Pentair IC 20 - Flow light/inspect cell light

Giannmi1

Bronze Supporter
May 24, 2022
4
07110
Hi - Hoping for some help. This is a great forum and learned a lot already. My Pentair Intellichlor IC20 had the red flow light on despite there being plenty of flow after the pool was opened and everything cleaned up. Using this forum, I replaced the flow switch which set the flow light back to green but now the inspect cell light is flashing green and the salt indicator lights are not on at all.

When I first start the unit, I am not getting the "railroad crossing" lights and the low salt red light is on. After 10 mins or so that light goes off the the inspect cell light goes from green to flashing green. The cell life indicator still shows only 40% of cell life used.

I have exhausted all threads and the soonest a tech can come out is over a month. Any help would be appreciated.

Mike
 
Mike,

How old is the cell? The "cell life indicator" has little value in determining if the cell is bad or not.

The cell could be bad, but since you just replaced the Flow Switch, it could just be the wire connections to the new flow switch are bad.

The wires that come from the cell can sometimes get corroded. So you need to inspect them to make sure they are making good contact.

The flow switch has two parts.. The Red and Black wires go to the actual flow switch.. the White and Green wires go to an temp sensor called a thermistor.

As a test, you can disconnect the White and Green wires and see if the "Railroad" lights come back. Just to make sure you understand... you will only get the railroad light when the cell first starts up after the power has been off, or every 12 hours after that.

Sorry to say, most of the time, when the cell light is flashing, but the cell is clean, the cell is bad.

I don't understand why the output % lights would be off??? Maybe some wiring issue with the flow switch, but on the surface that makes no sense.

But, if the cell is bad, you can't make it any worse by trying things.

Thanks,

Jim R.
 
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Mike,

How old is the cell? The "cell life indicator" has little value in determining if the cell is bad or not.

The cell could be bad, but since you just replaced the Flow Switch, it could just be the wire connections to the new flow switch are bad.

The wires that come from the cell can sometimes get corroded. So you need to inspect them to make sure they are making good contact.

The flow switch has two parts.. The Red and Black wires go to the actual flow switch.. the White and Green wires go to an temp sensor called a thermistor.

As a test, you can disconnect the White and Green wires and see if the "Railroad" lights come back. Just to make sure you understand... you will only get the railroad light when the cell first starts up after the power has been off, or every 12 hours after that.

Sorry to say, most of the time, when the cell light is flashing, but the cell is clean, the cell is bad.

I don't understand why the output % lights would be off??? Maybe some wiring issue with the flow switch, but on the surface that makes no sense.

But, if the cell is bad, you can't make it any worse by trying things.

Thanks,

Jim R.
Thank you Jim for the reply. The cell is from 2015 but it is a small pool (approx 8500 gallons) and has not been overworked. That said, is 6 years what you can expect to get out of them? I am scrambling trying to find a technician to come to my house to look at it but if it is nearly certain that the cell has expired, I would rather just order a new one and save the service visit fee. I did not realize the cell life indicator is not something you can rely on. Again, appreciate your prompt reply. I will enthusiastically become a member of this fine website/resource.
 
Mike,

Most cells last 5 to 7 years on average.. Think of them like the gas tank on your car, only you can't fill them up. Once they are out of "gas" then you need to buy a new tank.

Thanks,

Jim R.
 
Thank you. If I order a new IC20 unit, can I just plug that in into the existing power center?
Sorry one more question, is this a suitable/workable alternative to the OEM Pentair IC20? Anyone have any experience with it?

 
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