Pipework to install a SWG

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Ian196499

Ian196499

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Aug 12, 2018
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Hi,

I'm going to upgrade to a SWG system and would appreciate some advice on the pipework as I'm a bit stumped on the best way forward.

As I understand it I need to install the SWG cell as the last item before the return to the pool. As you may be able to see from the attached photos its a bit tight. The return from the heat pump is the upper elbow on the right hand side coming through the wall, there is a non-return flow valve in this line which then has the input from the rainbow feeder and then returns to the pool via a double elbow.

Ideally I could strip out the rainbow feeder and the non-return valve, install a new piece of pipework with the SWG in it and away I'd go. However, I can't see how I'd get the pipework in place without digging out the two elbows from the wall which I'm a bit hesitant to do.
I was told once that its best to avoid too many bends in the pipework as it reduces the flow?

Any advice would be very gratefully received.

Thanks
Ian


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Dont worry about a few more 90s. You will not see a difference.

You can mount a SWG and flow switch vertically. Cut out after the right elbow and left elbow leaving stubs. From the right elbow come out 90, then a straight pipe out to give some room, then a 90 up, then the SWG vertically, followed by the flow switch if the SWG has a separate one, then some 90s back down to connect to the other elbow.

Let’s see what ideas others have.
 
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I agree with Allen's approach. Can't really tell how much room you have for a "horizontal loop" but if you have the room that's a possibility as well. That was the best fit on my pad. If you do this you'll need to build a PVC saddle to install where you see the wood blocks supporting mine. See the photo below. Also, when you're dealing with PVC be sure to do a fit up without glue. Soapy water helps bottom out the fittings. When it's all nice and square mark each fitting with a pencil along the edge of the outer fitting and a perpendicular line across each. When you add glue line up with your pencil marks. Don't use a magic marker or pen since the glue will remove the marks. Then assemble right to your marks for a perfectly square professional look. I also cased the wires in split corrugated wire loom for protection from elements and a professional look as well.

I hope this helps.

Chris

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Chris,

That looks doable also. Thanks for the advice on how to do the cuts as well. I'll definitely follow that.

Your set up looks very professionally done so if I match that I'll be delighted.

What is the chamber with the see-through top for in your set-up after the SWG?

Cheers
Ian
 
Another thought, how much room or space is out by the heat pump?

You will glad you converted, I just did and life it so much easier. I debated it for a year and the last time I opened the bucket of puck's and was jumped back and it STILL burned my eyes I was done :)
 
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Unfortunately there is even less scope for fitting at the heat pump side.
Definitely going to do it. However, reading further I now understand that the TA needs to be in the range 60-80 and mine is 160 coming from the fill-up water is at about 220!
so I’ve now got a fountain and am about to embark on reducing the TA as per the TFP article !
 
Ian,

You'll be able to reduce the TA with a couple of pH cycles using MA and I wouldn't let that stand in the way of the piping work or adding the salt in prep for starting the SWG.

Chris
 
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A SWG will run fine with a high TA.

What article did you read that?

It is better to have a low TA to keep your CSI negative and prevent scale from accumulating on the plates. But there are various ways of achieving that.
 
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Allen

in the Pool School “Water Balance for SWGs”. It says “Adjust your Total Alkalinity to 60-80 ppm. (This is IMPORTANT!)”.

I read another article ( which I now can’t find). Which was called something like “All about TA” ( it had a better title than that..) where is said that the CSI inside the SWG is different to that inside the pool and with a high TA the pH can rise significantly thus causing calcium carbonate to precipitate out with the result that you get a showing effect on the return water.
I have to confess that it’s 40 years since I studied any chemistry and I wasn’t the great then so this is all absolutely at the limits of my understanding so maybe I’m misquoting the article but it definitely said there is a risk of snowing.
I’d be happy to know that this is more of a theoretical risk that happens in reality and I don’t need to be as concerned as I was reading that!
cheers
Ian
 
setsailsoon said:
Ian,

You'll be able to reduce the TA with a couple of pH cycles using MA and I wouldn't let that stand in the way of the piping work or adding the salt in prep for starting the SWG.

