pH sensors that don't have to be calibrated

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Hey Kato...a caution...not sure how you are planning to get a “T” in there...it’s really tough, almost impossible to make two cuts and insert only a “T” that doesn’t leak. I am sure there are other ways but when I have done this, I always include a union in the redesign...

Look at the picture in this post...in particular the PSI valve that I added in-line using a “T”. Some people don’t like these Home Depot generic unions, but I haven’t had a problem with them. As I said, I am sure there are other ways to do this that might be better, if anyone has a better idea please chime in...

Edit: I realized that in my case I had the advantage of a second union so that I could “slide in” my additional components before tightening. In your case you would need to replace that elbow as well to make a single union addition work, a bit messy. There usually is very little “give” to the pipes after cutting so squeezing in new parts has to be planned carefully, with usually only a single chance to “glue and line it up”.

Optimize Your In-Floor Cleaning Effectiveness and Efficiency

So, my re-plumbing job is finished and it went really well. I probably missed jonpcar off for his cruise, but will quickly report that the main goal of my re-plumb was achieved. That is, the pressure loss from filter to Caretaker manifold was drastically reduced. I am really happy about that...
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Here’s an example of the union.

www.homedepot.com

Homewerks Worldwide 2 in. PVC Slip Joint x Slip Joint Union-511-14-2-2H - The Home Depot

The Homewerks Worldwide Slip x Slip Union is used to join lengths of pipe together. Can be used with either Sch. 40 or Sch. 80. It connects cold water pipes with solvent-weld connections. Rated for 150
www.homedepot.com
 
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So now I am totally freaked out and terrified to try to insert the T into that section of straight pipe from my skimmer line. The T is 4" long and I would have to cut out a 2" section to leave and inch on either side to glue in the T. Now I am concerned I will not be able to bend the two pipes back far enough to insert the T especially with glue and get it all done in time.
 
Katodude said:
So now I am totally freaked out and terrified to try to insert the T into that section of straight pipe from my skimmer line. The T is 4" long and I would have to cut out a 2" section to leave and inch on either side to glue in the T. Now I am concerned I will not be able to bend the two pipes back far enough to insert the T especially with glue and get it all done in time.
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Kato...sorry, but personally I think it will be really hard to spread those pipes two inches to get a Tee in...this is probably how I would do it: I would put two unions in...one below the elbow (replace the elbow) and one on the straight section where you are inserting your Tee. The piece you would create would include the new Tee, a replacement for the existing elbow, and the two halves of the two unions which could match up perfectly to the other halves of the unions mounted on your cuts of the existing pipes.

You could just use a glue sleeve (instead of a union) on the piece below the elbow but two unions gives the option to replace your entire mechanism (would require buying a replacement union).
 
Katodude said:
So now I am totally freaked out and terrified to try to insert the T into that section of straight pipe from my skimmer line. The T is 4" long and I would have to cut out a 2" section to leave and inch on either side to glue in the T. Now I am concerned I will not be able to bend the two pipes back far enough to insert the T especially with glue and get it all done in time.
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Kato...what did you decide to do? How is it looking?
 
Hey Jon,

So I am in total panic mode, so I have done nothing. My electrician is supposed to come in the next couple of weeks to install a generator bypass in the house and he is pretty good with PVC so i am going to get him to do it while he is here. I am going to buy the unions you suggested and a bunch of spare parts so whatever we have to do I will have to parts.

Will report back the moment I have it done.
 
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Katodude said:
Next week. I just bought all the parts at Home Depot and have way to many pieces. The electrician is coming next week and he will help with the plumping. Will report back soon.
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Not sure if I missed it, but are you planning to install it in the main line or a bypass line where you can control the flow rate? I've read that a high flow rate causes the pH sensor to read inaccurately.
For e.g. look at this very recent thread here.

pH calibration with peristaltic pump and ph sensor issue.

