Pentair Intellichlor IC40 pops fuse!

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Bigdaddyo811

Member
Apr 2, 2020
15
San Antonio, TX
Moved from here.
I am having the same issue.

There is 31V across the two wires - Transformer works -check
I replaced the PCB board - breaker still tripping. Ugh.

IS there a chance the circuit breaker is bad or now I am at the point where the only solution is to replace the cell itself?

Thanks
 
I have an IC 40 that stopped working.

Circuit breaker pops.
I checked the voltage across the transformer RED wire and the Wire to the circuit breaker and get 31V - I think that means transformer is not bad.
I replaced the PCB board (per other posts here) - circuit breaker still popping - UGH.

1. Does that mean my salt cell is bad and I have to replace it?
2. Is my only option to replace it with an IC 40? I am handy enough to probably replace it for a straight swap or if there are good instructions to replace the cell inside, but probably not handy enough to have to re-do plumbing.

If IC40 only - anywhere I can get one cheaper than ordering from my pool company
If a non IC40 is an option, can someone make a recommendation?

Thanks for all the help everyone provides here.

anks
 
Fill out your signature with your pool, pool equipment (manufacturers and model numbers) and test kit.
This will beter help us to help you.
 
So is the assumption that the IC40 has gone bad from the above? Is there any way to test that hypothesis from above info?

I read somewhere you could just replace the salt cell part with an OEM (~$300?). Is that untrue and you must buy a completely new one?

Thanks
 
811,

At five years old you are inside the average cell failure zone.. Most cells last 5 to 7 years.

Did the cell have a flashing "Cell" light, even though the cell was clean, before it started popping the breaker?

There is no troubleshooting you can do to the cell itself.

Thanks,

Jim R.
 

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Jimrahbe said:
811,

At five years old you are inside the average cell failure zone.. Most cells last 5 to 7 years.

Did the cell have a flashing "Cell" light, even though the cell was clean, before it started popping the breaker?

There is no troubleshooting you can do to the cell itself.

Thanks,

Jim R.
Click to expand...
I dont know about the flashing cell light unfortunately.

Is the only option to buy a new IC-40? Can you replace the "guts" of a cell with OEM parts that are cheaper or just the whole thing? is the IC-40 pentair the only choice if you want it to integrate into the ET?

Thanks
 
811,

I have no experience with off brand cells, so I don't really have any answers.

The EasyTouch can turn any cell on and off.. The only thing you would lose is the salt reading and the ability to change the cell's output with the automation.

Thanks,

Jim R.
 
Bigdaddyo811 said:
So is the assumption that the IC40 has gone bad from the above? Is there any way to test that hypothesis from above info?

I read somewhere you could just replace the salt cell part with an OEM (~$300?). Is that untrue and you must buy a completely new one?

Thanks
Click to expand...
The one I am using is 7 years old, I bought it from Amazon for about $500. But nowadays I never heard you can you get it for $300. If you can, please let me know.
 
Yang,

You almost always get what you pay for. :mrgreen:

If you bought a real IC40 for $950 (current price) and it lasted for 7 years that would be $136 bucks a year for all the chlorine your pool needs. Still not a bad deal in my mind.

Pretend this is in Latin.. "Let the buyer beware."

Thanks,

Jim R.
 
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