Chris
Click to expand...
I need to actually source a SWG first. Being in England the industry is tiny compared to the US / Aus / anywhere with sunshine. I’m limited to sourcing on line and the most common brand I can find is a Zodiac EI2 - I did a post asking for comments on the brand but no-one commented on it but given its more or less all I can find out there I’ll go with it. Zodiac are owned by Fluidra which is a $1bn Spanish company who also own Jandy so hopefully it’s OK. Seems very easy to fit.
 
Let’s begin with the cell is not going to explode due to high TA. Some cells seem to accumulate scale more then others. There are different techniques manufacturers use to deal with the problem. Some work better then others. So it depends on the cell you get.

Some cells don’t accumulate the scale on the plates but shed it through the polarity reversal and it shows as snow flakes coming out of the return when generating.

So the article gives you optimal water chemistry for the SWG. Higher TA may work with snow flakes or you may need to clean the scale off the plates occasionally. Do the best you can in reducing the TA but don’t let it turn you away from getting a SWG.
 
Lot of folks here like the RJ series, I have the Edge40..Both will mount vertically also
In your environment might also look at the SJ-40, Discountsaltpool has all models where you can upgrade to the next size for a $1 so if you want a Rj-30 buy the Rj-20 and upgrade
The SJ series is made to mount vertically so might look at it also.
 
I found a link to the Zodiac EI2 in an Australian Zodiac site. Maybe our members from down under have experience with it although they may have left until their winter is over.

I would expect Zodiac products to be ok and not junk.
 
ajw22 said:
Let’s begin with the cell is not going to explode due to high TA. Some cells seem to accumulate scale more then others. There are different techniques manufacturers use to deal with the problem. Some work better then others. So it depends on the cell you get.

Some cells don’t accumulate the scale on the plates but shed it through the polarity reversal and it shows as snow flakes coming out of the return when generating.

So the article gives you optimal water chemistry for the SWG. Higher TA may work with snow flakes or you may need to clean the scale off the plates occasionally. Do the best you can in reducing the TA but don’t let it turn you away from getting a SWG.
Click to expand...
I found the article which was called " TA further reading" where it says "
Why Should TA be Lowered with a SWG?
Usually a TA on the high end is fine if the pH is stable. However TA does need to be adjusted down with an SWG. The problem is, INSIDE the cell, the CSI is very different than in bulk pool water.[3]
With high TA and aeration from the bubbles the SWG creates, you'll get faster pH rise inside the cell and so there's more potential for scaling. With current reversal, the cell tends to stay clean but you'll get more snowflakes out of the returns. Calcium hardness is only one part of the equation.
If the SWG cell pH rises much above 10 (and it can easily do that) and if there is sufficient levels of carbonate ions available (CO3--), then you will get calcium carbonate precipitation. The higher the TA and pH, the more carbonate anions are available."
Basically what you said! ( maybe you wrote it !) Anyway, as you say, I'll give the fountain method a go to get the TA down as best I can and then see how it goes. The zodiac model I'm looking at has polarity reversal

Thanks again for all the help. I really appreciate it!
Cheers
Ian
 
ajw22 said:
I found a link to the Zodiac EI2 in an Australian Zodiac site. Maybe our members from down under have experience with it although they may have left until their winter is over.

I would expect Zodiac products to be ok and not junk.
Click to expand...
Thanks - I was hoping for some Australian comments but forgot that its the end of their season! Good to know the product should be OK.
 
markayash said:
Lot of folks here like the RJ series, I have the Edge40..Both will mount vertically also
In your environment might also look at the SJ-40, Discountsaltpool has all models where you can upgrade to the next size for a $1 so if you want a Rj-30 buy the Rj-20 and upgrade
The SJ series is made to mount vertically so might look at it also.
Click to expand...
Thanks. I can't find any of these available in the UK except by buying from Amazon and having it shipped over from the US which I have to say hasn't been the best experience so far. Also if I get a dud I'd like to be able to return it so I'm going to go for buying from one of the online UK pool stores where I know I'll be able to source parts and make a return if I need to, accepting that I might then be limited in choice. "Just OK" is fine for me :)
 

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