Hello, i may have a transformer (pn 137155) bad. Pump will not turn on,, there is power to the pump. There is 120v out the side of the transformer stamped 24v. Is this transformer not stepping down and thus will not turn on?
Pentair 140 not turning on
- Thread starter maspauto
- Start date
- May 3, 2014
- 62,696
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
Welcome to the forum.
The pump is plugged into this transformer? What is this pump for? Is this a pool, spa, etc?
The pump is plugged into this transformer? What is this pump for? Is this a pool, spa, etc?
M,
I suspect you have a test issue of some kind. It is unlikely that the transformer is bad. Could be of course, but it would not be my first thought.
Tell us what equipment you have. If you don't know for sure, show us some pics.
Tell us what you are calling "Pentair 140"??
What kind of automation system do you have?
What kind of pump do you have?
Do you have a saltwater pool?
Thanks,
Jim R.
I suspect you have a test issue of some kind. It is unlikely that the transformer is bad. Could be of course, but it would not be my first thought.
Tell us what equipment you have. If you don't know for sure, show us some pics.
Tell us what you are calling "Pentair 140"??
What kind of automation system do you have?
What kind of pump do you have?
Do you have a saltwater pool?
Thanks,
Jim R.
Hello Jim, Marty thank you for replying...Heat pump for a pool. The automation is by physical dial that runs the pump (no wireless/apps). The heat pump is separate from the circulating pump. I'm not sure what "saltwater" pool means. There is a charged cell that maintains chlorine levels so is that a yes?
The pentair troubleshooting guide says transformer may be bad. Is there a way to test it?
The pentair troubleshooting guide says transformer may be bad. Is there a way to test it?
Attachments
Last edited:
M,
Ok, that makes a lot more sense, thanks for the update.
If you have a voltmeter, you need to test the output voltage which should be 24 Volt AC. In your pic, the high voltage come in the top pins and the output is at the bottom two pins.
You should measure about 24 volts AC between the two pins. It may be 30 volts are so. It should not measure 120 Volts AC and if it does, it should have blown a fuse, or destroyed whatever circuit it was connected to.
Keep in mind this is AC voltage and not DC. Do not measure to ground. Just measure between the two bottom pins.
It looks like the transformer in the pic requires a 240-volt AC input voltage. Test between the pin marked Com and the one marked 240 and make sure you have about 240 Volts AC,
Please let us know what you find,
Thanks,
Jim R.
Ok, that makes a lot more sense, thanks for the update.
If you have a voltmeter, you need to test the output voltage which should be 24 Volt AC. In your pic, the high voltage come in the top pins and the output is at the bottom two pins.
You should measure about 24 volts AC between the two pins. It may be 30 volts are so. It should not measure 120 Volts AC and if it does, it should have blown a fuse, or destroyed whatever circuit it was connected to.
Keep in mind this is AC voltage and not DC. Do not measure to ground. Just measure between the two bottom pins.
It looks like the transformer in the pic requires a 240-volt AC input voltage. Test between the pin marked Com and the one marked 240 and make sure you have about 240 Volts AC,
Please let us know what you find,
Thanks,
Jim R.
Jim,
I've got 240 in and 27 out of the transformer. Transformer is serviceable then correct?
I've got 240 in and 27 out of the transformer. Transformer is serviceable then correct?
Yep..
Not sure about your specific heater, but most use the 24 VAC as a control voltage. If you have an automation system, they will often run that voltage through the automation to turn the heater on and off. If the automation is not calling for heat, it won't be sent back to the heater to turn it on.
Also, most times there is a fuse in the 24 VAC line that often gets popped, so while the voltage out of the transformer is good, with an open fuse, it has no where to go.
Thanks,
Jim R.
Not sure about your specific heater, but most use the 24 VAC as a control voltage. If you have an automation system, they will often run that voltage through the automation to turn the heater on and off. If the automation is not calling for heat, it won't be sent back to the heater to turn it on.
Also, most times there is a fuse in the 24 VAC line that often gets popped, so while the voltage out of the transformer is good, with an open fuse, it has no where to go.
Thanks,
Jim R.
- Jul 21, 2013
- 65,227
- Pool Size
- 35000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
You are running down the wrong rabbit hole. An external 24V AC transformer is not used by the UltraTemp as a control voltage.
Show us a pic of the dial you use to control the Heat Pump. The transformer may energize a contactor to turn on the HP.
More likely your problem is in the HP.
www.troublefreepool.com
Show us a pic of the dial you use to control the Heat Pump. The transformer may energize a contactor to turn on the HP.
More likely your problem is in the HP.
