Pipework to install a SWG

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Ian196499 said:
Thanks. I can't find any of these available in the UK except by buying from Amazon and having it shipped over from the US which I have to say hasn't been the best experience so far. Also if I get a dud I'd like to be able to return it so I'm going to go for buying from one of the online UK pool stores where I know I'll be able to source parts and make a return if I need to, accepting that I might then be limited in choice. "Just OK" is fine for me :)
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I was joking, they have a commercial that says stuff like " Joe is your Brain surgeon, he is OK" and then the whole " just OK" skit..AT&T cellular I believe
 
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Ian196499 said:
I found the article which was called " TA further reading" where it says "
Why Should TA be Lowered with a SWG?
Usually a TA on the high end is fine if the pH is stable. However TA does need to be adjusted down with an SWG. The problem is, INSIDE the cell, the CSI is very different than in bulk pool water.[3]
With high TA and aeration from the bubbles the SWG creates, you'll get faster pH rise inside the cell and so there's more potential for scaling. With current reversal, the cell tends to stay clean but you'll get more snowflakes out of the returns. Calcium hardness is only one part of the equation.
If the SWG cell pH rises much above 10 (and it can easily do that) and if there is sufficient levels of carbonate ions available (CO3--), then you will get calcium carbonate precipitation. The higher the TA and pH, the more carbonate anions are available."
Basically what you said! ( maybe you wrote it !) Anyway, as you say, I'll give the fountain method a go to get the TA down as best I can and then see how it goes. The zodiac model I'm looking at has polarity reversal

Thanks again for all the help. I really appreciate it!
Cheers
Ian
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When I said don't worry about TA I wasn't meaning to start it up that way. I meant you could get the piping done and start salt addition. Along the way you'd probably do a few cycles of MA addition if you're like most and do this over a weekend or two. Then before you start up you bring all the chemistry into balance. Sorry, I could have been more clear. I bet Allen was thinking the same thing. I've been running TA low for a long time but in your area the water must have a lot higher TA than mine so may take a bit to get it down.

Chris
 
So, an update on how it went.
Thanks to the advice on here my pipework mods went very well. Looked good with no leaks.
I then fitted the Zodiac ei SWG ( this model is sold in the USA as a Jandy Truclear ei).
I followed the instructions to the letter, switched it all on and....it leaked?
And not just a few drops. It was a steady stream. So I disconnected it all, double checked everything etc but no joy.
My conclusion is that the system is designed for metric pipework and whilst there is an adapter for 1.5” pipework this is not a robust fit.
Anyway after multiple discussions with the supplier I have returned it and they’ve given me a full refund.
I need to decide next steps.
 
Ian,

Sorry you had the fit problems but at least you got your money back. The more I think about this issue the more it doesn't make sense this should prevent you from getting a salt system though. I've had to deal with this issue building the water treatment facilities for large chemical plants in SE Asia. Invariably some equipment had metric fittings connecting to Imperial. I would call these folks and have a talk. They are based in Leeds and based on the info on their website they seem very familiar with this issue. Please take a photo of the markings on your pipe that designate the size and pressure class. They will need this information to help you. I have posted a photo from a company called FlexPVC in the US that has the adapter you need in a union. I would guess there is something similar with a slip joint. If you can't find the printed information on the pipe it should be embossed into the fittings. I'd also bet there's somebody on TFP that's run into this problem before. Let me ping a few. @ajw22 @Arizonarob

I hope this is helpful.

Chris

1588510162412.png
 
setsailsoon said:
Ian,

Sorry you had the fit problems but at least you got your money back. The more I think about this issue the more it doesn't make sense this should prevent you from getting a salt system though. I've had to deal with this issue building the water treatment facilities for large chemical plants in SE Asia. Invariably some equipment had metric fittings connecting to Imperial. I would call these folks and have a talk. They are based in Leeds and based on the info on their website they seem very familiar with this issue. Please take a photo of the markings on your pipe that designate the size and pressure class. They will need this information to help you. I have posted a photo from a company called FlexPVC in the US that has the adapter you need in a union. I would guess there is something similar with a slip joint. If you can't find the printed information on the pipe it should be embossed into the fittings. I'd also bet there's somebody on TFP that's run into this problem before. Let me ping a few. @ajw22 @Arizonarob

I hope this is helpful.

