C is also adequate (but has less tests that you're going to need).

You can get a TF-100 here: TFTestkits.net
I'd recommend the "XL" add-on to make sure you have enough test reagents to get the pool cleaned up.

5oz of chlorine isn't going to do it. Nitrates aren't your problem - very likely it's that the CYA is too high. Let's get a test kit on order, and while you're waiting for that, pour one bottle of concentrated bleach (it needs to be plain, unscented bleach, and not advertised as "EZ-Pour" or "Splashless" or "Low Splash", etc) in a day. The pool is not safe to swim in right now, period. If there is algae, there's also bacteria and other mess that you don't want to expose the little ones to. Once you have a test kit, we need a full set of numbers (I've bolded the very important ones for your problem):

FC (Free Chlorine)
CC (Combined Chlorine)
pH
TA (Total Alkalinity)
CH (Calicum Hardness)
CYA (Cyanuric Acid)


Pool store testing won't cut it - they're often inaccurate and, as you've seen, give you terrible advice that costs you a lot of money and doesn't fix your problem.

While you're waiting for your kit, a little homework - please read these articles as they are the foundation of what we follow here:
Pool School - ABCs of Pool Water Chemistry
Pool School - How to Chlorinate Your Pool
Pool School - Recommended Pool Chemicals
Pool School - Defeating Algae

This isn't a "pour in this potion and POOF! - your problems are over!" situation. But you'll have a clean and clear pool that's ready for your family to swim in if you let us help you out. Please feel free to ask questions you may have about what I've said, we're here to help.

 

[Oly]

You are not over your head but you need to step up and get control of this situation.

You need information. About your water, about proper pool sanitation and about your options.

Check out the pool school and learn what you need to know......Pool School - ABCs of Pool Water Chemistry

Get yourself a quality pool water test kit and learn to use it. Trust pool store test data at your own risk.........Pool School - Test Kits Compared

Learn to use the pool math calculator.......https://www.troublefreepool.com/calc.html

If you have specific questions ask away there are many here who will guide you along your journey.

A safe pool is the goal and understanding how to keep it safe for the least amount of $$ and hassle is the way to go. You may have options but without good test data nobody knows your situation.

 

[Sidecarist]

I HAD a similar situation, I purchased a home with a pool and no previous pool experience. The first few weeks were discouraging for sure. THen I learned that I could test my own water, and also the relationship of Chlorine and CYA Stabilizer. I had used so much shock that the CYA was off the charts. At that point I started following the systems used on this site, and now I understand how to balance my pool. My advice?

1. Get a full test kit
2. Get your pool under YOUR control by following the SLAM process. It may take many trips to Walmart for bleach but its the best way!
3. Learn to use Pool Math to make your adjustments.
4. Stop buying expensive pool chemicals from the pool store. The only "POOL" chemicals I buy now are CYA Stabilizer, and Sequestrant for metals. Everything else I need comes from the grocery store, or hardware store.
5. Be PATIENT It took me about 3-4 weeks the first time to get the pool under control, and another month to find the sweet spot that keeps my pool balanced with a minimum of fuss.
6. Keep notes of all of your testing and adjustments. This really helped me identify when things became stable, and set up my target values. THis let me open my pool and have it balanced and swim-able (but COLD) in just a couple of days this spring.

Everyone here has been very helpful and they really have a passion for helping you get your pool safe and stable. I am grateful for all the help I have received.

 

[Dogwell]

Thank you all. I have ordered the test kit. Is it ok to put more than 1 gallon of the bleach in right now?

 

[jstephens1]

What shape is your pool?


If rectangle it looks to be about 27000 gallons and 121 oz of bleach raises the FC by 3.

Using more than a gallon a day would be a waste until you know your real levels.

Read through the pool school. Focus on the FC to CYA relationship.

Once you can test and find your cya the experts here can guide you on the next steps

 

[Dogwell]

The pool is rectangle. 18 x 36 ft. I am waiting on the my pool kit to arrive, but from the pool test results, the CYA level is over 159. I checked the pool math website and that suggested I have yo remove the water and refill

 

[jstephens1]

It’s hard to say with store testing it could really be 70 or 250. That’s why it’s best to wait before dumping tons of bleach in.

 

[Dogwell]

I found the poolschool page on CYA/FC and it appears as if I am way over the recommended CYA levels and a drain and refill is required.

Pool School - Chlorine / CYA Chart

- - - Updated - - -

Ok. So should I wait until the pool test kit arrives? Or put 1 gallon of bleach a day until it comes? Or do nothing?

Should I leave the filter running or shut it off?

Thank you.

 

[jstephens1]

See my last post. Just go with the gallon per day until you can test yourself. Many here have seen how far off the pool store testing is.

 

[Sidecarist]

Putting in a gallon a day won't hurt, even two probably won't hurt for a couple of days if you want to spend the money. Your choice....

Sadly if you do find that your cya is super high a partial drain is the only solution. My first year I over did it with shock before I learned about what it does, and had to do a 50% drain to get to a cya of 80. Once I got there I could keep the pool under control.

You should have your kit pretty quick then you will be on your way to being independent of pool store testing.

Patience will be needed to allow the changes you make to take effect. I learned the hard way to not rush the results.

 

[Dogwell]

Thank you. Hopefully my testing kit comes in by Monday and i can report back with the results. I've been reading quite a bit on this website and it seems as if the chlorinator / all the shocking previous owner did may have led to the high CYA levels (if they are indeed high). To avoid this problem in the future, I should stick to liquid chlorine. Is that right? What does that mean for the chlorinator? Can that remain empty without tabs or do I have to get it out of the setup? Is there such a thing as an auto liquid chlorinator or is it best to just add it in manually?

 

[AftonJeeper]

Yes liquid chlorine is the best. Leave the chlorinator there, you can use it on vacation.

If manual additions of chlorine get old look into a stenner pump or liquidator.

 

[Shekkie]

Yes liquid chlorine is the best. Leave the chlorinator there, you can use it on vacation.

If manual additions of chlorine get old look into a stenner pump or liquidator.

.....or an SWG.

 

[Dogwell]

Hi. The test kit came today, but I am really confused on how to use it! I also bought the recommended speed stirrer. Is there a video you can direct me to so I can see how to do these tests? Thank you.

 

[AftonJeeper]

I haven't seen a video of any of the test, I also haven't looked for one but here is a link to the extended test kit directions.

If you have a specific test you need clarification on please ask.

 

[mknauss]

There are You Tube videos of doing the tests -- I need to save that link next time -- try searching you tube for TFP or Taylor water tests.

 

[jstephens1]

not sure what kit you bought but here is one
TF-100 Test Kit - YouTube

 

[mknauss]

not sure what kit you bought but here is one
TF-100 Test Kit - YouTube

Thanks! I found the Taylor one too. Bookmarked them!