Pentair UltraTemp Heat Pump - Further Reading
www.troublefreepool.com
M,
To follow up on Allen's post. If the transformer you are working with is NOT part of the heat pump, then we do not fully understand what you are doing.
If the transformer is part of your 140 heat pump, then we are on the same page.
Your heat pump can be controlled by either using the heater relay inside the automation or by an RS-485 cable.
At this point I am not even certain that you have an automation system.
Tell us more...
Thanks,
Jim R.
To follow up on Allen's post. If the transformer you are working with is NOT part of the heat pump, then we do not fully understand what you are doing.
If the transformer is part of your 140 heat pump, then we are on the same page.
Your heat pump can be controlled by either using the heater relay inside the automation or by an RS-485 cable.
At this point I am not even certain that you have an automation system.
Tell us more...
Thanks,
Jim R.
Gents, I misquoted earlier- the dial is not connected to the heat pump, the dial runs the pool pump. I believe the heat pump operates using a pressure switch sensing the water flowing and allowing the heat pump to heat the water.. Prior to this issue, the heat pump panel would light up and I could make adjustments when the pool was not circulatinfg , then the heat pump would operate as intended and heat during flow and then "standby" when pool circulation stopped, ready to heat again once circulation started.
Attachments
- Jul 21, 2013
- 65,227
- Pool Size
- 35000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
So where is this transformer located that you were testing?
If the HP is not lighting up you need to start tracing the voltage from the Circuit Breaker for the HP. Then check the service disconnect by the HP. Then the voltage at the transformer and contactor in the HP.
We have seen two instances of burnt wires that connect to the contactors in Pentair UltraTemp Heat Pumps. The HP fan will run but the compressor does not run to generate heat.
If the HP is not lighting up you need to start tracing the voltage from the Circuit Breaker for the HP. Then check the service disconnect by the HP. Then the voltage at the transformer and contactor in the HP.
We have seen two instances of burnt wires that connect to the contactors in Pentair UltraTemp Heat Pumps. The HP fan will run but the compressor does not run to generate heat.
- Jul 21, 2013
- 65,227
- Pool Size
- 35000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
- Jul 21, 2013
- 65,227
- Pool Size
- 35000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
The manual says "
Replace fuse. Call dealer or factory for advice
before attempting to replace parts."
Find the fuse and check it.
Call Pentair Technical Support
Sanford, North Carolina (8 A.M. to 4:30 P.M. ET)
Phone: (919) 566-8000
Fax: (919) 566-8920
Moorpark, California (8 A.M. to 4:30 P.M. PT)
Phone: (805) 553-5000 (Ext. 5591)
Fax: (805) 553-5515
Check if you have the 27V on the J7 connector...
Replace fuse. Call dealer or factory for advice
before attempting to replace parts."
Find the fuse and check it.
Call Pentair Technical Support
Sanford, North Carolina (8 A.M. to 4:30 P.M. ET)
Phone: (919) 566-8000
Fax: (919) 566-8920
Moorpark, California (8 A.M. to 4:30 P.M. PT)
Phone: (805) 553-5000 (Ext. 5591)
Fax: (805) 553-5515
Check if you have the 27V on the J7 connector...
Yes there is 27V at J7 - What fuse specifically? I do not see one on paper or anywhere inside. If you are talking about the fuse that controls power to the HP then yes that was checked first. There is 240V to the unit. Are you aware of a fuse somewhere in the HP? I will call tech support, thx.
- Jul 21, 2013
- 65,227
- Pool Size
- 35000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
M,
Calling Pentair makes sense..
In the meantime, did you just wake up and find the heater no longer working, or where you working on something else, and now the heater won't work?
If you have 27 volts AC at J7 then it sounds like the control board is bad, but I'd sure call Pentair and see what they say before replacing it.
If the plan is to buy a new control card, I would first take the old one out and make sure none of the connections are corroded. It may "magically" start to work when you put it back together.
Thanks,
Jim R.
Calling Pentair makes sense..
In the meantime, did you just wake up and find the heater no longer working, or where you working on something else, and now the heater won't work?
If you have 27 volts AC at J7 then it sounds like the control board is bad, but I'd sure call Pentair and see what they say before replacing it.
If the plan is to buy a new control card, I would first take the old one out and make sure none of the connections are corroded. It may "magically" start to work when you put it back together.
Thanks,
Jim R.
Jim, no other work was in process or had been completed, I just went out to turn it on and it wouldn't. There is no corrosion present, the unit has been on site for just over two years (previous owner install) all connections are clean. I unplugged/re-plugged the board, no change. I'll keep you posted. Thank you.
