Pentair Actuator gets stuck when rotating

CFlaPool

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Apr 21, 2021
166
Satellite Beach, Florida
Pool Size
21000
Surface
Plaster
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
SWG Type
Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
I searched here but what I got did not help me. I have a 4 year old Pentair valve actuator (outflow spa vs Returns) that is having trouble turning. It gets to around 5-10 degrees the motor is on but the valve makes clicking sound. I applied a little turning pressure to the handle and then got it to go until it gets around 90 degrees. Again, with a little encouragement I can get it to go to 170 degrees, where it stops and clicks again. It is consistent on where it stops.

Just so you know I've searched the site:
I tried the actuator section here, and found that the manual override (switch off) that works apparently on Jandy (loosen handle locking knob full full turns and push down) does not work on Pentair. Pushing down does not do anything; it won't push down at all. There are threads about lubrication, but no pictures on exactly where plumbers grease should be applied. Do I have to take the actuator completely off to apply the lube lubrication? I only took off top cover just now.

Help! You guys have always been so helpful here to me, and I need you again.

Greg
 
Did you remove the actuator cover and look at the condition of the motor and gears?

MoS2 lubricant goes on the steel gears.


1731710703162.png
 
I took off the cover, and it all looks ok. I don't see anything that is stopping the cam from turning. Where exactly are the steel gears you speak of. I assume you don't mean the cams. Do I have to take the entire unit apart?
 
I took off the cover, and it all looks ok. I don't see anything that is stopping the cam from turning. Where exactly are the steel gears you speak of. I assume you don't mean the cams. Do I have to take the entire unit apart?
The gears are at the bottom of the stem...

1731711831717.png
 
Thanks. That's what I thought from the diagram, but wanted to be sure. So does that mean I have to dissemble most of it to get at them? Take out the motor and everything else? I don't think those gears are accessible after only taking the top off the actuator.
 
Thanks. That's what I thought from the diagram, but wanted to be sure. So does that mean I have to dissemble most of it to get at them? Take out the motor and everything else? I don't think those gears are accessible after only taking the top off the actuator.
Yup.
 
Ugh. To me, it looks like 6 screws to remove the tray with the motor and cams attached, and then the gears should be accessible. I'll follow up after I attack this tomorrowe. Thanks again! At worst, I have a reasonably new Jandy actuator on the shelf, which works and obeys EasyTouch but does not move motor when manually flipping switch. Would that be a switch issue?
 
Ugh. To me, it looks like 6 screws to remove the tray with the motor and cams attached, and then the gears should be accessible. I'll follow up after I attack this tomorrowe. Thanks again! At worst, I have a reasonably new Jandy actuator on the shelf, which works and obeys EasyTouch but does not move motor when manually flipping switch. Would that be a switch issue?
A few pieces of wire jumping the switch can figure that out.

Be careful not to short the 24V line when testing or you can blow the relay driver chip.
 
I still am not sure how to access the gears. Here is pic with cover off. With the actuator removed from the valve, it still gets stuck at same places.

IMG_5442.jpeg
 

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I found older threads here where people had the exact same problem, with it stuck at same places. But several of those got it working correctly by just taking it off and putting it back on. That hasn’t worked for me. The actuator gets stuck when taken off the valve and holding it my hand
 
Given the picture above, do I remove the two screws holding down the motor to access the gears? Will it all fall apart if I do so? I don’t want to totally break it.
 
Given the picture above, do I remove the two screws holding down the motor to access the gears?

Looks that way.

Will it all fall apart if I do so? I don’t want to totally break it.

It is already broken. You will either get it working or buy a new actuator.
 
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What are people's recommendations on brand for a valve actuator? This Pentair installed by PB four years ago is ailing, one of the two Jandy actuators I bought was not working after a few months. In that case, I think the exterior switch failed. I just hooked it up again and it does not rotate at all regardless of switch position (thus I think the toggle switch is dead and set to off internally). Jandy does not warrant items not installed by pool professionals so that was $200 up in smoke.I see Tork and intermatic which are less pricey, but usually you get what you pay for. I have an intelli-valve forour heater bypass. Are those very reliable?
 
I would not get an IntelliValve.

Tork or Intermatic work fine and are compatible. Spare parts may not be available for repair so consider them disposable when they fail.

 
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Thanks, Just ordered a Tork from Amazon. $90+
Installed and working fine. I don’t like that the cable is not removable. I had to pull out the old one amidst a dozen zip ties in the panel and outside, and then thread the new one. Also, it is very difficult to get the board connector out of the panel thru the access hole it used. I had to cut the connector off to get it all removed. I had to do same thing when replacing the water temperature sensor.

Of course, I now figure some one on here will say all that rewiring was not necessary.
 
The good news is you do not often replace the actuator.
 

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