Chris

View attachment 136392
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Chris
Thanks for taking the time to look at that.
in the meantime I’ve explored just sourcing a decent system that people on TFP seem to recommend with DiscountSaltPools as they have confirmed that they will ship to the U.K.
initially I was Reluctant to go down this route as I’ve have problems in the past sourcing direct from the US with returns etc but given the lack of availability of a decent system on this side of the pond I’m going to go for it.
I’m looking at a RJ30 as it has the capacity I need ( typically my FC usage is 0.5 - 1 ppm / day ), will work on 220 voltage and comes with 1.5” fittings out of the box.
IMHO the zodiac system was just a poor design as it clamped onto the pipe rather than being in line and the clamping method seemed susceptible to future issues even if I got it to work in the first place.
so I’m going to give that a go.
Thanks again
Ian
 
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Ian196499 said:
IMHO the zodiac system was just a poor design as it clamped onto the pipe rather than being in line and the clamping method seemed susceptible to future issues even if I got it to work in the first place.
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Exactly! The Zodiac system is an “afterthought” set-up. Quite a few people have run into problems with that system.

Going with a good in-line system will save you time and headaches down the road. Find a good retailer here in the states that will work with shipping, and it’ll be worth waiting for the equipment.
I’m not sure if the RJ30 comes with the bypass pipe, (check into that) but if not, consider picking one up as well. :cheers:
 
Ian196499 said:
Chris
Thanks for taking the time to look at that.
in the meantime I’ve explored just sourcing a decent system that people on TFP seem to recommend with DiscountSaltPools as they have confirmed that they will ship to the U.K.
initially I was Reluctant to go down this route as I’ve have problems in the past sourcing direct from the US with returns etc but given the lack of availability of a decent system on this side of the pond I’m going to go for it.
I’m looking at a RJ30 as it has the capacity I need ( typically my FC usage is 0.5 - 1 ppm / day ), will work on 220 voltage and comes with 1.5” fittings out of the box.
IMHO the zodiac system was just a poor design as it clamped onto the pipe rather than being in line and the clamping method seemed susceptible to future issues even if I got it to work in the first place.
so I’m going to give that a go.
Thanks again
Ian
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worth the wait, I never thought about metric pvc. I remember told in the 80’s we will be on the metric system in a few years :)
 

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Arizonarob said:
Exactly! The Zodiac system is an “afterthought” set-up. Quite a few people have run into problems with that system.

Going with a good in-line system will save you time and headaches down the road. Find a good retailer here in the states that will work with shipping, and it’ll be worth waiting for the equipment.
I’m not sure if the RJ30 comes with the bypass pipe, (check into that) but if not, consider picking one up as well. :cheers:
Click to expand...
Thanks!
showing my lack of knowledge once more!
What is the bypass pipe for?
 
Ian,

Great choice. I'm surprised the Zodiac had a clamp. They're not my favorite but they do usually have fairly decent quality. I wouldn't want any clamped fittings on pressure pipe... just a problem waiting to happen. I'm very familiar with the unit you're going for. Very similar to my RJ 30+ that I installed about a year ago. I chose it for best $/lb chlorine production, warranty, and reputation here. Mine has been matching predicted production very closely with Pool Math predictions. Still at 40% power and no problem holding FC level in the TFP range, mostly on the high end. Just make real sure you have 1.5" and not 50 mm pipe. When you purchase if they have the maintenance kit on special I'd buy it. So far I've not really needed it for maintenance but the spool piece is identical to the dimensions of the cell and has the same fittings. Much easier for the install since it's much lighter. The cell is actually quite heavy.

Please do keep us posted.

Chris
 
If you haven't done much PVC work try this tip a pro gave me. Prefit the pipe using soapy water to get full penetration. It's still hard to get it to fit up but you have to do this to get a trued up and square installation with good penetration at each fitting. Then when everything is square mark the edges of each fitting with a pencil. Also mark a perpendicular line from the pipe to the fitting. Use a pencil not a magic marker since the glue will dissolve anything other than a pencil. When you glue the fittings line them up with the marks. The pipe will be perfectly square and look like a pro did it!

I hope this helps.

Chris
 
Here's a photo of my installation. My pipe is 2" but the kit comes with adapters for 1.5". If you use a horizontal loop like this you'll need to fabricate a saddle support where the temporary wood supports were in this photo. It's easy to make a PVC pipe saddle support out of scrap.

Chris
1588515482749.png
 
setsailsoon said:
Here's a photo of my installation. My pipe is 2" but the kit comes with adapters for 1.5". If you use a horizontal loop like this you'll need to fabricate a saddle support where the temporary wood supports were in this photo. It's easy to make a PVC pipe saddle support out of scrap.

Chris
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Thanks for the help Chris- will update once I have a system.
The pipework is deffo 1.5” - it’s printed on the side of the pipe.
Cheers
Ian
 
Ian,

The bypass is what I referred to as the spool piece previously. It's in the maintenance kit. I think it's more commonly called a bypass in the pool industry. Construction industry we call it a spool piece.

Chris
 
setsailsoon said:
Ian,

The bypass is what I referred to as the spool piece previously. It's in the maintenance kit. I think it's more commonly called a bypass in the pool industry. Construction industry we call it a spool piece.

Chris
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Thanks - I’m going to call them this week.
really appreciate all the advice and help.
All the best
Ian
 

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