Ozone system with Auto Cover Vs Salt

[AUSpool]

I was sent this by the pool company, is it accurate?

A sales and marketing brochure. They call it a ‘cut sheet’ because there’s not enough facts to call it a fact sheet.

And on the bottom they obviously must include this by law.

* A SMALL RESIDUAL AMOUNT OF CHLORINE IS NECESSARY SO THAT SOME SANITIZER IS PRESENT WHILE THE POOL EQUIPMENT IS NOT OPERATING. THIS IS EASILY AC- COMPLISHED WITH AN IN-LINE CHLORINE TABLET FEEDER, A FLOATING CHLORINE DISPENSER OR EVEN WITH A SALT CHLORINATION SYSTEM OPERATING AT A LOW LEVEL.

After all the elaborate equipment setup you still need to use an approved sanitiser. And they try to tell you it’s simpler then a SWG.

https://www.1paramount.com/downloads/manuals/clearo3/ClearO3Installmanual.pdf

And all the other manuals to run the thing. And bear in mind that there is no actual way to measure or check for O3 output from the unit.

https://www.1paramount.com/support/download-manuals/

So, the good, the bad and the ugly.
Ozone is a very good oxidiser and sanitiser. Probably too good for domestic application. It is very corrosive, very reactive, not soluble in water and can be very dangerous. It should never be allowed in the actual pool. It does not provide any residual sanitation or oxidation and as such it is best described as a secondary sanitation system. A primary sanitiser is required ie. the chlorine from the disclaimer. So now you have two systems to control.

A good ozone system should have a reaction chamber that includes a degas mechanism to remove excess O3 before it is returned to the pool. A vent and air scrubbing system should be used to protect those around the unit from any residual O3. Ozone is very good for commercial applications where they are professionally monitored 24/7. In comparison domestic units lack the basic safety features and are set and forget until something goes wrong.

Have a look at the pic of a commercial application below and compare that to the simple venturi injector systems the domestic one uses. And pool pumps are not designed to run pressure applications such as a venturi.

 

[Vardster]

A sales and marketing brochure. They call it a ‘cut sheet’ because there’s not enough facts to call it a fact sheet.

And on the bottom they obviously must include this by law.



After all the elaborate equipment setup you still need to use an approved sanitiser. And they try to tell you it’s simpler then a SWG.

https://www.1paramount.com/downloads/manuals/clearo3/ClearO3Installmanual.pdf

And all the other manuals to run the thing. And bear in mind that there is no actual way to measure or check for O3 output from the unit.

https://www.1paramount.com/support/download-manuals/

So, the good, the bad and the ugly.
Ozone is a very good oxidiser and sanitiser. Probably too good for domestic application. It is very corrosive, very reactive, not soluble in water and can be very dangerous. It should never be allowed in the actual pool. It does not provide any residual sanitation or oxidation and as such it is best described as a secondary sanitation system. A primary sanitiser is required ie. the chlorine from the disclaimer. So now you have two systems to control.

A good ozone system should have a reaction chamber that includes a degas mechanism to remove excess O3 before it is returned to the pool. A vent and air scrubbing system should be used to protect those around the unit from any residual O3. Ozone is very good for commercial applications where they are professionally monitored 24/7. In comparison domestic units lack the basic safety features and are set and forget until something goes wrong.

Have a look at the pic of a commercial application below and compare that to the simple venturi injector systems the domestic one uses. And pool pumps are not designed to run pressure applications such as a venturi.

View attachment 591736

Thanks that is very helpful.

I'll speak to the pool company and tell them I want to change the system to a SWCG system before they install. They have installed all the pipes and tubes alreardy so hopefully it wont be a big issue.

Is it still better removing the automatic chlorinator and managing with liquid/floater and is this only needed when water temps are below c.50?

Are there certain heaters/pumps that work with salt systems?

 

[mknauss]

Is it still better removing the automatic chlorinator and managing with liquid/floater and is this only needed when water temps are below c.50?

You are better off with a floating dispenser if/when you use trichlor. Will only be needed when water temperature is too low for the SWCG to operate.

Are there certain heaters/pumps that work with salt systems?

All pool rated equipment is designed for use in pools that use a SWCG.

 

[Vardster]

You are better off with a floating dispenser if/when you use trichlor. Will only be needed when water temperature is too low for the SWCG to operate.

All pool rated equipment is designed for use in pools that use a SWCG.

What is trichlor and when will i know if i will be using it?

 

[mknauss]

Trichlor is what makes up tablets or pucks as they are sometimes called. It is a very acidic product that adds chlorine and CYA that the water as it dissolves.

You can never use it. Rear liquid chlorine if needed and granular stabilizer if CYA is needed.

 

[Newdude]

Sorry to backtrack, I'm late to the party. It's entirely true that the SWGs won't work with cold water. But what all these nay-saying folks fail to realize is you are bundled up in hoodies at the time and your daily loss plummets to nearly nothing. A couple FC added with bleach will last a week, or even weeks depending on how far you extend the season.

