Parallel RJ60+

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Ok sounds good, I'll double check before doing anything crazy haha

Safest bet would be to just install new unions at all of the components and plumb into the existing underground plumbing.

Will have to change the plumbing around the heater though to include a heater bypass and the new SWG. Thanks!
 
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Oh forgot to ask. What should I do with the inlet and outlet pipes of the prior Polaris booster pump? Cap them or connect the 2 together?
 
Just make it an additional return to the pool.
You can always plug it. However, plugging it creates a space for bacteria to grow unless you can force air through it and plug the pool side of the vacuum connection. I had a equalizer line that was covered by a liner. Other end was plugged in the skimmer..but they left water in the line. Bacteria started growing and started to bulge the liner from the gas that was created. Vacuumed out all the water from the line and re-plugged.
There is no right or wrong - just need to be aware.
 
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loamyroots said:
Oh forgot to ask. What should I do with the inlet and outlet pipes of the prior Polaris booster pump? Cap them or connect the 2 together?
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The answer partly depends if that pump is feeding the heater.

Cap the inlet.

You can use the outlet as another return but it is not near where your other returns are.

You have to understand how your returns connect to your equipment pad.
 
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Ok yeah I'd rather not create a potential space for bacteria or algae to grow.

So if I plug the Polaris inlet and then split the output of my 2nd sand filter to have it feed both the existing underground plumbing and the Polaris outlet, that would mimic how it was being run before (water was just flowing through the Polaris without it being turned on). Am I understanding that correctly?
 
loamyroots said:
So if I plug the Polaris inlet and then split the output of my 2nd sand filter to have it feed both the existing underground plumbing and the Polaris outlet, that would mimic how it was being run before (water was just flowing through the Polaris without it being turned on). Am I understanding that correctly?
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Not really.

I think you will find the return flow will be less and the flow through the Old Polaris line will be more.

Put a diverter valve on the old Polaris line so you can balance the flow
 
Oh interesting, why would the flow be more through the old Polaris line? As far as I'm aware, the booster pump was not functioning and not plugged in. It was just sitting there and the prior homeowners and pool company were not using it. Is there a difference in the line or plumbing after the Polaris?
 
loamyroots said:
Oh interesting, why would the flow be more through the old Polaris line? As far as I was aware, the booster pump was not functioning and not plugged in. It was just sitting there and the prior homeowners and pool company were not using it. Is there a difference in the line or plumbing after the Polaris?
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The booster pump was creating a lot of resistance limiting the flow.

With a unrestricted pipe 50% of the pump flow will go out the Polaris line then the remaining flow will be divided between three returns.
 
Ah ok so now the Polaris line would have less resistance and take away flow from the other 3 returns, got it. So install a diverter valve for the Polaris in order to maintain appropriate flow to the other 3 returns. Thank you!!!
 
Ok so this might be more nuanced and not really matter, but would you recommend that I cut the pipe before the Polaris inlet and insert a T heading towards the Polaris outlet with a diverter valve.

Or should I install a 3-way valve instead that heads towards the Polaris outlet. Would that suffice in controlling flow to the Polaris?
 

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loamyroots said:
Ok so this might be more nuanced and not really matter, but would you recommend that I cut the pipe before the Polaris inlet and insert a T heading towards the Polaris outlet with a diverter valve.

Or should I install a 3-way valve instead that heads towards the Polaris outlet. Would that suffice in controlling flow to the Polaris?
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How is your pool winterized?

Think about how each line will be blown out and air locked.
 
Hmm not entirely sure. We had used the prior company to winterize the pool as we were moving in and didn't have time to learn about the process. But I plan on taking over the pool care this summer.
 
Your replumbing needs to ensure that everything can be properly winterized.

Study it and develop a plan before beginning work.

Who will winterize the pool in the Fall?
 
I was planning on opening and winterizing the pool going forward.

From what I understand (still have to read more on the process), I would connect my air compressor to the VSP. I would have to isolate whatever returns I was trying to blow out, so if I installed a 3 way Jandy valve that would help to isolate either the underground plumbing return from the Polaris outlet return.
 
loamyroots said:
I was planning on opening and winterizing the pool going forward.

From what I understand (still have to read more on the process), I would connect my air compressor to the VSP. I would have to isolate whatever returns I was trying to blow out, so if I installed a 3 way Jandy valve that would help to isolate either the underground plumbing return from the Polaris outlet return.
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How do you airlock one pipe with a 3way?

Having individual diverters lets you blow out and air lock a pipe.
 
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Oh duh, yeah once you air lock one leg of the 3way the issue is when you go to air lock the other you lose the first, so you can't. Ok so I should install a T fitting on the pipe exiting the sand filter's output followed by 2 diverter valves. One diverter valve leading to the underground piping and the other diverter valve for the Polaris outlet. That would allow me to air lock each run.

I think this is starting to make better sense, but will definitely have to do some more reading and think about the design. Appreciate the help!
 
loamyroots said:
Oh duh, yeah once you air lock one leg of the 3way the issue is when you go to air lock the other you lose the first, so you can't. Ok so I should install a T fitting on the pipe exiting the sand filter's output followed by 2 diverter valves. One diverter valve leading to the underground piping and the other diverter valve for the Polaris outlet. That would allow me to air lock each run.

I think this is starting to make better sense, but will definitely have to do some more reading and think about the design. Appreciate the help!
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It looks like each of your pipes has a ball valve to use for winterizing. It would have been better if they were diverter valves.

But thought was given to winterizing your existing setup.
 

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