Pentair SWG Question

[Philo]

I ran into an IC 60 today with the following situation:

SALT LEVEL.....Solid Green
STATUS....... No Lights
FLOW......Solid Green
SANITATION OUTPUT.......All Lights Flashing Green

The cell is clean and when I push and hold the MORE button, no lights come on, then back to all flashing green.

Any thoughts?

Thanks!

 

[mknauss]

When they are flashing, the cell is set for 2-10%. If pushing the More button does not take you to the 20-100% mode (lights on solid) then the cell is most likely bad.

What age is the cell?

 

[JamesW]

5 LEDs blinking means the production is set to 10 %. This means that it produces chlorine for 27 seconds of each 5 minute period. During the 27 seconds, the Cell light should be on. Then, the Cell light will be off for 4 minutes and 33 seconds while not producing.

To change the percentage, you press and release the More or Less button.

If you press and hold the More button, that launches the system status mode:

1. Press and hold the MORE button for three (3) seconds until the lights scroll across the unit.

2. One (1) of the five (5) Sanitizer Output LED indicators (20%, 40%, 60%, 80% and 100%) will be lit indicating the hours of usage. The Output LEDs are as follows:

• 2000 hours (20% LED on)

• 4000 hours (40% LED on)

• 6000 hours (60% LED on)

• 8000 hours (80% LED on)

• 10,000 hours (100% LED on)

 

[Philo]

Thanks. As noted, the blinking lights went off as we increased the percentage.

This morning, the Low Salt light was solid red. The Taylor Salt Test says 3400. (I brought my IC60 over to test and the Low Salt went to solid green).

When we pressed and held the MORE button, all the Sanitizer Out Put % lights went out and none came back on for a few moments, then they went on to the set % and stayed on. It seems like the 20% should have come on at least with the MORE test?

 

[mknauss]

The Low Salt issue is typically due to a failed flow switch, but with your other issue, who knows.

Just to clarify, when the output lights were flashing, you pushed the More button (did not hold it down), and the lights went out, then one came on steady? If that happened, then it was working as designed.

 

[JamesW]

Pressing and holding the “More” button launches the System Status Mode. When the lights finish scrolling, the percent lights indicate hours of usage in 1,000s. For example, if the 40% light lights, that indicates 4,000 hours.

Version 3.1 on adds the ability to determine system temperature. Pressing the “More” button after the display shows 1,000s of hours of usage, will show temperature as follows:

Lights…………….....………Temperature
No LEDs………….…..………Below 30F
40%......................................36 to 45F
40% and 60%...................46 to 55F
60%......................................56 to 65F
60% and 80%..................66 to 75F
80%....................................76 to 85F
80 and 100%..................86 to 95F
100%.................................96 to 99F
100% blinking…..…..….over 99F
All LEDs blinking……...Sensor bad

Press and hold the More button until the lights scroll and note which % light lights up. Then, immediately press the More button again and see which % lights light up.

Is the Cell light solid green?

If you have automation, you should be able to get a salinity reading from the automation. What does that show?

If the first part of the System Status Mode test does not light up any lights, that might mean that the cell has less than 2,000 hours.

What is the water temperature?

What is the manufacturing date as shown on the label on the back of the cell?

 

[Philo]

Thanks you guys. I replaced the flow switch (I had an extra, luckily) and everything seems great!