Pentair Dynamo Pump Motor

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C

cmiller73

Well-known member
May 1, 2012
262
Houma, LA
Pool Size
12500
Surface
Plaster
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
SWG Type
Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
My original motor died. Upon looking around I found a
Century A.O. Smith - 48Y 1-1/2HP Single Speed Pool and Spa Pump Motor, 16.0/8.0A, 115/230V at an online retailer and bought it.

When I opened up the box, I noticed it had a few extra wires, no switch and start-up capacitor. Looked great and installed fluid in on and put it back in place. Everything was fine, it ran great. UNTIL, I went to backwash, waste or rinse.
The motor then started making a clicking sound, then stopped. Wait a while, put back on filter and it runs great. Back to backwash etc, it clicks and stops again.
Taking off the cover, I was watching the "V" shaped thing jump and click. Then watched it stop. What is causing that?
What is the "V" shaped thing?(pic of dead motor, but same configuration as new motor)
I have come to the conclusion that when there is no pressure on the motor that is when the clicking happens. Is that because of the capacitor? There is no switch on this motor like there was on my dead motor. My dead motor didn't have a capacitor.

Old motor specs.
1600630025469.png
1600630037569.png

New motor specs.
1600630055883.png

"V" shaped thingy.
1600629997144.png
 
That's your centrifugal switch opening and closing. The old motor was 115 volts only. The new motor can be 115 or 230 volts and it comes wired for 230 volts. I suspect that you have 115 volts going to the motor while it's set to 230. What is the supply voltage and what is the motor set to?
 
JamesW said:
That's your centrifugal switch opening and closing. The old motor was 115 volts only. The new motor can be 115 or 230 volts and it comes wired for 230 volts. I suspect that you have 115 volts going to the motor while it's set to 230. What is the supply voltage and what is the motor set to?
Click to expand...
I have been told that. But why would it run fine when the filter valve is set on filter/recirculate, but when I put it on waste/rinse/backwash, it starts acting stupid?
I have 115v going to it. Nothing on the feed side changed. Just disconnected the white and black wires out the intermatic. Removed the wires from the old motor and connected them back on the same connections in the new motor. 1 & 6 are low voltage. Nothing electrically is different from what I can tell.
You say it came wired for 230? Is that the white/black wire that is in the video? That is the only wire that was connected before I connected my wires. Which seems to be connected to the #3 spade and is the black tr. Should that go to the #5 spade?



1600779360267.png
 
If a motor can be wired 115 or 230, it will always come set to 230.

The wiring diagram shows how to set it for 115 volts.

The white with black trace (black tr) goes to terminal 5 for low voltage and the motor black goes to terminal 6 for low voltage.
 
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cmiller73 said:
But why would it run fine when the filter valve is set on filter/recirculate, but when I put it on waste/rin
Click to expand...
When there is less resistance to water flow, the pump will move more water in gallons per minute. This increases the amount of power required and the undervoltage is more evident.

The motor rotation is not fast enough to keep the centrifugal switch weights fully extended and the start windings and capacitor are reengaged.
 
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JamesW said:
When there is less resistance to water flow, the pump will move more water in gallons per minute. This increases the amount of power required and the undervoltage is more evident.

The motor rotation is not fast enough to keep the centrifugal switch weights fully extended and the start windings and capacitor are reengaged.
Click to expand...
Thanks for that. Makes 100% sense.
I guess I never noticed it was pre-wired for 230v. I just direct swapped it and didn't think because I was only sending 115v to it. I hope it didn't mess it up.
Chalk it up to making sure motor side wires are right.
Thanks for the help.
 
JamesW said:
If a motor can be wired 115 or 230, it will always come set to 230.

The wiring diagram shows how to set it for 115 volts.

The white with black trace (black tr) goes to terminal 5 for low voltage and the motor black goes to terminal 6 for low voltage.
Click to expand...
Line? Does it matter which color? White or black? Does non-reversable mean that it doesn't matter how the hot and neutral are attached, it will still run the same way?
 

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