So yes. You'll need to add liquid chlorine when it's cool in the early/late season. But no. It's almost laughable how little of an infrequent chore it will be.

SWGs are the greatest thing since Betty White. (Older than sliced bread).

*I opened in April and it took *THREE* whole days to warm up enough for the SWG to work with water in the 40s. Three days was too many, but it was still a joke. It'll work until Nov here.

 

[AUSpool]

They have installed all the pipes and tubes alreardy so hopefully it wont be a big issue.

Is it still better removing the automatic chlorinator and managing with liquid/floater and is this only needed when water temps are below c.50?

Are there certain heaters/pumps that work with salt systems?

Just echoing what’s already been said really.

A SWCG cell takes up about a foot of pipe realestate after the heater so it shouldn’t be problem.

Yes, I wouldn’t bother with the erosion chlorinator (tablet feeder), a floater and a cup or two of liquid chlorine is easy enough when the water is cold. Although my water never gets that cold and I don’t completely close for winter.

As mknauss said, “all pool rated equipment is designed for use in pools that use a SWCG”, the larger manufacturers in the industry produce both heaters and SWCG’s.

O3 is well suited to public pools, aquariums and aquaculture. If you go out the back of aquarium displays the degass or O3 removal units are the same size as the primary reaction units because the operators know how dangerous O3 can be to the animals they keep. But in domestic pools they just inject a random amount into the return line.

Both O3 and UV produce no residual sanitation in the water body and can only ever be described as secondary systems. SWCG’s are a primary system, they do it well and are easy to manage without the need of a secondary system. Attempting to run with a low free chlorine (FC) concentration as described in the O3 brochure will lead to disaster.

Oneof the cornerstones of TFPC is understanding the FC/CyA relationship. We generally run with a target FC of around 10% of the CyA and at that level you wouldn’t know there was chlorine in the pool if you weren’t testing for it. I’ve been running my pools from the beginning at 70ppm stabaliser (CyA) and 7ppm FC for over 15 years and have never needed to shock or SLAM, and have never used any algacides, flocculants or clarifiers. A good test kit is all thats needed. And plenty of willing helpers at TFP.

What is TFPC?

We believe any pool owner can achieve and maintain safe, crystal clear pool water, by using the science-based, Trouble Free Pool Care (TFPC) methodology.

www.troublefreepool.com

The Free Chlorine and Cyanuric Acid Relationship

Swimming Pool Test Kits Compared

What pool test kit should I buy? Why shouldn't I use test strips? Our recommended test kits will pay for themselves in no time!

www.troublefreepool.com

 

[Vardster]

Just echoing what’s already been said really.

A SWCG cell takes up about a foot of pipe realestate after the heater so it shouldn’t be problem.

Yes, I wouldn’t bother with the erosion chlorinator (tablet feeder), a floater and a cup or two of liquid chlorine is easy enough when the water is cold. Although my water never gets that cold and I don’t completely close for winter.

As mknauss said, “all pool rated equipment is designed for use in pools that use a SWCG”, the larger manufacturers in the industry produce both heaters and SWCG’s.

O3 is well suited to public pools, aquariums and aquaculture. If you go out the back of aquarium displays the degass or O3 removal units are the same size as the primary reaction units because the operators know how dangerous O3 can be to the animals they keep. But in domestic pools they just inject a random amount into the return line.

Both O3 and UV produce no residual sanitation in the water body and can only ever be described as secondary systems. SWCG’s are a primary system, they do it well and are easy to manage without the need of a secondary system. Attempting to run with a low free chlorine (FC) concentration as described in the O3 brochure will lead to disaster.

Oneof the cornerstones of TFPC is understanding the FC/CyA relationship. We generally run with a target FC of around 10% of the CyA and at that level you wouldn’t know there was chlorine in the pool if you weren’t testing for it. I’ve been running my pools from the beginning at 70ppm stabaliser (CyA) and 7ppm FC for over 15 years and have never needed to shock or SLAM, and have never used any algacides, flocculants or clarifiers. A good test kit is all thats needed. And plenty of willing helpers at TFP.

What is TFPC?

We believe any pool owner can achieve and maintain safe, crystal clear pool water, by using the science-based, Trouble Free Pool Care (TFPC) methodology.

www.troublefreepool.com

The Free Chlorine and Cyanuric Acid Relationship

Swimming Pool Test Kits Compared

What pool test kit should I buy? Why shouldn't I use test strips? Our recommended test kits will pay for themselves in no time!

www.troublefreepool.com

Thanksfor you help and explanations, you have all convinced me not to go with the chloring and 02 system and have pushed back against the pool company. They are sending me a change order and I have requested the make and specs for the new equipment.

As it seems they are not pro salt, please can you advise what I would need to do from day one? I live in Canada so what is the best test kit and where do I start from scratch? I have never had a pool and I feel very out of my depth with the chemisrty, how often to test, when its safe or unsafe for the kids to swim and how to run the pool with the variable speed pump. any step by step guide/help for a novice much appreciated.