Hello! We just bought one of those Summer Waves above ground metal frame pool. It's a 16x48 and currently filling up as I type. I feel so lost as to how to get it started with chemicals. The only experience I have with water chemistry was when I kept betta fish a few years back. I'm hoping we can swim in it by Sunday but understand if that isn't possible. I'm feeling overwhelmed as I do not want to fail at maintaining it and I'm a little nervous that I am going to do something wrong. I'm looking for guidance as I require the "dummiest" version to learn things (I apologize in advance).
- May 3, 2014
- 62,694
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
Welcome to the forum!
First thing is to order a test kit. Order a TF-100
The only other real option for a test kit is a Taylor K-2006-C. Be careful comparing prices because the K-2006 comes in sizes, designated by a letter. The basic K-2006 has .75oz bottles. You need to get the K-2006-C to get the larger bottles that you want.
I also have the Speedstir. It makes testing much easier.
While you wait for the test kit. Add 3 ppm FC worth of bleach (plain, not splashless, no scent) or liquid chlorine into the pool each day. Also put 30 ppm worth of CYA into a sock. Do you have a skimmer? If so, put the sock in skimmer. Be sure it does not block water flow. Otherwise hang the sock in the water. Be sure it is not resting on the liner. Squeeze the sock every once in a while until it is dissolved.
Once you get your kit, post up the results here.
I suggest you read ABC's of Pool Water Chemistry and consider reviewing the entire Pool School eBook.
First thing is to order a test kit. Order a TF-100
The only other real option for a test kit is a Taylor K-2006-C. Be careful comparing prices because the K-2006 comes in sizes, designated by a letter. The basic K-2006 has .75oz bottles. You need to get the K-2006-C to get the larger bottles that you want.
I also have the Speedstir. It makes testing much easier.
While you wait for the test kit. Add 3 ppm FC worth of bleach (plain, not splashless, no scent) or liquid chlorine into the pool each day. Also put 30 ppm worth of CYA into a sock. Do you have a skimmer? If so, put the sock in skimmer. Be sure it does not block water flow. Otherwise hang the sock in the water. Be sure it is not resting on the liner. Squeeze the sock every once in a while until it is dissolved.
Once you get your kit, post up the results here.
I suggest you read ABC's of Pool Water Chemistry and consider reviewing the entire Pool School eBook.
Welcome! 
It's Friday now. No reason you can't be swimming Sunday. You drink the same water -- it can't be toxic!
First advice: do what Marty suggested. Order a test kit. It's an investment and will save you much grief. One trip not made to the urgent care with pinkeye or an ear infection and it's paid for. One trip to the pool store to get the water tested because it turned green will likely end up costing you more than the test kit, too.
There's a steep learning curve, and a lot of reading in Pool School. You can skip the test kit article and go straight to TFTestkits.net an dpick up a TF100. I've been using one for years now.
Now, of immediate concern. What to add? When? Those can be answered in ABCs of Pool Water Chemistry and
Recommended Pool Chemicals - Trouble Free Pool and
PoolMath - Trouble Free Pool
But here's an immediate answer to lower your anxiety a little. Get the pool filled and the pump and filter running and check for leaks. Then pour in about a quart (note the jugs are no longer a full gallon) of 6% bleach. Plain bleach. Look for the strength on the label. No strength, no buy. And avoid scented or splashless or any other improvements. That is getting hard to find in a grocery store, so you might want to check the pool section at a big box store or hardware store for pool chlorine. It'll be stronger so you'll use less. Just post and ask how much when you know what strength you have. Just dribble it into the return stream so it will disperse and mix.
In a perfect world, you would now be checking pH and making adjustments. But you don't have a test kit, so you can't. The good news is, if the water is drinkable, it's not likely to peel the skin off and nobody treats the fill water before they take a bath, right? As soon as you get a test kit, pH needs to be adjusted, because it will change over time and you run the risk of skin irritation and burning eyes.
So now there's some chlorine in the water so let the kids in. It might not be a bad idea if there's a lot of kids to add more bleach again after they get out.
Moving on.... that quart of bleach isn't going to last very long without some sun protection. Let me say this right now: you will need to add that much bleach every single day until you get a test kit. Then you can measure things and dose it accordingly. Sun protection is CYA. Cyanuric Acid. Pool Stabilizer. That's in the pool aisle at those same big box stores. Just read the label. It'll say Cyanuric Acid or Isocyanuric Acid. You want 99-100% strength. Get it home and add 2 lbs (doesn't have to be precise) by pouring it into a hole-less sock or nylon and tying it securely and hanging it off a pole or something so it gets pummeled by the return stream. It'll take a few days to dissolve.
Once you have test kit in hand, test! Then you can post a new thread and find out what needs adjusting. Once you start doing it starts to make sense. It'll feel overwhelming for a couple weeks and then suddenly you'll have the revelation that, "This is pretty easy! Why was I stressing?"
It's Friday now. No reason you can't be swimming Sunday. You drink the same water -- it can't be toxic!
