Opening Vinyl Pool: First Time
- Thread starter Snoobug
- Start date
Totally fine and i think i did you dirty. I must apologize and this is the first time i've seen this go south like this, helping many and having read half a bazillion of the same. 'Fill the pump' is only until that pipe. Either everybody else gives up quietly, or they understand already, but i TOTALLY see the flaw now in the common advice. The water level at that pipe is a foot above the pool. You are filling the pool down that pipe. You can overflow the pool and water will still go down that pipe until your whole town, and maybe a chunk of Iowa is the height of the water in the basket. Filling it only to the pipe is MUCH quicker.
Yup. It will prime the rest from there and fill everything else. Again, that pump water is only to help the pump stay cool while it primes.
Bleed the filter once its flowing
Bleed the filter once its flowing
Ok so turned on the pump. Sounds fine? No water is being pushed through the return... we have the valves open... I don't know what to do...
I used a flashlight and watched it fill up and then could see the air working itself out of the returns!!!
It will have a minute or so of burping. Some violently. It becomes funny after enough openings or after filter cleanings and you'll snap at the pool to excuse itself. The boys will giggle.
Bleed the filter valve. It will hiss and then when done, water shoots out
Bleed the filter valve. It will hiss and then when done, water shoots out
What do you mean bleed the filter valve? Also I need to find & hookup the backwash hose.
There is a twisty knob by the PSI gauge on the filter. Lefty loosey opens it and releases any air in the filter. Once the air is gone, it shoots water. Close the valve and you're good.
I have no idea where you stored it. Probably the shed. If not the garage.
*also, bleeding the filter is part of your weekly equipment check. Put it on the list now that you are a pro at it.
Thats ok. Water means the air is out. You'll know if its got air. It will hiss. At low RPMs as your pump likely reduced to, its a wussy spray of water. If you jack the RPMS, it will shoot 20 ft.
Anytime sis.
. Its a little fumbly the first time, but you saved $350 (?) And it will be 20 times easier next time. The 3rd time takes an hour. 
Morning miss.
Today's project is to crank the pump up to high RPMs, let it run for a few minutes and make sure none of the unions drip.
If any do, tighten them just a hair.
If any still drip, take apart and lube the o-ring like you do now.
Putting back together is hand tight (good and snug) and turn it back on. Tighten with a wrench slooooooowly if still needed.
Buy these if you don't have a pair already : 16 inch adjustable pliers. HD/Lowes has at least one brand for $20 also. Always go gentle with them on pool equipment at they have some serious leverage to them. But if you need a bit more than hand tight, you need the 16 inch pliers to get around the union nut.
Today's project is to crank the pump up to high RPMs, let it run for a few minutes and make sure none of the unions drip.
If any do, tighten them just a hair.
If any still drip, take apart and lube the o-ring like you do now.
Putting back together is hand tight (good and snug) and turn it back on. Tighten with a wrench slooooooowly if still needed.
Buy these if you don't have a pair already : 16 inch adjustable pliers. HD/Lowes has at least one brand for $20 also. Always go gentle with them on pool equipment at they have some serious leverage to them. But if you need a bit more than hand tight, you need the 16 inch pliers to get around the union nut.
I will do that! I was looking at the dolphin manual because the pool temp is 45. And noticed that the max chlorine recommendation says 4ppm. 
What a neat read this thread has been! Well done @Newdude and @Snoobug
The owner manual is very outdated. That is the "old way" of thinking about amounts of FC. It does NOT take in account the ability of CYA to buffer the water. Now if you did not have any CYA yeah you would not want your FC much higher than 3 or 4. Now we know better due to the solid science done here on TFP. I can point you to the papers if you want to read them.
The owner manual is very outdated. That is the "old way" of thinking about amounts of FC. It does NOT take in account the ability of CYA to buffer the water. Now if you did not have any CYA yeah you would not want your FC much higher than 3 or 4. Now we know better due to the solid science done here on TFP. I can point you to the papers if you want to read them.