Hello guys. Just giving a little heads up to everybody who use an automated pH calibration system. Mine is an astral pool Ph Basic 5l/h. It has a pH sensor after the main pump and filter and a muriatic acid 32% inlet before the swg cell .(swg cell is the last in line on my main feed line to the...
www.troublefreepool.com www.troublefreepool.com
 
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Ari, I missed that thread but you are right...I have seen mention of this problem before, particularly with ORP.

Kato, I really like the separate manifold idea like @segalion proposed. You just have to decide how to “feed/exit” the manifold. The manifold can be LOW in the system (no worries about water always on the probes) and the flow through it can be controlled with an inline valve (minimize the flow, just slowly replenish) which avoids this issue as pointed out by Ari’s thread.

I don’t think bscuderi has had success with his implementation of ph/ORP, but I like a couple of the ideas he used in setting up his manifold. See this post for some pictures:

community.smartthings.com

Automated Pool Controller [NEEDS UPDATING: ALL GROOVY CODE IS OBSOLETE]

Just a teaser update since I have been quiet about my progress. I’ll do a more detailed post once everything is up and running as I’m still waiting on a couple of parts from amazon to finish completely. I built and deployed version 3 of my pool temp level sensor using the milone etape. Its...
community.smartthings.com community.smartthings.com

In particular I like: (1) drawing flow into the manifold using the pool pump suction side connection (2) valves to control flow in/out AND to isolate the manifold to service the probes

A few posts later he ended up mounting that manifold up high, which I think is probably not ideal.
 
I bought the industrial pH probe which should be able to handle the high water flow. I just cant figure out how to plumb in a bypass for now. I am just going to put it in line and see what happens.
 

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Well here goes. The electrician finally came over, and I now have a generator bypass (phew just in time for hurricane season). We also wired my new pump directly to the breaker so I dont need relay to turn it on and off anymore since I can control it via RS-485.

And finally the T has been plumped in. Waiting for the glue to dry and they will put in the pH probe and see what happens.

@cmc0619 will PM you to work on the wiring to the pi and the NodeRed interface.
 
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So just an update. Had a suction side leak at the union that I put in. A little lube on the o-ring seemed to have fixed it and we are up and running.

Pool is measuring 7.6 which matches up with the drop test. So far so good.
 

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TADA!!!!

Its finally done. What an ordeal. After pushing the wrong button on the controller and inadvertently re calibrating the probe to the wrong levels. I did a 3 point calibration this morning.

Last night I finished the wiring into my controller that took a 4-20ma converter and wired it into an ADC in the MegaIO card on my Rpi. A bunch of back and forth to calibrate the converter (who’s instructions were wrong) and its installed. Did a quick flow in NodeRed and now I have a pH gauge on my phone/iPad/computer.

Going to write some flows later this today or this weekend to email me when my pH hits 8 so I get a nice warning. Although I cant see that happening as I am obsessed at looking at my pH levels constantly.

Need to figure out some better Alexa integration so that I can ask Alexa to tell me my pH and temperature.

Might now consider auto dosing acid based on the pH reading. Also thinking about integrating a pressure sensor since that should be fairly easy now.
 

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Katodude said:
Last night I finished the wiring into my controller that took a 4-20ma converter and wired it into an ADC in the MegaIO card on my Rpi. A bunch of back and forth to calibrate the converter (who’s instructions were wrong) and its installed. Did a quick flow in NodeRed and now I have a pH gauge on my phone/iPad/computer.
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Congrats, great progress!

Any detail you could give on the 4-20ma converter you used and the work it took to get it working would be very helpful. I'm in the process of doing this myself, but just in the starting phase. Thanks..
 
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BubbaBasco said:
Congrats, great progress!

Any detail you could give on the 4-20ma converter you used and the work it took to get it working would be very helpful. I'm in the process of doing this myself, but just in the starting phase. Thanks..
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We found a device for $2. It took 6 weeks to get here, but it was $2. All the other options we found were $40 minimum.

Here's the link: 4-20ma to voltage converter
 
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Yep, so those on Amazon, 2 for $8 is awesome. My motto is have extra everything.

BTW. I also ordered a signal generator for $30 on Amazon too. Makes troubleshooting much easier.
 

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