First advice: do what Marty suggested. Order a test kit. It's an investment and will save you much grief. One trip not made to the urgent care with pinkeye or an ear infection and it's paid for. One trip to the pool store to get the water tested because it turned green will likely end up costing you more than the test kit, too.
There's a steep learning curve, and a lot of reading in Pool School. You can skip the test kit article and go straight to TFTestkits.net an dpick up a TF100. I've been using one for years now.
Now, of immediate concern. What to add? When? Those can be answered in ABCs of Pool Water Chemistry and
Recommended Pool Chemicals - Trouble Free Pool and
PoolMath - Trouble Free Pool
But here's an immediate answer to lower your anxiety a little. Get the pool filled and the pump and filter running and check for leaks. Then pour in about a quart (note the jugs are no longer a full gallon) of 6% bleach. Plain bleach. Look for the strength on the label. No strength, no buy. And avoid scented or splashless or any other improvements. That is getting hard to find in a grocery store, so you might want to check the pool section at a big box store or hardware store for pool chlorine. It'll be stronger so you'll use less. Just post and ask how much when you know what strength you have. Just dribble it into the return stream so it will disperse and mix.
In a perfect world, you would now be checking pH and making adjustments. But you don't have a test kit, so you can't. The good news is, if the water is drinkable, it's not likely to peel the skin off and nobody treats the fill water before they take a bath, right? As soon as you get a test kit, pH needs to be adjusted, because it will change over time and you run the risk of skin irritation and burning eyes.
So now there's some chlorine in the water so let the kids in. It might not be a bad idea if there's a lot of kids to add more bleach again after they get out.
Moving on.... that quart of bleach isn't going to last very long without some sun protection. Let me say this right now: you will need to add that much bleach every single day until you get a test kit. Then you can measure things and dose it accordingly. Sun protection is CYA. Cyanuric Acid. Pool Stabilizer. That's in the pool aisle at those same big box stores. Just read the label. It'll say Cyanuric Acid or Isocyanuric Acid. You want 99-100% strength. Get it home and add 2 lbs (doesn't have to be precise) by pouring it into a hole-less sock or nylon and tying it securely and hanging it off a pole or something so it gets pummeled by the return stream. It'll take a few days to dissolve.
Once you have test kit in hand, test! Then you can post a new thread and find out what needs adjusting. Once you start doing it starts to make sense. It'll feel overwhelming for a couple weeks and then suddenly you'll have the revelation that, "This is pretty easy! Why was I stressing?"
- Oct 25, 2015
- 5,813
- Pool Size
- 28000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-60 Plus
Elle,
Welcome to TFP! Congrats on your new pool! You've come to the perfect place. We are all pool owners like you that care for our own pools using TFP methodology. We also have experts on everything pool. You have two that are already engaging to get you going. They've done this hundreds of times for new owners and you'll find they can get you on "autopilot" in short order. The only thing I'd add to their great advice is ask any question you may have. There's no reason to worry about anything with your pool. TFP is based on some high-tech science and chemistry with the goal of making it simple to do for any pool owner. Whats even better is that we sell nothing. Unfortunately many pool stores will sell you a lot of stuff and chemicals you don't really need. Not all are this way but the problem is that you don't know which one your dealing with until it's too late. So stay here and learn the basics before you venture in to one. If you need something from them we'll be the first to tell you. And please, please don't fall prey to a "free" water test. We'll show you how to get far better test results yourself.
Oh, and one other thing. You'll see at the bottom of our posts there is information about our pool. This is called our "signature". You can add yours and it will be very helpful to our experts so they can get answers back to you without a cycle of questions about your pool. Just click on the screen name at the top right of this page then click on "signature". This will open a window that you just type in. Pool size, type and equipment models are very helpful. Then press SAVE. This information will then appear at the bottom of every future post.
I hope this is helpful.
Chris
Welcome to TFP! Congrats on your new pool! You've come to the perfect place. We are all pool owners like you that care for our own pools using TFP methodology. We also have experts on everything pool. You have two that are already engaging to get you going. They've done this hundreds of times for new owners and you'll find they can get you on "autopilot" in short order. The only thing I'd add to their great advice is ask any question you may have. There's no reason to worry about anything with your pool. TFP is based on some high-tech science and chemistry with the goal of making it simple to do for any pool owner. Whats even better is that we sell nothing. Unfortunately many pool stores will sell you a lot of stuff and chemicals you don't really need. Not all are this way but the problem is that you don't know which one your dealing with until it's too late. So stay here and learn the basics before you venture in to one. If you need something from them we'll be the first to tell you. And please, please don't fall prey to a "free" water test. We'll show you how to get far better test results yourself.
Oh, and one other thing. You'll see at the bottom of our posts there is information about our pool. This is called our "signature". You can add yours and it will be very helpful to our experts so they can get answers back to you without a cycle of questions about your pool. Just click on the screen name at the top right of this page then click on "signature". This will open a window that you just type in. Pool size, type and equipment models are very helpful. Then press SAVE. This information will then appear at the bottom of every future post.
I hope this is helpful.
Chris